What are some things to look for when buying a Enfield rifle? I've always wanted one but I'm scared I'll get a crappy rifle that wont be able to hit the broad side of a barn. Now I know you should get the headspace checked but I'll more than likely get it from Fleet Farm or Gander Mountain so I couldnt until after I bought the gun. So that being said any opinions would be appreciated and thanks in advance.
What to look for when buying an Enfield rifle
- Thread starter nathaniel
- Start date
http://www.enfieldrifles.ca/
http://www.enfield-stuff.com/
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/philqgbr/enfield.html
http://surplusrifle.com/
Familiarize yourself with the takedown and parts of the rifles. IMO for a first Enfield it's hard to beat a No.1 MkIII or a No4Mk1. Stay away from ones with black paint all over them or the 'FTR' marked ones unless it's dirt cheap.
Look for everything to be matching although a nonmatching mag isn't a big deal.
http://www.enfield-stuff.com/
http://www.telusplanet.net/public/philqgbr/enfield.html
http://surplusrifle.com/
Familiarize yourself with the takedown and parts of the rifles. IMO for a first Enfield it's hard to beat a No.1 MkIII or a No4Mk1. Stay away from ones with black paint all over them or the 'FTR' marked ones unless it's dirt cheap.
Look for everything to be matching although a nonmatching mag isn't a big deal.
madcratebuilder
New member
Spend some time reading about the different models of the LE. You have the No1 from WWI and the No4 from WWII. That should be your first derision, a No1 or a No4. You can find post war No4 Mk2's that are still in the wrap if you care to spend that much. Nearly new No4's can be found for around $400 compared to $200-250 for a war time issue.
The bolt number should match the receiver but is not absolutely necessary. Either case you should have the head space checked with a BRITISH spec gauge.
Inspect the end of the bolt for corrosion and firing pin protrusion. Check the bore for pitting, most are going to be dark, you want strong lands and grooves. The chamber should be shinny with no pits or dings. Check the trigger, it should be a two stage with about 3-4.5 lbs one the first stage and about 6-7 lbs on the second with a crisp break.
Preferably you want a rifle with the ladder style backsight vs the flip style. The color of the furniture should match. Some rifles well have the serial number stamped in the fore-ends.
Expect about 4moa at best from the average No4.
The No4 came out of several different factories. F or ROF is Fazakerley, M is Maltby, M47 is BSA Shirley, S is Savage-Stevens, they well be marked US PROPERTY and made in Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts. Last would be L over B, Long Branch, made in Canada. Here in the states the North American made rifles seem to bring a higher price.
Many war time rifles had or have war time expedient parts. These were replaced after the war when most of these rifle went through FTR (Factory Through Repair)
Many Enfields saw service in India and may have a Ishy screw in the fore-end.
As you can see there are dozens of variations of this rifle.
The bolt number should match the receiver but is not absolutely necessary. Either case you should have the head space checked with a BRITISH spec gauge.
Inspect the end of the bolt for corrosion and firing pin protrusion. Check the bore for pitting, most are going to be dark, you want strong lands and grooves. The chamber should be shinny with no pits or dings. Check the trigger, it should be a two stage with about 3-4.5 lbs one the first stage and about 6-7 lbs on the second with a crisp break.
Preferably you want a rifle with the ladder style backsight vs the flip style. The color of the furniture should match. Some rifles well have the serial number stamped in the fore-ends.
Expect about 4moa at best from the average No4.
The No4 came out of several different factories. F or ROF is Fazakerley, M is Maltby, M47 is BSA Shirley, S is Savage-Stevens, they well be marked US PROPERTY and made in Chicopee Falls, Massachusetts. Last would be L over B, Long Branch, made in Canada. Here in the states the North American made rifles seem to bring a higher price.
Many war time rifles had or have war time expedient parts. These were replaced after the war when most of these rifle went through FTR (Factory Through Repair)
Many Enfields saw service in India and may have a Ishy screw in the fore-end.
