Which bench

S

shooterfpga

New member
photo.jpg


Home depot bench

13xCdZK.jpg


Harbor freight bench


Seems more people are using the more expensive hf bench. I like that it has a vice to be able to make a fixture that clamps to it to hold the press.

May get one of these inline fab mounts to raise it up and use the drawers on the right side

b2968ea7478351d15a42802803978af5_2bvc_large.png



Keep in mind nothing can be permanently affixed and i dont have power tools nor am i gonna spend for some. Otherwise id build the nrma bench but smaller.
 
I built mine but it's very similar to the top one - I don't feel like drawers below the surface would be very convenient for me as I keep 2 SS presses mounted at the front. I bought some small wood cubbies that go along the back against the wall to store bullet boxes, tools, etc and stack my die boxes on top.
 
I got the beefiest office desk i could find at a thrift store and braced it with 2x4s where i would mount the press. Cost me a grand total of about $10 and it had 2 drawers and a hutch for storage
 
I built the Lee Valley modern woodworking bench plans 31 years ago and built a 400 pound bench from rock hard Maple. No wheels.

From Boeing surplus I got a 400 pound elevator bench made from 3/8" plate steel for metalworking. Wheels that latch.


attachment.php

I handload on a 10 pound typewriter bench I found in one of my buildings. Wheels that latch.
The 0.251" to 0.500" pin gauge set sitting on it is heavy and acts as ballast.

pic above same as link below
 

Attachments

  • reloading deskside with typewriter bench 4-13-2015.jpg
    reloading deskside with typewriter bench 4-13-2015.jpg
    107.4 KB · Views: 462
Build your own to your specifications. You can find a multitude of plans and demos on the web. I built mine 2 years ago for $100. You don't have tools and don't want to buy? Borrow or rent them.

Bench #2 is nice looking but far too cluttered for me. You are going to want shelving next to or in the immediate proximity of the bench. (you'll grow into it) It's best to work with an empty area when possible. I don't want anything falling over while I'm working or anything for that matter that takes away the focus from what you should be working on.

As far as the in-line fabrication riser, like it. I've been talking to the owner in the last few weeks and may order one next week. I don't know if it provides more leverage, but I do wish to raise my 3-hole press a bit higher than the current bench level. Good choice.

There are more than a few threads for "show me your bench" on TFL that you can drool over and they will give you good ideas of what is possible and might work for you.

Have fun. Good luck.
 
You might want to think about what I did since I wanted access to the drawers. I took a piece of 2 by 6 about a foot and a half long and mounted the press on it. When I want to reload, I mount the board & press on the bench with two harbor freight "C" clamps. Works great and I can easily remove it to access the drawer or use the space to work on other stuff.
 
The Inline riser stand is worth getting. I made mine from Gorilla racking halves laid out side by side. Standard piece of kitchen formica counter top with some plywood glued and screwed underneath (HD or Lowes or similar will cut the wood for you) so the only tools you's need would be a rubber mallet for banging the shelving nice and tight and a screw driver (or battery drill) to fasten the wood to the top and the entire top to the racking. No drawers, but shelves you can make any height necessary and you'll have a bench 8' long and strong enough to stand on.
 
I have the Harbor Freight bench. Originally I mounted it to plywood that I clamped in the wood vice so I could access the drawers. Recently I bought a case feeder which requires a more solid mount, especially since my press was starting to rotate to the right a little because the right hand bolt was eating into the plywood. Since I never used the vice anyway, I mounted it directly to the top. To do this you must remove the vice because there is only one place to mount it and still get the drawers hope. I had to use a 4" lag screw on the left and a regular bolt on the right. The lag screw was necessary because the spot was right over the cross piece for the legs.

I'm much happier with the more solid mount. I've also found that case feeders take a lot of tweaking to work consistently. I'm considering building a bigger bench, though.
 
Consider the Kreg.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c42/...44-universal-bench-with-standard-height-legs/

You will require a top and shelf but you can get Lowe's or Home Depot to cut them to size for free. The rest is simply a matter of bolting the legs together and screwing the top and shelf on.

For the top on mine, I used 3/4" birch plywood doubled (one sheet glued to another). I also used birch ply for the shelf.

When done, this bench is rock solid and an added benefit is the legs are height adjustable.

 
Last edited:
hanno said:
Consider the Kreg.

https://www.kregtool.com/store...tandard-height-legs/

You will require a top and shelf but you can get Lowe's or Home Depot to cut them to size for free. The rest is simply a matter of bolting the legs together and screwing the top and shelf on.

For the top on mine, I used 3/4" birch plywood doubled (one sheet glued to another). I also used birch ply for the shelf.

When done, this bench is rock solid and an added benefit is the legs are height adjustable.

