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What would you do
- Thread starter cw308
- Start date
firewrench044
New member
If you do not feel any resistance when closing the bolt
I would continue with the 1.629
I would continue with the 1.629
alb, after every firing it goes back to 1.627
firewrench044 I resize case back to 1.629 with no bolt resistance.
I was going to try leaving the case at 1.627 using full length die & comp. shell holders. Would be similar to neck sizing, brass I would think my start to get longer, what is bothering me is .003 of headspace.
firewrench044 I resize case back to 1.629 with no bolt resistance.
I was going to try leaving the case at 1.627 using full length die & comp. shell holders. Would be similar to neck sizing, brass I would think my start to get longer, what is bothering me is .003 of headspace.
JeepHammer
Moderator
First off,
Headspace is determined by bolt to 'Datum Point' in the chamber.
Once you actually GAUGE the headspace in the chamber,
You can form brass to fit your specific chamber with a Datum Point adapter on your caliper.
Secondly, not all chambers have the same headspace.
Since the headspace can be 'Short' or 'Long' compaired to SAAMI specifications,
Just depends on how accurate the guy cutting the chamber was on the day your rifle was produced.
Most mass produced rifles have 'Long' headspacing when compaired to SAAMI standards.
It takes a real gunsmith to get a precise chamber cut, and he has to have sharp, accurate chamber cutting tools.
Third, once the chamber is gauged for its ACTUAL headspace length,
You can use a Datum Point adaptor on your caliper to determine the headspace of the brass you are producing.
Fourth,
Case over all length is the case head to case mouth distance,
Case Over All Length,
Which includes the the distance from case head to datum point, and from datum point to case mouth.
You CAN have sizing dies cut to specifically fit your headspace in the chamber,
They will push the shoulder back to specifically fit your 'Long' or 'Short' headspace.
You just have to know the chamber headspace.
There is a 'Short Cut' that will give you a pretty close idea.
Simply use a piece of 'Plasti-Gauge' on the case neck and chamber a resized brass.
Don't forget to oil the shoulder in the chamber or you will have a 50/50 chance of the Plasti-Gauge sticking to the chamber instead of the brass.
Dry lube works best, but oil is usually handy.
If you haven't used a filiment type before,
Its a plastic filiment that holds its shape when compressed,
You simply see how much the filliment flattened.
There will be a scale printed on the package to tell you the scale.
This is the same way engineers tell the clearance in closed compression applications, like engine bearings,
So its available at about any auto parts store for cheap.
You can't use it on a rotating bolt face since it will smear as the bolt closes.
Case shoulder will tell you how much distance there is between chamber shoulder and case.
Headspace is determined by bolt to 'Datum Point' in the chamber.
Once you actually GAUGE the headspace in the chamber,
You can form brass to fit your specific chamber with a Datum Point adapter on your caliper.
Secondly, not all chambers have the same headspace.
Since the headspace can be 'Short' or 'Long' compaired to SAAMI specifications,
Just depends on how accurate the guy cutting the chamber was on the day your rifle was produced.
Most mass produced rifles have 'Long' headspacing when compaired to SAAMI standards.
It takes a real gunsmith to get a precise chamber cut, and he has to have sharp, accurate chamber cutting tools.
Third, once the chamber is gauged for its ACTUAL headspace length,
You can use a Datum Point adaptor on your caliper to determine the headspace of the brass you are producing.
Fourth,
Case over all length is the case head to case mouth distance,
Case Over All Length,
Which includes the the distance from case head to datum point, and from datum point to case mouth.
You CAN have sizing dies cut to specifically fit your headspace in the chamber,
They will push the shoulder back to specifically fit your 'Long' or 'Short' headspace.
You just have to know the chamber headspace.
There is a 'Short Cut' that will give you a pretty close idea.
Simply use a piece of 'Plasti-Gauge' on the case neck and chamber a resized brass.
Don't forget to oil the shoulder in the chamber or you will have a 50/50 chance of the Plasti-Gauge sticking to the chamber instead of the brass.
Dry lube works best, but oil is usually handy.
If you haven't used a filiment type before,
Its a plastic filiment that holds its shape when compressed,
You simply see how much the filliment flattened.
There will be a scale printed on the package to tell you the scale.
This is the same way engineers tell the clearance in closed compression applications, like engine bearings,
So its available at about any auto parts store for cheap.
You can't use it on a rotating bolt face since it will smear as the bolt closes.