As you can see there are dozens of variations of this rifle.
zombieslayer
New member
I like my Ishapore 308. Black laquer and all.
Mike Irwin
Staff
The biggest thing to look for?
The condition of the bore.
I've seen MANY looks good on the outside Lee-Enfields with sewerpipe bores, courtesy of the hot-burning corrosive primed ammo that the British used for most of the rifle's life span.
I've also seen quite a few that don't look so good on the outside but which have very nice bores.
The condition of the bore.
I've seen MANY looks good on the outside Lee-Enfields with sewerpipe bores, courtesy of the hot-burning corrosive primed ammo that the British used for most of the rifle's life span.
I've also seen quite a few that don't look so good on the outside but which have very nice bores.
I have owned about 9 or 10 of them over the years -
When I started buying them, they were around $70 each. I have had ratty looking ones, several from WWI, one with a ringed bore and awful rifling. They ALL shot well, even the one I got for next to nothing because of the poor bore condition.
Clean it all well. Get some info on them from one of the many web sites full of information on the SMLE.*
Determine if you want one with the rear peep sight ( easiest for me to shoot well) or the old style open sight (maybe a smoother action).
The mags are NOT supposed to be removed to load - load them from the top with stripper clips-it is easy to bent the feed lips by removing them and jamming them back in place loaded.
FWIW, the Indian made Ishapore rifles have their own fans and they are as good as any others. FTR means that rifle has had a Ractory Thourough Repair - a factory bebuild - and the cheap black paint was done on purpose at that time - it was the standard finish for the rifles used post WWII.
The .303 British is a great cartridge, can be handloaded very hot and in a versatile range of bullet types, weights and charges - it is about like a mid range .308 Win.
I have owned many major and some pretty obscure surplus rifles over the last 45 years, and the only one I own now is an Indian Enfield. It has the best trigger of any issue rifle I have ever shot, and is a real gem-extremely accurate.
mark
*Link here: http://www.enfieldrifles.ca/
When I started buying them, they were around $70 each. I have had ratty looking ones, several from WWI, one with a ringed bore and awful rifling. They ALL shot well, even the one I got for next to nothing because of the poor bore condition.
Clean it all well. Get some info on them from one of the many web sites full of information on the SMLE.*
Determine if you want one with the rear peep sight ( easiest for me to shoot well) or the old style open sight (maybe a smoother action).
The mags are NOT supposed to be removed to load - load them from the top with stripper clips-it is easy to bent the feed lips by removing them and jamming them back in place loaded.
FWIW, the Indian made Ishapore rifles have their own fans and they are as good as any others. FTR means that rifle has had a Ractory Thourough Repair - a factory bebuild - and the cheap black paint was done on purpose at that time - it was the standard finish for the rifles used post WWII.
The .303 British is a great cartridge, can be handloaded very hot and in a versatile range of bullet types, weights and charges - it is about like a mid range .308 Win.
I have owned many major and some pretty obscure surplus rifles over the last 45 years, and the only one I own now is an Indian Enfield. It has the best trigger of any issue rifle I have ever shot, and is a real gem-extremely accurate.
mark
*Link here: http://www.enfieldrifles.ca/
Why not?
This is easy to do, takes about 30 seconds, is non-marring or damaging, & will only cost about $35.00.
That's cheap insurance to me.
As for what to look for. First double-proof the rifle as empty & safe!!
Good bore, no boogered screws, low bolt head number, undamaged wood, matching numbers on as many parts as possible. Action should be slick with no "gritty" part to the movement. Safe should work, the cocking piece should back off a tad when the safe is engaged. Cock the rifle, engage the safety, pull the trigger, disengage the safety. The rifle should NOT drop the firing pin.
