What's the most scratch/dent resistant finish for a wood stock/forend?

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Hank15

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What's the most scratch/dent resistant finish for a wood stock/forend?

I spent a little more than I expected on my Remington, and now I really don't want it to scratch.

It already came with a high gloss finish, but after a few trips to the range, the stock is already showing random dents and scratches :(.

Anyone know a more scratch/dent resistant finish than gloss?

Thanks in advance guys.
 
Remington was famous for its "bowling ball" finishes. They look beautiful but aren't user-repairable if they get scratched.

You could always buy a synthetic stock.
 
If you're that worried about getting a couple little scratches on your new tool, then put it in your safe and never take it out.
 
A friend just had his Merkel refinished. The 'smith used a sort of flexible polymer - his sample reminded me of those flexible rubber non-slip feet you put under a cutting board. Applies many coats to build it up, gave it a gorgeous sheen - AND it is supposed to absorb those minor dings and "bounce back" with no tell-tale signs. I would check around with some of the smiths in your area. Doug Tate at Anglo-American (Commanche Hills Sporting Clays) was trained at Purdey

http://www.angloamericansport.com/home.shtml

You could also try some of the clubs if you do not know any smiths in your area
 
Thanks for the input guys :D.

I just want to keep it in immaculate condition while shooting the crap out of it (I know, that's a contradiction).

Buy hoytinak is correct, I guess I'll enjoy its performance now and refinish it later.

Questions for oneounceload and Doyle though: Which gunsmith did your friend send his Merkel too? And if I get more scratches and dents, would I be able to have a gunsmith refinish/repair it?
 
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My father used a matte or semi gloss polyurethane stair finish on my Marlin. It seems to be a very durable finish...
Brent
 
The most scratch/dent resistance stock I think is an oil rubbed finish. You can't get the high sheen of a poly or varnish,but it can look very nice & clean. Most dents can be pulled out with an iron & a damp towel.
 
My friend used a guy named Ron Fisher at Silver Dollar Trap Club near Tampa. I have no dealings with him, just going by the finish and how my friend seemed to really like the outcome. (It DOES look like new). Even if that is too far, you might be able to get in touch and have him give you the name of that finish he applied
 
Don't know a thing about the finish oneounceload mentions... it sounds great if it performs as advertised.

But short of that, the key word here is "repairable," not "resistant." No finish I'm aware of will resist an impact that's strong enough to dent hardwood. Some will flex rather than crack, but they're not designed to protect the wood from that kind of blow... A glossy film finish will show scratches worse than a satin finish. And film (varnish-type) finishes generally can't be repaired very easily.

An oil finish, on the other hand, can be easily repaired with a light scuffing and more oil, and as Jeremiah/Az notes, dents can be steamed out...

Just think of it as maintenance. Which is fun, right? :D
 
Your enemy is gun racks and voice calls - and maybe 5 stand or sporting clays cages .... Like others advised ..

Most easily repaired / but least protection for moisture, dents, etc - is oil.

Most difficult to repair / best protection - is any Varnish ( like Verathane, etc).

Commercial products are confusing: Watco's Danish Oil Finish ( isn't oil, its a varnish, it builds - but slowly). But its pretty easy to repair.

When I refinish one of my Brownings high gloss finish - I use a product called " Pro Custom Oil" from Brownells - it has some oil in it / but its a varnish. Its a harder, more durable version, of Danish Oil Finish.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5531/Product/PRO_CUSTOM_OIL_GUNSTOCK_FINISH
 
I've done a couple of total refinish jobs on stocks but both were for working "field guns" not show pieces. I used Minwax brand Tung Oil finish - which probably has no actual tung oil in it and is really a wiping varnish. It builds up good in 4 or 5 coats and is easily reparable.
 
Most scratch/dent resistant finish is Acraglas, penetrates the wood and sets up hard.
Oil finish is easy to repair, looks good for a while.
 
Saw my friend with the Merkel today - he told me it is a DuPont polyurethane formula that the smith applied - over 10 coats and hand rubbed in between each - looks great
 
Conversion Varnish

I'm in the wood business. The most durable finish I know of is Conversion Varnish. It has to be sprayed on. Not to hard to apply if you know what your doing but I wouldn't recomend an amature try it. A local cabinet shop or finish guy might be able to spray it for you. If you chose a high gloss it will be that bowling ball like finish.
 
I bought a stock and forend of wood with no finish. I sand it and applied high gloss lacquer for teak in saltwater/boat enviroment. The more coats, the deeper the gloss and more resistant. Once done, repeat as necessary and keep the original ones stored.
 
Wow, if I knew there were so many options, I would have made a poll :eek:.

My brother's gun (an old Ithaca 37 20 gauge) actually shows age and minor wear. It looks rather abused when sitting next to my 870...so I guess I'll refinish his gun first.

I'll do more research on the finishes mentioned here and then refinish his gun.

Thank you all for the advice, and expect some pictures soon :).
 
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