Case shoulder will tell you how much distance there is between chamber shoulder and case.
Would you resize to ?
One day reloaders will decide what the difference Is between .001” clearance and .005” clearance.
I built a rifle; I loaded 12 different loads of 10 rounds each using different cases in sets of 10, different bullets and amounts of powder. I took it to the range in an effort to determine what the rifle liked. There were no flyers and each group of 10 rounds grouped. Some of the groups moved around but did not open up.
I loaded another 120 rounds in groups of 10 and delivered the rifle. I asked the new owner to determine what the rifle liked. He made one shot with each group and then centered the scope.
What would I do? I would determine the length of the chamber from the shoulder to the bolt face. I do not have any hang-ups about how it can be done. There has to be at least three ways, because I am a case former I can size case length from the shoulder to the case head 28 different lengths if I start with .012” shorter than a go gage length chamber.
F. Guffey
JeepHammer
Moderator
Making Chamber Fit Your Brass?
I know this is 'Backwards' thinking for most people...
With the exception of reloaders which think differently to begin with!
(For better or worse, its an addiction! I can't afford Crack, I have to feed a reloader!)
What I keep running into is guys saying to blow out the case to fit the chamber,
Then neck size, don't mess with the chambers...
When the simple fact is, most of us have more than one chamber we reload for in the same caliber...
Now, this won't be for everyone, so please keep it polite when you disagree...
1. I use the same sizing dies for all my rifles in the same caliber with very few exceptions.
Thousands of brass, more or less a uniform size, auto loaders, turn bolts all get fed more or less the same cases even though I do vary powders/bullets a little depending on which rifle they are headed for.
2. Since the off the shelf resizing dies are more or less SAAMI specification,
And they produce more or less SAAMI specification brass,
Having chambers that fit my production ammo, as well as the commercially available ammo makes sense.
3. It takes about 2 hours of a good gunsmiths time to make the chamber of any common caliber rifle fit the brass I'm producing by the thousands.
One trip to the gunsmith, no more blown out brass or odd size chambers...
No more fiddling with brass to fit a specific odd sized chamber to get reasonable accuracy.
5. Standardizing the chambers is EXACTLY what most 'Custom' shops at the manufacturers do.
Align the chamber with the bore (no more 'Slip Knot' misaligned chambers with the bore, bolt face absloutely square with the bore, headspace/neck length cut to fit 'Primum' ammunition)
I've always thought it was a sad state of affairs that you bought a rifle, then spent more than the rifle cost in a 'Custom Shop' at the manufacturer or not, to get the screw-ups corrected so the rifle would shoot stright...
-----
Now, this particularly pertains to AR style rifles, but any rifle can benifit...
The super sloppy chambers cut to get the rifles to load the round,
Particularly auto loaders, just aren't the best for your brass or for accuracy.
Blowing out the brass hardens and thins the brass,
Grunting on the resized trying to muscle that brass back into shape does the same...
While a properly sized chamber keeps the stretching/thinning to a minimum,
And also often improves accuracy while making your brass live longer and reducing the force needed to resize...
Now, I can't say much for the guys that cut chambers by hand, some do a pretty good job, others not so much.
A good lathe will cut that chamber cleanly with accuracy that a human hand/arm can not replicate...
The one piece/all in one chamber reamer is an evil invention!
You get what the reamer manufacturer decided to give you,
Not what your reloader gives you for brass/ammo!
People think I'm nuts when I cut chambers in 4 steps with 4 different cutting tools,
Case body, shoulder, neck & throat.
It takes 4 steps, but once the barrel is chucked up and true in the lathe, its actually pretty easy...
This allows me to cut the case body to EXACTLY fit the brass any reloader produces, same with shoulder, same with case neck size/length,
And I can give that shooter a chamber freebore/throat that fits the bullets/seating depth they most produce.
I do take care to make the chamber safe for SAAMI specification Ammo,
But the results usually produce an extremely accurate rifle that soaks up the ammo reloaders produce.
Now remember,
This takes about 2 hours to remove barrel from action,
Chuck up in the lathe,
Move the chamber back into clean metal (add a thread or two),
And cut (NOT DRY REAM!) the chamber,
Reinstall in the rifle...
Reloaders usually produce with quality brass (not steel, plastic, way over or undersized), the bullets aren't 0.003" over or undersized,
So they usually benifit from the work more than the guys shooting forign crap ammo...