Click to expand...
Wow! Thats nice and clean and i like that its adjustable. It looks like the shelves are adjustable as well? Did you have any issues mounting a press since thr braces are metal I figure a 2" overlap past the metal lip should fix that?
 
Last edited:
Shelf isn't adjustable. I do have a 2" overhang on front and back. My press is bolted to a RCBS Bench Plate 2 which is screwed into the top.

I have been very happy with this bench. It is not bolted to the floor or wall but a couple ammo cans full of bullets on the bottom shelf make it rock sold.
 
Hanno,
Out of curiosity the link isn't working for me, do you have the deminsions of your table? Looks like a nice setup!
 
Top one has no clearance for the handle. Could be modified easily though. Benches you buy on price and fix 'em.
1400 x 933 is far too large a picture.
 
You guys are SUPER clean and organized.

Puts my little home made bench to shame!

I wanted a TALL TOP so I didn't have to hump over when working,
I wanted a under top brace under the big press,
I wanted an inset press so it wasn't a hip buster,
I wanted room under for a roll around cart with supplies,
I wanted fairly large cans under for cleaned, prepped cases,



I wanted some dedicated storage for the turret mounted dies, and a dedicated place for the case gauges, shell holders, ect that kept them with the dies.



The shelf with turrets hinges down to save room, protect dies, and brass pins hold case gauges/shell holders so they don't roll off.

Keeps things together and protected.



8 sq.ft. Of Fun On A Bun!
2 sheets of 3/4" plywood,
1 ea. 2"x4"x8' ripped long ways for corner braces,
2"x4" cut in half for top supports,
1 ea. 1"x6" & 1"x8" pine for shelves...
Couple little latches & hinges for the tilt down shelf,
1/4" brass rod for no scratch pins (case gauges & shell holders),

The only non common tool I had to buy was a precise 3" hole saw for the turret holders.

With the back/sides screwed into corner blocks its solid as a rock.
 
Last edited:
I have four of the HF benches in my shop....even as a Carpenter, I can't build them for the cost of materials alone for the $140 they cost- much less my time...

That said, I'd never use one for my reloading bench. Just not heavy enough- they have little lateral support- and will vibrate/shake/move too much for a reloading bench in my opinion.

The bane of a powder meter is shaking and vibration. Been there, and done that with my Hornady LNL AP. If your bench/table isn't ROCK SOLID, the powder meter will shake when you run the ram and accurate metering (because it's volume- vibration settles the contents of the meter and throws vary widely) goes out the window.

I built mine- including 3/4" ply PLUS 1/2" ply PLUS a 1/2" aluminum backing plate under the press. Even if a case sticks a tiny bit, that powder measure doesn't move one teeny tiny bit...

Natch, if using an electronic scale/dispenser and not a progressive press with a meter, the "solidness" of the bench becomes largely moot.
 
Well after a long uneventful day i found out my local HF doesnt stock those and my HD has 6 of their style benches. After looking at em in person they seem flimsy but im not sure if thats because most of them were damaged from being used as a cutting board/storage.

I was going to use the simpson strong tie kit but finally settled on a kit called the "2x4basics"

The reason for using a kit is because of how well they secure and align the frame since i dont trust myself making a secure bench without a cheater joist/elbow whatever bracket.

My HD and lowes have limited lumber stock as well so now im browsing their sites and seeing what they actually stock. Prime candidate for a top right now is a 32"x80" solid core door 1.75" thick.
 
For the $160 + mounting supplies that you'd spend on the HF bench (and still have issues mounting the IF mount, if you don't have a drill)....


You could buy a circular saw, cordless drill, and drill bits; and visit your local ReStore to pick up a solid-core door, hardware, and the lumber necessary to build a basic bench to your specifications. (ReStore is a building materials "thrift shop" run by Habitat for Humanity. Find your closest location here.)

Or, instead of visiting ReStore, you could talk to your local lumber yard or door shop, to see what price they ask for dunnage doors. Most places charge just $5. ...Because, otherwise, they have to pay to dispose of them, since dunnage doors can't really be cut up to be repurposed for anything in a lumber yard. And, of course, that's a perfect time to ask them about their other dunnage, to see what they have that would work for a bench.

I have two and a half benches made from solid core doors, damaged door jambs, and dunnage wood (pallet "stickers"). (Two complete benches, one spare door, and enough dunnage wood and damaged jambs to make a third bench.)
Total cost, for everything, was under $50 -- or $16.67 per bench. ...And that includes adjustable feet for the legs, screws for assembly, and $10 for each bench ($5 for the door and $5 for the wood).

...And this ain't no yellow pine. These benches, aside from the door slab, are made from Oak, Cherry, Maple, and Knotty Alder. ...Because that's what the door shop uses for their jambs, and where their dunnage wood comes from. ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top