What rifle/caliber do you recommend?

B

Buzzdoc

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I'm heading out west (Alberta) for the first time next year white tail hunting, and I'm using this trip as an excuse to buy a new rifle. I want something that is reliable to 600+ yards, but I also want something that performs well with Eastern white tail and pigs at home. My current 338 RUM is a bit much for Eastern game.

My plan is to buy a synthetic/stainless rifle. I don't want to have to worry about marring up the wood or the finish. I am also not looking to buy some crazy custom whatever that costs an arm an a leg. Ammo price is also a consideration (the 338 RUM costs fortune to shoot). I will put an appropriate scope on whatever rifle I choose, something along the lines of a Nightforce, Leupold Mark 4, etc.

I am leaning toward 300 WSM, but I am not married to that caliber at this point. At least 2 of the other hunters are taking 300 WSM, so that does simplify ammo a bit on the hunt.

My thoughts now are:

Browning X-Bolt Stainless Stalker in 300 WSM
Winchester M-70 in synthetic or the Extreme Weather version
Kimber 8400 WSM Montana
Sako A7 ST
Tikka T3 Stainless

Any thoughts/ideas/opinions about these or any other alternatives?


EDIT: I don't reload, so I need something that likes to shoot factory ammo straight. I do understand that all of these rifles will very likely outperform me regardless of brand, caliber, and ammo, especially at 500+ yards.
 
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How many hundred rounds have you practiced with, out beyond 300 yards? I ask because any and every cartridge will encounter serious problems with wind drift, once beyond 300. It easily turns a kill shot into a crippling, lost critter, shot.

There are quite a few cartridges which will reach out to rather long distances and be very effective at one-shot kills. You don't need to go up into the Magnum class, either.

Most any cartridge which uses a bullet between 130 and 180 grains, with a muzzle velocity around 2,800 ft/sec will work. On deer, I'd not go above 165 grains in a thirty caliber.

If you reasonably expect shots to be in the 300- to 400-yard distance, I wouldn't use less than something like the .270 or general equivalent.

I guess it's obvious that I see the deal as more of a skill thing than a gun thing...
 
I agree completely that it's more about skill that caliber or rifle. Like I mentioned, I'm using this trip as an excuse to buy a new rifle. I have a Remington 700 in 338 RUM, Sako something in 30-06, Winchester Model 70 in 270, Weatherby Mark V in 270 Weatherby mag, and Remington Model 70 in 300 Weatherby mag that I could take with me, but I'd like to get a new caliber, possibly in a make/model that I don't currently have.

I'm pretty good out to 200-250, but my practice beyond that is limited by access to a range with long distances. I am about to join a club that has 100, 200, 300, and 500 yard ranges, so hopefully I will be able to do my part if I need to.
 
If you are serious about hunting beyond 300, you need to:

1) Know the trajectory, including wind drift and uphill/downhill values of the gun/load that you are using. Efficient bullets and high velocities make the numbers smaller, but beyond 400 yards, they are still significant.

2) practice, a lot. Case lots. At unknown distances 300 yards +, on a target the size of your quarry's kill zone, from field positions with the same equipment you will use while hunting. You can be shooting a STW that will put 5 rounds of the sleekest 7mm bullet ever invented through the same hole in a paper target at 600 yards from a bench on a calm day ...... but if you don't know whether your animal is at 450 or 525 yards, where to hold for the 10mph wind, the 30 degree downhill shot, and be able to hold to make the shot without a bench ......... forget it: get closer.
 
What the other have said. As far as caliber I'd stay with a long lived standard like the 7mm Rem Mag. Of course many cartridges will fit the bill if you are up to the shot and know the ballistics of the round.
 
You don't have, unless I just missed seeing it, a 280 caliber. I'd suggest either the Sako or the Winchester you mentioned in 280 AI. But wait...you said you don't reload. Of course, with that 270 Weatherby Mag, you really don't need anything new for whitetail deer. You can sight it in for 200 yards and it'll drop 20 inches or less at 400 yards, with a 130 grain bullet. And it'll do the job at 500 yards or more, if you can do your part. And honestly, if I was really going to take shots at 500 yards, I wouldn't do it with factory ammo. If I wasn't a reloader, I'd become a reloader. Most all the really cool calibers require you to reload. Buy some reloading gear and come over to our side.:D
 
And honestly, if I was really going to take shots at 500 yards, I wouldn't do it with factory ammo. If I wasn't a reloader, I'd become a reloader.
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Twice the premium shots for the same money as 1/2 the bulk ammo ...... that will help with the "case lots of practice" part".

