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What to look for in spotting scopes..
- Thread starter SomeKid
- Start date
The main difference between a good scope and a bad scope is always going to be the quality of the glass. If you ever have a chance to try out scopes by Zeiss, Swarovski, and Kowa, you're going to see that scopes with high quality glass will provide the clearest image with great color/contrast. That's not to say that Leupold, Bushnell, Nikon, etc., aren't clear, but higher quality scopes will have noticable differences in image quality. There are also different coatings that manufacturers put on the glass which will enhance image quality (and increase price, of course).
If you are shopping for a spotting scope, you need to look at a few things.
1. Objective size. The objective size determines the amount of light transferred into the image. The lower the objective size, the less light transmitted. The less light transmitted, the dimmer the image projected to the eyepiece and often, the lesser the quality of the image (not as clear). 60mm and above is desired.
2. Eye relief. Shooting optics are unique in that shooters wear eye protection (well, at least you should be) while equipment. Trying to look through a scope with short eye relief while wearing glasses gets annoying because you will often hit the eyepiece with your glasses. This isn't fun if you end up scratching your eyeglasses or the eyepiece (or both).
3. Angled or straight body. There's reasons to buy one or the other. Straight body scopes are easier to line up on the target (or object to be viewed). Some will make other arguements for straight bodies. But I think angled body is the best and gives the most flexibility for shooters. Angled body scopes can be used comfortably in pretty much all shooting positions. If you shoot high power competition, you definitely need an angled scope. No exceptions.
4. Cost. Unfortunately, cost is probably the main factor for most purchases. The cheap $100 and under scopes will work for anyone at 100 yards (for the most part). It's definitely not going to give you the best image and clarity, but you'll be able to see your shots. Beyond 100 yards, the sub-$100 scopes aren't going to cut it. The quality of the glass becomes a huge factor and image clarity will suffer. I had a Bushnell Sentry 18-36x50 awhile back and I could just barely make out 22 holes at 100 yards and it suffered at 200 yards. Image was dim, blurry, and mirage was killing it. There are a lot of midrange scopes between $200-$400. I have a lot of experience with the Bushnell Spacemaster (20-45x60 armored model) and I have handled lots of variations of the Spacemaster; everything from the older metal bodies to the multiposition eyepiece models to the new collapsible models. I feel that the Spacemaster is probably the best lower cost spotting scope you can get. You can find Spacemasters for around $150-$300 depending on which model you want. Lots of people seem to like the Nikon Earth and Sky (or Sky and Earth, same difference), but these run for about $500. I've heard mixed things about the Burris Landmark scopes. The Leupold Wind River line actually a line of scopes made by another manufacturer and Leupold licensed their name to. The Wind River scopes have been found to be disappointing by most people.
My opinion: If you are trying to keep the cost between $200-$400, stick with the Bushnell Spacemaster. If you are going to spend $500, look into the Kowa 600 line. Beyond that, the Kowa 660 and 820 series are good, as well as the Zeiss scopes.
If you are shopping for a spotting scope, you need to look at a few things.
1. Objective size. The objective size determines the amount of light transferred into the image. The lower the objective size, the less light transmitted. The less light transmitted, the dimmer the image projected to the eyepiece and often, the lesser the quality of the image (not as clear). 60mm and above is desired.
2. Eye relief. Shooting optics are unique in that shooters wear eye protection (well, at least you should be) while equipment. Trying to look through a scope with short eye relief while wearing glasses gets annoying because you will often hit the eyepiece with your glasses. This isn't fun if you end up scratching your eyeglasses or the eyepiece (or both).
3. Angled or straight body. There's reasons to buy one or the other. Straight body scopes are easier to line up on the target (or object to be viewed). Some will make other arguements for straight bodies. But I think angled body is the best and gives the most flexibility for shooters. Angled body scopes can be used comfortably in pretty much all shooting positions. If you shoot high power competition, you definitely need an angled scope. No exceptions.
4. Cost. Unfortunately, cost is probably the main factor for most purchases. The cheap $100 and under scopes will work for anyone at 100 yards (for the most part). It's definitely not going to give you the best image and clarity, but you'll be able to see your shots. Beyond 100 yards, the sub-$100 scopes aren't going to cut it. The quality of the glass becomes a huge factor and image clarity will suffer. I had a Bushnell Sentry 18-36x50 awhile back and I could just barely make out 22 holes at 100 yards and it suffered at 200 yards. Image was dim, blurry, and mirage was killing it. There are a lot of midrange scopes between $200-$400. I have a lot of experience with the Bushnell Spacemaster (20-45x60 armored model) and I have handled lots of variations of the Spacemaster; everything from the older metal bodies to the multiposition eyepiece models to the new collapsible models. I feel that the Spacemaster is probably the best lower cost spotting scope you can get. You can find Spacemasters for around $150-$300 depending on which model you want. Lots of people seem to like the Nikon Earth and Sky (or Sky and Earth, same difference), but these run for about $500. I've heard mixed things about the Burris Landmark scopes. The Leupold Wind River line actually a line of scopes made by another manufacturer and Leupold licensed their name to. The Wind River scopes have been found to be disappointing by most people.
My opinion: If you are trying to keep the cost between $200-$400, stick with the Bushnell Spacemaster. If you are going to spend $500, look into the Kowa 600 line. Beyond that, the Kowa 660 and 820 series are good, as well as the Zeiss scopes.
Capt. Charlie
Moderator Emeritus
Here's an earlier thread that had some info also.
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172202
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=172202
buy one that is real stable, so that when zooming in it wont vibrate or shake.
Stability is all a product of the stand. You need a good tripod for solid stability. Most highpower competition scope stands have some element of wobble when extended for the standing offhand position.
travelinguy
Inactive
If you are shooting in the 100-200 yard range, you probably don't need the Hubble Telescope and, in my opinion, probably don't need an ultra-expensive scope. I usually shoot in the upper range of that and ave been really happy with the Leupold Wind River Sequoia. I got mine complete with case and tripod for $270 something at huntersdiscount
I've been really happy with it. I got an angled one, so much easier on the neck and the extra eye relief is a plus.
I've been really happy with it. I got an angled one, so much easier on the neck and the extra eye relief is a plus.