I'm wondering why so many resist the idea of having the chamber re-cut ONCE instead of monkeying with every single brass that comes over their benches?
I know this is 'Backwards' thinking for most people...
With the exception of reloaders which think differently to begin with!
(For better or worse, its an addiction! I can't afford Crack, I have to feed a reloader!)
What I keep running into is guys saying to blow out the case to fit the chamber,
Then neck size, don't mess with the chambers...
When the simple fact is, most of us have more than one chamber we reload for in the same caliber...
Now, this won't be for everyone, so please keep it polite when you disagree...
1. I use the same sizing dies for all my rifles in the same caliber with very few exceptions.
Thousands of brass, more or less a uniform size, auto loaders, turn bolts all get fed more or less the same cases even though I do vary powders/bullets a little depending on which rifle they are headed for.
2. Since the off the shelf resizing dies are more or less SAAMI specification,
And they produce more or less SAAMI specification brass,
Having chambers that fit my production ammo, as well as the commercially available ammo makes sense.
3. It takes about 2 hours of a good gunsmiths time to make the chamber of any common caliber rifle fit the brass I'm producing by the thousands.
One trip to the gunsmith, no more blown out brass or odd size chambers...
No more fiddling with brass to fit a specific odd sized chamber to get reasonable accuracy.
5. Standardizing the chambers is EXACTLY what most 'Custom' shops at the manufacturers do.
Align the chamber with the bore (no more 'Slip Knot' misaligned chambers with the bore, bolt face absloutely square with the bore, headspace/neck length cut to fit 'Primum' ammunition)
I've always thought it was a sad state of affairs that you bought a rifle, then spent more than the rifle cost in a 'Custom Shop' at the manufacturer or not, to get the screw-ups corrected so the rifle would shoot stright...
-----
Now, this particularly pertains to AR style rifles, but any rifle can benifit...
The super sloppy chambers cut to get the rifles to load the round,
Particularly auto loaders, just aren't the best for your brass or for accuracy.
Blowing out the brass hardens and thins the brass,
Grunting on the resized trying to muscle that brass back into shape does the same...
While a properly sized chamber keeps the stretching/thinning to a minimum,
And also often improves accuracy while making your brass live longer and reducing the force needed to resize...
Now, I can't say much for the guys that cut chambers by hand, some do a pretty good job, others not so much.
A good lathe will cut that chamber cleanly with accuracy that a human hand/arm can not replicate...
The one piece/all in one chamber reamer is an evil invention!
You get what the reamer manufacturer decided to give you,
Not what your reloader gives you for brass/ammo!
People think I'm nuts when I cut chambers in 4 steps with 4 different cutting tools,
Case body, shoulder, neck & throat.
It takes 4 steps, but once the barrel is chucked up and true in the lathe, its actually pretty easy...
This allows me to cut the case body to EXACTLY fit the brass any reloader produces, same with shoulder, same with case neck size/length,
And I can give that shooter a chamber freebore/throat that fits the bullets/seating depth they most produce.
I do take care to make the chamber safe for SAAMI specification Ammo,
But the results usually produce an extremely accurate rifle that soaks up the ammo reloaders produce.
Now remember,
This takes about 2 hours to remove barrel from action,
Chuck up in the lathe,
Move the chamber back into clean metal (add a thread or two),
And cut (NOT DRY REAM!) the chamber,
Reinstall in the rifle...
Reloaders usually produce with quality brass (not steel, plastic, way over or undersized), the bullets aren't 0.003" over or undersized,
So they usually benifit from the work more than the guys shooting forign crap ammo...
I'm wondering why so many resist the idea of having the chamber re-cut ONCE instead of monkeying with every single brass that comes over their benches?
