Whats the difference in these Rems?

G

GolfGuy

New member
Well, the search continues for a SS Remington w/ target sights. Dixe Gun Works has them but my question is why is the target model $100 LESS? They're both Uberti's and both stainless???

See the links to see the ads.

Link to Standard sight SS Rem 1858- price $350

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_92_187_189&products_id=1042

Link to Target Sight SS Rem 1858- Price $250

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_92_187_189&products_id=4057

Am I missing something here? Or is just a really good deal?

I made the mistake of ordering the one from Taylors without making sure what I was ordering and it bit me in the butt so I want to make sure I know what the heck I'm ordering this time.

I know I can call them tomorrow and ask them but I thought I'd see is anyone here knows the answer.
 
They must not be moving that much merchandise in the Target sights model. Honestly that would be my guess, since I would think normal pistols sell better than oddballs with oddball sights.
 
Call Dixie and ask to speak with Jamie,..he's the guy who deals with all the technical, gunsmithing related issues at Dixie. Ask him about this and see what he says. I've noticed that they can have two categories for the same product,...the cheaper one always has some flaws, but they're hesitant to actually admit that. I would question whether it really IS a good deal. They had two versions of the "Shooter's Remington". I didn't know it at the time I bought mine when it was "on sale" for $350, in one of their mailings.. One of the "flaws" to watch out for is the misalignment of cylinder to bore. Take your time, ask questions, and compare prices, and terms of different suppliers. I know how it is when you "really gotta have one", but I would encourage you to resist that compulsion, take your time and investigate the item before you buy,.....just like you're doin,.....it's real good to ask others what their experiences have been with it. Good luck :)
 
Well, just my luck, Jamie is off all week. The lady I talked to said it shouldn't have any flaws, they only sell 'new' guns yada yada yada. I asked if someone could possibly check the cylinder bore alignment prior to shipping and she said they don't do that, if I'm not completely satisfied that I can return it, yada yada yada.

Well, I guess I'll take my chances with it and see how it is when it gets here.

Oldelm- You're right, patience is not one of my virtures, but I'm also a stickler for details, I can live with minor cosmetic blemishes but the cyl/bore alignment is a big one that I can't live with, I'm really glad you told me about that. Hopefully this one will be aligned and I won't have to return it.
 
GG,
My suggestion: Wait this week and call next week and talk to Jamie. I have heard of one gun that came from them that was off and rusted in the bore, they were discontinuing the model. Was that one Your's Oldelm?
 
OD,.....yep, that was me. It was the Shooter's Rem. I bought. They said they were discontunuing it and it was onsale for $350. (They usually sell for around $600.) The rust in the bore was only light surface rust which came off quickly with a bore brush, but the cyl. to bore misalignment is something I couldn't live with in a Shooter's Rem, so I sent it back, but first talked with Jamie, and made sure he knew what I meant & how to check it with a flashlight. He said he did and agreed to exchange it with one with good cyl./bore alignment. I talked with him again after he'd shipped the second one, and he said he had a hard time finding one with good alignment. Well,....I also found out around that time ( I think it was Wayner told me) that they offered TWO versions of the Shooter's Rem (Pietta), and the $350. one was the cheapest,...sooooooooo,... I concluded, correctly or not, that the $350. ones all had blems or flaws,...and that they were trying to sell them with a discontinuing "sale". They're still selling the Shooter's Rem., and for two prices.....but they're not calling the cheaper one a "Shooter's Rem" anymore.........hehe

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_92_187_189&products_id=3533&osCsid=9a228882dab003e0d2cfa02d72b2a076


http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_92_187_189&products_id=4098&osCsid=9a228882dab003e0d2cfa02d72b2a076

Anyway,.....I'm happy to have been able to end up with a Shooters Rem with progressive rifling and all, with good cyl./bore alignment for that price. The bluing is superb. I have yet to shoot it,.....yea, I know:rolleyes: ,......but I've really been having fun with my Howell Rem. conversion in .44-40.

sxcb9e.jpg
 
Yepper that is one fine 44-40! I like it...almost as well as my 44 Remington Cartridge conversions. It's real pretty.
never thought I'd like a Nickled one, but my last original Rem conversion was nickled at time of conversion at the factore and I then realized that they did that for frontier service. Wonder waht it would cost to nickle one now??
 
Wait a week to ask a question? Do you realize what you're asking? I'm Mr. Impatient! Not always impulsive, but definitely impatient! :D

I can have the gun here and determine for myself if it is one that I want to keep before he gets back. She said if I'm not completley satisfied I can return, which seems to becoming a habit.

The description of that gun is from Jan. 2003, so these might be older guns that they are trying to get rid of.

I am kind of expecting some blems and flaws with such a low price but if it's like your Shooters Rem, Oldelm, light rust in the bore is not a huge issue, but the cylinder/bore aligniment is, I guess. It's odd that you said he had trouble finding one with good alginment, that seems odd to me for some reason, it must be a common flaw. Maybe it doesn't affect performance all that much, but I can't see it NOT affecting it, it would have to have some effect and not a positive one at that.