Plus, access to bullets you can't get in factory ammo- Berger VLD's come to mind......

Buy some reloading gear and come over to our side.
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We have pie .....
 
603 Country,

That's exactly what I need to do- buy a bunch of reloading gear and complicate my hobby and **** off my wife. :rolleyes:

But I'm betting that's exactly what I will do at some point in the future. :D

Not to hijack my own thread, but what is a good resource (other than this board) for a reloading newby- best reloading equipment, etc, etc...
 
Buzzdoc, you are going to now get tons of info on reloading recommendations. I don't think that it matters much what gear you buy, since it's all good stuff. You could go RCBS or Hornady or Lee and it'll all get you what you need. The Lee would be a bit cheaper. Buying the basic starter kit from any of the 3 mentioned will get you into action. And buy a Lyman #49 Reloading handbook. Once you've picked your caliber for the new rifle, the book will suggest powders and amounts of powder. As for discussions with the wife, be advised that if you don't shoot much reloading won't pay for itself for quite a while. If you do shoot a lot, you can make the claim that there is an economic payout for buying the gear. It might not be true, but you can at least claim it without being an outright liar. Buying used reloading gear can save you tons of money. And read the reloading books you buy before you get started, and/or have a reloader buddy show you the basics. Be safe.
 
As far as reloading equipment- any reason not to grab the RCBS equipment that my dad and I used 20 years ago that just sits in a drawer now unused- if I decide to start reloading?
 
As far as reloading equipment- any reason not to grab the RCBS equipment that my dad and I used 20 years ago that just sits in a drawer now unused- if I decide to start reloading?
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No, not one bit. My Rock Chucker is easily 20 years old and probably works better today than it did new.

If you decide on a Sako 75 in say .270 Win, let me know. I got one NIB that needs a home. Nothing wrong with a .270, its just a caliber I have no need for with all the 7mm/.284 stuff I own.
 
Of the rifles you mention I like the Winchester the best. The Sako has a great reputation, never shot one though.

As far as caliber, why not ask the folks you're going to hunt with in Alberta what they use?

The weak link in long distance shooting is usually the shooter, not the rifle or cartridge.
 
Buzzdoc if ammo price is a consideration I'd stay away from the short mags and go with the 7mm Rem Mag as others have suggested. Those short fat cartridges are kind of expensive.

I like all your rifle choices but if I had to pick one it would be the Winchester.

If you're shooting those Weatherby Mags I can't believe you have not got that reloading equipment out before now:D I have a Rockchucker that was purchased in the 70's and it's still going strong, you should not have any problems with it and if you do RCBS does a great job backing up their warranty.
 
RCBS is as good as any. I've used most every one of the older brands, going back to 1950 plus some inherited gear from way before then. I've bought used dies at gunshows, mostly to be able to check the inside of the sizing die for scratches. Otherwise, never a problem.

Point out to the BossLady that reloading saves money: Keeps you out of the beer joints and pool halls at night. :D

And, yeah, a 7Maggie is a good cartridge. I messed with one a bit, as well as a .264, but pretty much stayed with my '06. It worked okay in Ma Bell territory. :)
 
Out of the rifles you listed, I don't own any of them but my brother in law has the browning xbolt in 300 wsm. I've always been a rem 700 man myself but I recently shot his browning and that is one sweet gun. We were sighting in before deer season and he asked if I wanted to shoot his. Of course I'll shoot it I tell him but just give me 2 shells because I know they are high. Well I put both those bullets Into the same hole at 100 yards. We had to walk down there to confirm it and when we got back to the bench I told him give me another shell and let's see what happens. Same hole. Give me another shell, hell let's see how long I can keep this up. Finally on the fourth round I was off 1/2 inch. I'm 32 years old and been shooting bolt action rifles since I was about 8 and I've never shot a one hole 3 shot group until then. I mean, if they will shoot into 1 inch I'm plenty happy with that. Most of my shooting revolves around hunting out to about 200 yards so I have never gotten real serious with super small group size, but at least I know I'm capable.

Rifle was like I said browning x bolt in 300 wsm. Ammo was Winchester 150 grain ballistic silver tips.
 
I would suggest getting to within 200 yards of your deer. Its called hunting. You can use your Sako "something" in 30-06. :)
 
Selling the wife on reloading is easy. Just work up a spreadsheet to show her how much per round you will save. Just leave out the part that you will be shooting at least twice as much.:D
 
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