firewrench044
New member
Build 10 cartilages at 1.629, 10 at 1.628 and 10 at 1.627
shoot them at 3 different targets at least 200 yards
and compare the patterns
if the accuracy is the same, leaving the case at 1.627 will be fine
it is only 0.003 smaller than the chamber so you will not be working
the brass much at all
For a bolt gun I size the cases 0.002 to 0.003 smaller
for bolt gun with a match chamber I size to 0.001 to 0.002 smaller
for a semi auto I size to 0.003 to 0.005 smaller
for a semi auto with a match chamber I size to 0.002 to 0.004 smaller
what ever you size your cases to you are still in the tolerances
I use at 600 yards ( 223, 308, 3006 and 8mm Mauser )
( I also use a competition sizing Die set and anneal after every firing )
shoot them at 3 different targets at least 200 yards
and compare the patterns
if the accuracy is the same, leaving the case at 1.627 will be fine
it is only 0.003 smaller than the chamber so you will not be working
the brass much at all
For a bolt gun I size the cases 0.002 to 0.003 smaller
for bolt gun with a match chamber I size to 0.001 to 0.002 smaller
for a semi auto I size to 0.003 to 0.005 smaller
for a semi auto with a match chamber I size to 0.002 to 0.004 smaller
what ever you size your cases to you are still in the tolerances
I use at 600 yards ( 223, 308, 3006 and 8mm Mauser )
( I also use a competition sizing Die set and anneal after every firing )
JeepHammer
Moderator
Anealing is way over looked and under rated, usually done completely wrong when its attempted...
I see the guys using temp color change paint to roughly guess the temp of the case, which gives you a roughly 50 degree range when used correctly,
Which most of the time its not used correctly...
Paint the INSIDE of the case neck, not the outside where you normally apply the flame/heat from!
Direct flame will heat the paint up faster, so you get even more inaccurate.
Rotating the case, or using more than one flame source is a must.
Heating one side of the case screws up more than it accomplishes.
If you see a 'Puff' of smoke come from the case neck while heating, you just reached the vapor off point of one or more of the alloy materials in the case,
For all intents & purposes, the case is junk.
Electrical induction heating will give you a MUCH more accurate and inclusive/evenly distributed heating of the case.
The magnetic 'Eddie Currents' produced by an electrical induction heater actually doesn't introduce heat from outside the case,
The quickly changing magnetic fields INDUCE the case to self heat THROUGHLY and evenly from within the brass itself.
Almost perfectly evenly heated brass with induction.
A proper pyrometer or infrared thermometer will tell accurately what the case temp gets up to, and in the case of infrared hand held units, they run about $20.
Quite a good deal over the old temp color change paint.
Induction with an adjustable timer will get your cases to temperature QUICKLY without overheating them, with a large enough induction heater, 3 to 5 seconds a case.
As with open flame annealing, you CAN over heat the case and let the 'Magic Smoke' out...
That's where an accurate way to gauge the temp and a timer comes in,
Home built anealers run about $30 with instructions all over 'YouTube',
Commercial units run from $150 to $500.
Timers cost about $10 with parts/instructions from Radio Shack.
Its called a 555 or 556 timer circuit.
Most commercial units come with a timer built in.
Another big advantage of most induction units is no need to rotate the case, induction heats 360 degrees around the case neck, so ultra even heating with no rotation.
It was simple to use a case auto feeder to drop cases in the coil,
Build a drop out when the timer shuts off, so its automatic feed, drop when you do large volumes of cases.
The big advantage of annealer a is case neck tension,
At 'Dead Soft' you are exactly back to factory case hardness,
So neck tension returns when case neck hardening is removed,
(Depending completely on the neck sizer ball you are using).
The second best thing is all stress is removed from case neck/shoulder,
Factory crimps that harden the case mouth,
Shooting/Resizing the shoulder work hardens the brass isn't an issue anymore, so your brass lasts many more load/fire/resize cycles.
A proper annealer is mandatory for changing calibers of cases,
Without an annealer of some kind turning .223 into 300 black out would be impossible to do correctly,
Same with .308 to 22-250, or .30-06 to 25-06 or .17-06, ect.
I've found regular annealing has tripled the number of times I can load some cases, improving accuracy at the same time in many cases.
For under $100 for eBay or radio shack parts and a couple hours work putting one together, its well worth the $ and effort.
I might think twice about a $500 commercial unit for low volume reloading,
But for guys that reload 1,000 rounds at a sitting, not even the $500 price tag would scare me for the benifits you gain.
By the way, electric annealers run on less electricity than a CF light bulb,
Very efficient & no open flame in the reloading area.
I ran my first try on a 12 volt car battery, did about 4,000 cases before the battery needed charged.
I see the guys using temp color change paint to roughly guess the temp of the case, which gives you a roughly 50 degree range when used correctly,
Which most of the time its not used correctly...
Paint the INSIDE of the case neck, not the outside where you normally apply the flame/heat from!
Direct flame will heat the paint up faster, so you get even more inaccurate.
Rotating the case, or using more than one flame source is a must.
Heating one side of the case screws up more than it accomplishes.