Well, I'm keeping my fingers crossed. :)
 
Golf Guy,....sounds like your strategy is ok,...what the heck, whatever you get from Dixie, you can always return & exchange for another,....and everyone you get, if not just temporarily, will give you a better chance to look these Rems over up close,.... for comparative knowledge. I find that every gun has its own subtle distinctions, one from another, right down to the way the action feels,.....some things are easier to change or fine tune,...others are not. You might want to slug the barrel, too,....to find out the groove dia.,...and measure the chambers. Ideally , it's nice to have the bore and chambers measure about the same, or chambers .001 over groove dia.. But that's just my feelings based on what I've read , and the theory behind it....I'm still workin on the experience thing,.....hehe,..so I try to keep track of chamber to bore size as part of observing why one gun , aside from load data,...will shoot better than another. ;)

Old Dragoon,

............yea, the Nickel Plating is growing on me and the more I handle, shoot, and clean the Howell Rem., the more I like it. It certainly doesn't replace my love for a nice mellow old looking blued finish, or an antiqued one,...but just adds to my range of "likes" of finishes. But it's really the gun itself I connect with,...and the gun wears this "coat" which adds to the charactor and feel of it. When I'd first purchased it,...I went out and picked up a chemical powder formula to "de-plate" it,...I was going to re-blue it in an antique finish like your Gunslinger, but with more brown/bluing left intact. That nickel plating is so regal and "liquid looking",..... real easy to clean & maintain,....I ended up just de-plating the brass trigger guard and will live with as Nickel for awhile at least. Also made the cherry grips for it. I would think the Nickel Plating would cost a bit more than a good blueing, but I might be wrong. Wish I knew a way to "de-gloss" the Nickel,...have it slightly matt,...:)
 
You might try soaking it in Lemon Juice and or Lime juice over night or longer, that tarnishes brass, I don't know what tarnishes Nickel, but it might be worth a shot. The lemon or lime juice will not affect the steel in the bore, but you can plug the bbl. with wax or?? as a precaution.

Call R & D, Kenny might be able to tell you how to age the nickel.

I really would hate to see you use 600 grit or finer on it though. Just a good aging/tarnishing material.
 
Well, the new Uberti w/target sights arrived today and I got really lucky. The gun is in great shape and has perfect cyl/bore alignment except for just a fraction of hair of a cresent at the bottom, not enough for me to worry about.

Interestingly, this Uberti had been fired too but cleaned up like new. The date stamp is BU, (according to mec's very informative book), that is a manufacture date of 2004, so I guess the close out pricing was just that, them trying to move older stock.

So I finally got exactly what I wanted and saved over $100 bucks, can't beat that with a stick!

One thing about this one though is the hand protrudes slightly even when the hammer is all the way up, it makes getting the cylinder in and out a little tricky but I'll get used to it.

So I'm definitely heading to the range to fire this baby this weekend. I can't wait!
 
Golf Guy,.....glad to hear you got a good one! That must be a relief.:)

One thing about this one though is the hand protrudes slightly even when the hammer is all the way up, it makes getting the cylinder in and out a little tricky but I'll get used to it.
Click to expand...

As you put the cylinder back in on the right side of the frame ( while at half-cock), rotate it clockwise while it's goin in,....that'll help push the hand back out of the way and you should find it easier to put the cylinder in.

Have fun at the range!:D
 
Thanks Oldelm, nice trick, that does help. Getting it out is a little tricky too, the other two that I had would pretty much just fall out as soon as I pulled the hammer back ever so slightly.

I'm afraid that I'm going to wear the hand out faster on this one. Is it better to take it out at half-cock or just slightly cocked. The hand seems to 'give' more at half cock, but more of it is protruded. I want to cause as little undue wear as possible to the hand.
 
My preference is to put it in half cock when changing out the cyl. That way I know the bolt's down and it won't be scratching the cyl., and without having my thumb trying to keep the hammer back slightly,...all my grip & movement can focus on manipulating the cyl. in it's path in or out of the frame. Once you start shooting it,....I suspect the hand spring will ease a bit and things will begin to move smoother as the moving parts get to know each other. You can also take a hard stone and gently smooth over any machining burrs on the critical areas such as the top & edges of the bolt, .....same with the hand. Some folks have posted here about the details of that. I think Remington Kid and Old Dragoon have posted tips about their tuning methods , with good details about it. Check the old posts here.
 
Thanks Oldelm, it's already getting smoother. When putting it in once I inadvertantly put it in too far and the hand popped into the cylinder pin hole, that took a little finesse to get out, but no harm done.

Also, I was right about the target sights adding extra weight at the end of the barrel. This gun weighs a full ounce heavier than the standard sight model and I suspect it is the large chunk of stainless sitting right on the end of the barrel.

It doesn't bother me that much but the standard sight model is definitely balanced better, which is kinda ironic, I should be able to aim better with this one but I can't hold it as still so its probably a wash. Eh, live and learn. :)
 
Whoa! My old heart just did a flip when you said the hand slipped into the cylinder Pin hole. I thought "How in the Heck could that happen. Course I was thingking cylinder pin hole in the FRAME! you meant the hole in the cylinder. Sorry it's been a long wet week cept for yesterday and today.
Glad you got a good one today!
 
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