which ammo to get!-mauser-help

J

JosephBoeckner

Moderator
so many different ammos lol

1. FN 8mm Mauser Ammo-FMJ- 400 for 49.95

2.YUGOSLAVIAN 8mm military ball, early 1950's production, but very good shooting fodder-(shooting fodder means what?)-300 rounds for 35 dollars

3.TURKISH 8mm military 154gr. ball, 1940's production, C/BE. Very good-looking brass-cased ammo on 5-round brass Mauser stripper-clips, recently removed from intact sealed cases and guaranteed to fire and be consistent.-350 rounds for 40 dollars

4.8mm MAUSER FULL METAL JACKET MANUFACTURED IN 1954 ON STRIPPER CLIPS MADE IN ECUADOR-500 rounds for 59 dollars

please help and other websites are wanted if they have sales or good deals-thanks-i have ammoman...classic...empire arms... etc
 
I bought it S&B 196gr 8mm mauser at the last gunshow for 400 for $200, non-corrosive of course, seems best what I heard accracy wise,
Just carefully determine if your mauser rifle is designed for 198 gr ammo or 154 gr ammo or some odd ball turkish, and buy ammo accordingly,
 
...

how would i determine that?-just from experience-and i have seen some cheap corossive stuff at tennesseeguns.com and i dont think i wanna mess with that
 
Hi, Joseph,

All the ammo you mentioned is corrosive primed. The Sellier & Bellot is about the only non-corrosive 8mm around, and it is good ammo, made to German GI specs.

All the milsurp ammo is GI accurate, which means 4-6 inches at 100 yards if the rifle is any good.

If you don't mind (a lot of) cleaning, you can try the cheapest, but note that some of the cheap ammo (Turkish in particular) has had hangfires, so don't open the bolt too quickly on a dud.

Note on corrosive primers and advertising. If the ammo is non-corrosive, the seller will say so, and most of the time they are telling the truth. And some sellers will be honest and say it is corrosive. Some will say C/BE, which is shorthand for corrosive/Berdan. But there are the sneaky guys who will not mention the primer compound, but will use somewhat misleading terms like "clean", "surefire", "bright", "shiny", "sealed cans", "non-mercuric", etc. None of these mean non-corrosive.

Jim
 
JB: First, you can check the twist of the rifling in your barrel by using a snug patch on your cleaning rod. You want to know the number of inches of travel down the barrel for one full revolution of the rod.

If it works out to around one turn in ten or eleven inches, stay with the lighter bullets. If it works out to around one turn in nine or so inches, you can shoot the heavier bullets as well as the lighter ones. ("Can" meaning reasonable accuracy.)

For more info on the subject, try http://www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/Lobby/1221/grn_hill.htm

Hope this helps,

Art
 
or you can post your mauser's detailed model number or something, then I can look it up from my mauser book by Olsen
 
ok

i havent gotten my rifle yet and havent gotten my cleaning supplies and was wondering where i can buy stuff tahts quality or if someone else has some-i'd rather pay a few extra $ than to buy it several times from wal mart-thanks
 
JB, if you shoot corrosive ammo, ya wanna clean the bore before you put yourself to bed. No rush at the range, though.

Remove the bolt. Hold the rifle with its muzzle down in a coffee can of hot, soapy water. Use the cleaning rod with a snug patch as a pump, and run it up and down a few times. Then, repeat with clean hot water. Then oil it and forget it. If you're worried about the water, run a patch down the barrel with a liberal spray of WD 40 on it; follow with a dry patch; then an oily patch.

Gun oil is good--and convenient, in spray cans--but almost any thin oil will work. (I think my father is still using 3 In 1, since around 1918! Well, he got his first shotgun at age 9...) But I use gun oil of one sort or another, depending.

:), Art
 
ok

so its ok to shoot corrosive but just make sure i clean it-it wont damage at all if i clean it thouroghly?-i'll probbaly need to have my uncle teach me how to do it properly and the works-thanks bye-i go to the range about every 2-3 weeks so its not like i would be cleaning it every week :)-thanks for the info art-again-been a help-thanks bye
 
8mm Ammo

So far I've had good luck with the Turkish ammo in my 1938 Turk mausers. No misfires and it has pretty good accuracy. Century Arms always has this on special for $65 for 1050 rounds with free shipping.
When it comes to cleaning the rifles after shooting corrosive ammo, as soon as I get home from the range I spray the barrel with an ammonia/water mixture. 1 part ammonia and 2 parts water. After the ammonia/water mixture I clean and oil the barrel as I would with any other type of ammo and check it a day or two later.
 
Other Choices

Try Norma's 8mm JS "Alaska" loads. They're good for hunting, and much more powerful than the domestic stuff.

http://www.norma.cc/htm_files/framp1e.htm

Also, I've found some good non-corrosive Czech stuff by Lellier and Bellot. They don't seem to have a website, but their boxes are a distinctive lime green.
 
Also, I've found some good non-corrosive Czech stuff by Lellier and Bellot. They don't seem to have a website, but their boxes are a distinctive lime green.
Click to expand...

www.sellier-bellot.cz and www.sb-usa.com

As for corrosive ammo, as mentioned already, it's not a big deal to clean up especially in a bolt action rifle. Corrosive ammo is going to be prevalent for just about any military surplus rifle.
 
I think you will find that the 8mm has about a 1-9 twist as issue standard and they shoot the 150 tru 300gr slugs just fine. The 125 will be iffy but most will shoot them about as well as GI ammo. The turk ammo tends to have brittle brass in a lot of cases and tends to misfire a lot,basic junk. S&B or Norma is the best stuff if you do not mind the price. The main problem I have seen is a major differance in elevation between the differant weight slugs. It really seems to make a big differance in the 8x57.
 
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