If you see a 'Puff' of smoke come from the case neck while heating, you just reached the vapor off point of one or more of the alloy materials in the case,
For all intents & purposes, the case is junk.
Electrical induction heating will give you a MUCH more accurate and inclusive/evenly distributed heating of the case.
The magnetic 'Eddie Currents' produced by an electrical induction heater actually doesn't introduce heat from outside the case,
The quickly changing magnetic fields INDUCE the case to self heat THROUGHLY and evenly from within the brass itself.
Almost perfectly evenly heated brass with induction.
A proper pyrometer or infrared thermometer will tell accurately what the case temp gets up to, and in the case of infrared hand held units, they run about $20.
Quite a good deal over the old temp color change paint.
Induction with an adjustable timer will get your cases to temperature QUICKLY without overheating them, with a large enough induction heater, 3 to 5 seconds a case.
As with open flame annealing, you CAN over heat the case and let the 'Magic Smoke' out...
That's where an accurate way to gauge the temp and a timer comes in,
Home built anealers run about $30 with instructions all over 'YouTube',
Commercial units run from $150 to $500.
Timers cost about $10 with parts/instructions from Radio Shack.
Its called a 555 or 556 timer circuit.
Most commercial units come with a timer built in.
Another big advantage of most induction units is no need to rotate the case, induction heats 360 degrees around the case neck, so ultra even heating with no rotation.
It was simple to use a case auto feeder to drop cases in the coil,
Build a drop out when the timer shuts off, so its automatic feed, drop when you do large volumes of cases.
The big advantage of annealer a is case neck tension,
At 'Dead Soft' you are exactly back to factory case hardness,
So neck tension returns when case neck hardening is removed,
(Depending completely on the neck sizer ball you are using).
The second best thing is all stress is removed from case neck/shoulder,
Factory crimps that harden the case mouth,
Shooting/Resizing the shoulder work hardens the brass isn't an issue anymore, so your brass lasts many more load/fire/resize cycles.
A proper annealer is mandatory for changing calibers of cases,
Without an annealer of some kind turning .223 into 300 black out would be impossible to do correctly,
Same with .308 to 22-250, or .30-06 to 25-06 or .17-06, ect.
I've found regular annealing has tripled the number of times I can load some cases, improving accuracy at the same time in many cases.
For under $100 for eBay or radio shack parts and a couple hours work putting one together, its well worth the $ and effort.
I might think twice about a $500 commercial unit for low volume reloading,
But for guys that reload 1,000 rounds at a sitting, not even the $500 price tag would scare me for the benifits you gain.
By the way, electric annealers run on less electricity than a CF light bulb,
Very efficient & no open flame in the reloading area.
I ran my first try on a 12 volt car battery, did about 4,000 cases before the battery needed charged.
I'm wondering why so many resist the idea of having the chamber re-cut ONCE instead of monkeying with every single brass that comes over their benches.
I am not a fan of following instructions that start with “repeat after me”, I believe the reloader should do some of the thinking.
Who does that? I believe there is something a reloader does not understood between the case and chamber. I believe there are factors that govern reloading. Then there is annealing, as I have said I anneal cases. I have said my annealing is unlike any annealing done by other reloaders because I use simple rules. Questions; I ask questions; If reloaders have the best equipment and use the best methods and techniques when annealing why aren’t they happy instead of mad at me.
I know; what was the question? What is so difficult and complicated about simple rules?
F. Guffey
Thanks for all the information, as always. My match barrel chamber is cut to minimum spec. 1.630. I feel do to the width of the chamber is causing the case to expand causing it to get .003 shorter. I feel the less room in case length is better then case width. Would you agree?
When you resize, the case is narrowed, which makes it longer. You then bump the shoulder back when it runs into the die's shoulder. So you can make cases longer or shorter at the shoulder than actual headspace and have to choose where to put the die to get what you want.
How are you measuring headspace of the chamber and how are you measuring the cases?
How are you measuring headspace of the chamber and how are you measuring the cases?
Unclenick, I'm using the RCBS Precision Mic. I size my cases with the shandard RCBS F/L Die using the Redding precision shell holder set of 5 different deck heights. When sizing head space to 1.630 there is a slight resistance on bolt closing, at 1.629 bolt closes very smooth.