If the bolt handle lifts 1/4" or so when dry-firing don't worry, this is normal. Movement in excess of this is NOT normal. The trigger, while advertised as 2 stage actually has 3 "phases". Phase one floppy & disconnected, Phase 2, light spring tension (about 3~5 Lbs is right) Phase 3 no movement but drops the striker at about 5~8 Lbs.
If it's a #4 (like the one in the pic) the barrel should be lightly pressed into the center of the lower forend. It should lift free with 5~8 Lbs of pull & return to the bottom center when released.
trg42wraglefragle
New member
I know this is an older thread, but I'm wondering where Lee Enfields have serial numbers to check if they match.
I'm guessing the bolt and receiver but where else?
Thanks
I'm guessing the bolt and receiver but where else?
Thanks
It varies with model & mark a little, but this is my best rememberence of the #1 & #4. I'm not familiar with the earlier models, perhaps someone else will help with those.
#1 / S.M.L.E.:
Barrel, receiver, bolt handle, magazine & nose cap.
#4:
Action, Bolt, Barrel, Forend, Magazine base.
#1 / S.M.L.E.:
Barrel, receiver, bolt handle, magazine & nose cap.
#4:
Action, Bolt, Barrel, Forend, Magazine base.
madcratebuilder
New member
No1 well have a matched receiver, bolt, nose cap and may have a # matched magazine and barrel. Some may have #'s on the foreend.
The No4 well have receiver and bolt matched. Many well have #'s on the foreend. Very few have the serial number on the barrel. You may or may not see a matched magazine. The No4 MkI mags may be marked at the unit level. Most all the MkII and the No5 mags were marked (EP'ed) at the factory.
There are exceptions to everything Enfield.
Most all the parts on a No1-4-5 well have a factory code, a number/letter/mark of some sort. Become familiar with these and you well have a better idea if you are looking at a parts gun or a relatively original gun.
The No4 well have receiver and bolt matched. Many well have #'s on the foreend. Very few have the serial number on the barrel. You may or may not see a matched magazine. The No4 MkI mags may be marked at the unit level. Most all the MkII and the No5 mags were marked (EP'ed) at the factory.
There are exceptions to everything Enfield.
Most all the parts on a No1-4-5 well have a factory code, a number/letter/mark of some sort. Become familiar with these and you well have a better idea if you are looking at a parts gun or a relatively original gun.
Joe Chicago
New member
I recommend you get a model with aperture sights. I have a No 4 with flip-up apertures and it is great.
Ignition Override
New member
The aperture sights on my #4/Mk. 1 rifles make them as accurate as shooting my Service Grade Garand.
All of these rifles have more potential than I can ever exploit.
nathaniel: Many of the #4/Mk. 1 which I've seen at gun shows have fairly bright bores with good rifling, or better.
You might want to buy a #4 which has four or five-groove rifling.
I recently had a Longbranch with a two-groove bore, and the bore was very bright with good rifling.
Unfortunately while using brand-new Prvi ammo (most newer .303 ammo has 'BT' boat tail bullets) all rounds "keyholed" at 100 yards.
Some 2-groove Enfields have no luck with boat tail bullets, but many people have good results with theirs.
All Longbranch and Savage ("US Property") Enfields have two grooves, but the vast majority of those built in England by Maltby, Faz. etc have four or five grooves.
All of these rifles have more potential than I can ever exploit.
nathaniel: Many of the #4/Mk. 1 which I've seen at gun shows have fairly bright bores with good rifling, or better.
You might want to buy a #4 which has four or five-groove rifling.
I recently had a Longbranch with a two-groove bore, and the bore was very bright with good rifling.
Unfortunately while using brand-new Prvi ammo (most newer .303 ammo has 'BT' boat tail bullets) all rounds "keyholed" at 100 yards.
Some 2-groove Enfields have no luck with boat tail bullets, but many people have good results with theirs.
All Longbranch and Savage ("US Property") Enfields have two grooves, but the vast majority of those built in England by Maltby, Faz. etc have four or five grooves.
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