Where can I get a short trigger for my Kimber "custom"?

I like STI's polycarbonate & titanium unit (partially because it's fun to say "polycarbonate & titanium". ;) ). It's available in short & long flavors.

Available here. :cool:
 
Greg Bell

You might find a short "Videki" from one of the well known
custom shops, think Cylinder & Slide stocks them, probably
Ed Brown, last one I tracked down was at EGW.
 
Greg Bell

Install , hard ? no , time consuming yes.


Check your new replacement part, ensure the trigger bow
and shoe are square and parallel to each other, and that
the bow is securely staked to the shoe.

If over travel screw is installed back out until screw is flush
with rear of trigger shoe, you "must" loctite this screw
befor final fitting adjustment.

Detail strip the frame internals, check trigger track for burrs
where the trigger bow will contact the frame, clean the
sides of trigger shoe tunnel with a small file to prevent
the new trigger being scratched.

Test fit the new trigger, an oversize trigger like "Videki'
will need to be clearanced at the top and bottom of the
shoe, aprx .003 top and bottom.

I set mine up on the mill and take a light cut .003
off the bottom then test fit- .003 off the top -test fit
expecting zero clearance fit "no " movement up or down.

You can do the same with a hand file - cut a little test
cut a little test. Useally never more than .005 per surface.

Once the trigger slips into place freely no bind no drag,
we continue new part prep.

Use a small coarse file to cut light edge chamfers along
the top and bottom of the trigger shoe.

Then a small round or flat needle file to clearance chamfer
the bottom inside edges of the trigger bow-clear the
sides of the bow and polish to ensure mag clearance.

No sharp edges to catch the mag as you slam it home.

You may also cut a sear spring clearance at the rear
of the trigger bow, chamfer the rear lower edge of the bow
cutting flat 90 to the existing angle aprx .050 wide.
ensures the trigger will not pick up the sear spring
only the disconnector.

Clean and degrease your new preped reday to install
trigger, test fit trigger- install trigger-mag release-
trigger should drop freely into frame with no up -down
movement at front of shoe tunnel, and have a min. .100
travel past the rear of the frame-rear bow when pushed
aginst the mag release. now test fit the grip safety
pull trigger forward grip safety should pivot freely past
rear of bow-push grip safety in-observe trigger clearance
as you push trigger rearward-note any contact to grip safety
top of trigger bow clearance and gross rear travel of trigger.

you may have to clearance the leg of the grip safety.


Remove test assy parts- apply blu loctite to trigger
overtravel screw. assemble weapon lube internals -" do not dry fire " yet.

Cycle slide-cock hammer-hold hammer back w-two fingers
of my left hand-pull trigger-slowly roll hammer forward with
trigger held to rear- note "no hammer sear contact"
ok good now when I dry fire the hammer wont beat the sear
to death because my new trigger dosent move the sear far
enough away from the hammer. Now adjust the overtravel
screw- a littel at a time-each time you must check that the
trigger travels far enough to fully clear the sear away from
the hammer. Or you can crank the overtravel screw in
until the hammer wont release and the back it out until
it fully clears the sear.

" this applies to Steel bow oversize Videki Triggers"
" 70 series fire control components only"

wow did I really type all that. anyway your local smith
will prob install your new trigger for 20.00 30.00 bucks.


Best JB
 
Of course, you can run into the opposite problem:

I bought a Chip McCormick "drop in" trigger to put in my V-10. Nice little unit; adjustable for takeup and overtravel. Only problem was the "drop in" fit.

You could "drop in" the trigger from across the room, there was so much play in it. :(
 
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