If you get a good quality headspace GO gauge, you can calibrate the PM with it. I have three of them and they are off absolute by up to 0.002". Yours may be right on, but I don't know any other way to check them but a good gauge. I've had a few inexpensive gauges that turned out to be off by up to a couple of thousandths. The ones I've got from Dave Manson have always been right on within the limits of my ability to determine that, though.
Coming out as much shorter as you are after firing is not something I've seen. I suspect that even though the 1.6290" feels like it chambers smoothly, it is still being compressed slightly. You really have to disassemble the bolt to tell. If there is pressure from a spring-loaded ejector on the case you can't tell because you are always compressing the ejector spring as your minimum feel.
If you look at the SAAMI drawing for 308, you will see the maximum case and minimum chamber (the values give before the tolerance) allow the case to be 0.004" longer than the chamber. This is because the chamber, being wider, allows compression to swell the sides of the case some. So the gun keeps functioning even when there is some interference fit. If you have a little of that and if your PM reads a little short, as one of mine does, that would account for it. That is, you have a 1.630" chamber, but your PM reads 1.628" on a 1.630" headspace gauge. So you put in the case that reads 1.629:, but it is actually 1.631" due to the PM error. It squeezes in, but after fireforming is the chamber minus 0.001" springback in length to 1.629" actual, but which reads 1.627" on the PM.
Coming out as much shorter as you are after firing is not something I've seen. I suspect that even though the 1.6290" feels like it chambers smoothly, it is still being compressed slightly. You really have to disassemble the bolt to tell. If there is pressure from a spring-loaded ejector on the case you can't tell because you are always compressing the ejector spring as your minimum feel.
If you look at the SAAMI drawing for 308, you will see the maximum case and minimum chamber (the values give before the tolerance) allow the case to be 0.004" longer than the chamber. This is because the chamber, being wider, allows compression to swell the sides of the case some. So the gun keeps functioning even when there is some interference fit. If you have a little of that and if your PM reads a little short, as one of mine does, that would account for it. That is, you have a 1.630" chamber, but your PM reads 1.628" on a 1.630" headspace gauge. So you put in the case that reads 1.629:, but it is actually 1.631" due to the PM error. It squeezes in, but after fireforming is the chamber minus 0.001" springback in length to 1.629" actual, but which reads 1.627" on the PM.
Unclenick, I feel the PM is right on 1.630 also testing with the Lyman case guage. Ihanks for getting back with the helpful info. What was confusing me is all my cases whether Win. or Fed brass my fired cases all measured 1.627 from a reloaded case measuring 1.629. Would you still resize headspace at 1.629 or try 1.627 with .002 free space.
CW308 is my hero!!! He`s the only one on this forum that I`ve seen admit to using the RCBS Precision mic...
The RCBS mic is easy to use and it will help you see how your cases compare to factory loads...many will be surprised to see factory ammo sized .015 to .025 undersize.
It only takes 1 time when a sizer die is not properly adjusted, to see you`ve loaded a batch of ammo that you can`t get the bolt closed on...ask me how I know...I shoot a Rem 700 AAC in .308, and a Springfield Armory M1A. it`s easier to check reloads with the PM than it is to check by chambering in each rifle...safer too!!!
The RCBS mic is easy to use and it will help you see how your cases compare to factory loads...many will be surprised to see factory ammo sized .015 to .025 undersize.
It only takes 1 time when a sizer die is not properly adjusted, to see you`ve loaded a batch of ammo that you can`t get the bolt closed on...ask me how I know...I shoot a Rem 700 AAC in .308, and a Springfield Armory M1A. it`s easier to check reloads with the PM than it is to check by chambering in each rifle...safer too!!!
You do not 'size' for headspace. Headspace is a rifle manufacturing tolerance only. Cartridges do not have headspace.
And there's not a chance you can adjust any die by just one thou. The brass will expand and contract more than that. One thou will make absolutely no difference to anything.
And there's not a chance you can adjust any die by just one thou. The brass will expand and contract more than that. One thou will make absolutely no difference to anything.
firewrench044
New member
Nitescout--
I also use the RCBS Precision MIC
I love it, makes die adjustment easy and precise and that is
just one of the three functions of the set
Use them on- 223, 308, 3006, 8MM Mauser and 6.5X55 Swedish
cw308--
Try the 1.627 and see what happens
I also use the RCBS Precision MIC
I love it, makes die adjustment easy and precise and that is
just one of the three functions of the set
Use them on- 223, 308, 3006, 8MM Mauser and 6.5X55 Swedish
cw308--
Try the 1.627 and see what happens