What's best to clean a stainless model 625?
- Thread starter dentodoc
- Start date
Sir William
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Flitz! www.flitz.com
Dfariswheel
New member
By far and away the easiest and least risky method is to buy one of the "Lead-Away" type cloths at your gun store.
These are a waxy feeling yellow cloth that is designed to clean lead and carbon off stainless steel guns.
This cloth clean the cylinder VERY fast, and do so without any damage.
DO NOT use these on blued guns. They will also strip bluing right off.
These are a waxy feeling yellow cloth that is designed to clean lead and carbon off stainless steel guns.
This cloth clean the cylinder VERY fast, and do so without any damage.
DO NOT use these on blued guns. They will also strip bluing right off.
Complete Neophyte
Inactive
Not wanting to hijack a thread but I have a related question. It refers to the plate of the frame which contains the firing pin. I'm not sure what the technical name is for it but I mean the plate which you are looking at when you look straight down the muzzle when the cylinder is open. (incidentally the range instructor today passed on a good tip to me - when running a cleaning rod and bore brush down through the barrel, cover the firing pin with something to avoid banging against it with the end of the rod - I used my toothbrush handle).
Anyway back to this plate, It looks dull after only two range sessions and about 250 rds total. I didn't take notice whether it had a dull finish or a bright finish when brand new so this may be normal. anyway it isn't black like the cylinder face was but it's kind of grey and solvent seems not to move it. Should I scrub this area? Use a miracle cloth? I don't really feel happy scrubbing away around the firing pin but that may be newbie nerves. Then again I don't want to do more than I should.
What exactly is the thing to do with this surface? And on a related note I am already seeing a bright "scrape mark" on the ramp to the left of this frame where the end of the extractor rod abrades the surface when I'm closing the cylinder. Given that I've probably only opened the cylinder 60-70 times total this is also making me wonder if I'm doing something wrong. I carefully cleaned with solvent and wiped both the reverse surface of the "star" and the surface of the cylinder where it sits so I don't THINK it's protuding more than it should. Normal? DFU error?
Anyway back to this plate, It looks dull after only two range sessions and about 250 rds total. I didn't take notice whether it had a dull finish or a bright finish when brand new so this may be normal. anyway it isn't black like the cylinder face was but it's kind of grey and solvent seems not to move it. Should I scrub this area? Use a miracle cloth? I don't really feel happy scrubbing away around the firing pin but that may be newbie nerves. Then again I don't want to do more than I should.
What exactly is the thing to do with this surface? And on a related note I am already seeing a bright "scrape mark" on the ramp to the left of this frame where the end of the extractor rod abrades the surface when I'm closing the cylinder. Given that I've probably only opened the cylinder 60-70 times total this is also making me wonder if I'm doing something wrong. I carefully cleaned with solvent and wiped both the reverse surface of the "star" and the surface of the cylinder where it sits so I don't THINK it's protuding more than it should. Normal? DFU error?
Dfariswheel
New member
The recoil shield, or breech face is not polished. It will have a dull finish.
The area should be cleaned with a bit of solvent on a patch or tooth brush to remove any fouling.
The only place fouling tends to collect in his area is at the very top of the recoil shield where it joins the top strap.
Carbon will often collect in the "corner" here, and should be brushed away.
The shiny "scrape" mark is totally normal.
It's just the latching pin in the rear of the cylinder polishing a line on the frame.
All S&W revolvers develop the mark with usage.
The area should be cleaned with a bit of solvent on a patch or tooth brush to remove any fouling.
The only place fouling tends to collect in his area is at the very top of the recoil shield where it joins the top strap.
Carbon will often collect in the "corner" here, and should be brushed away.
The shiny "scrape" mark is totally normal.
It's just the latching pin in the rear of the cylinder polishing a line on the frame.
All S&W revolvers develop the mark with usage.