What part kits do I need to order from Cajun Gun Works to upgrade my new CZ P-01?

Hello,

Gentlemen,

I just got a new CZ P-01 9mm and I find the shape of weapon's stock trigger is uncomfortable for my hand.:(

I was wondering Cajun Gun works sells a wider design trigger available as a parts kit that includes a different hammer and a shorter trigger reset?:confused:

I would also like a spring kit that would give me a a lighter SA/DA trigger pull which would be lighter yet still safe for CCW use.

Anyone here know the part numbers and cost for the kits I should order?:confused:

How tough an installation is it?

Kindest regards,
 
Someone did warn ya the CZ trigger is terrible stock :)

Now if everyone was raving about CZ stock triggers, give them a pause for a second and consider the following from that guy that said the CZ triggers are terrible. Yeah, we're talking not massive trigger problems. But compared to others, yeah, they are worst of all production guns.

I personally think CZ reset is worst of all production options. Polymer P07/P09 series to current metal. Reset is unmatched in how terrible, maybe HK only being similar. Pull is heavy in DA. Even the 1,200 dollar Shadow has a reset Cajun Works option. On a race gun that doesn't come with a real decocker or fire pin block, the reset needs work. hmm...

If Cajun claims only 40% reduction in reset, that isn't going to make it like other current awesome resets. It might still be very bad.

The kits for trigger, short reset, improved trigger, or short reach kit...all are work. It's pretty involved compared to other guns. Youtube if you're going that direction. I didn't say impossible, or someone can't do it easily. But it would be hard to name another system that is going to be like this. Think Berretta "D" spring change being simplest, Sig SRT being more difficult but done in 10 minutes. CZ being most involved.

You can upgrade, but it may not be at level the internet claims to improve. The internet gun forms pointed you to the CZ being good right? You don't like it. The internet highly approves Cajun Works. There might be room to say it just isn't going to get "great" stock or improved with money into it that you won't get back out...

It might not even improve and cause dead triggers. Pre travel is required in the CZ design.
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=98486.0
 
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Hello Bennett Richards,

There are two elements to your question.

The simple one related to the shorter reset/smoother operation/lighter trigger desires.

I believe that CGW has only 2 parts kit options for your pistol: one is clearly explained as being 'competition only' and the other is more of a 'duty/carry' appropriate weight. Again, there are only two options- it isn't that tough.

All you do is select the 'find parts that fit my gun' and then identify your gun, then look for the proper parts kit listing in the menu.

As to your question about a wider trigger- I am not sure that anyone makes a truly 'wider' trigger.

  • I know of flatter triggers, which may feel wider, but not of any wider triggers.
  • I guess the question is 'what is it about the trigger that is uncomfortable'?
  • I DID change the triggers in all of mine, but I did this for length of pull/reach issues- not width issues. I needed the old-style 85 triggers as I have shorter-than-average fingers, and the factory trigger required me to shift my grip between DA and SA pulls for full control.

[Any of the CZ lineup with external thumb safeties [as opposed to decockers] also posed problems for me, as the reach to those was too far.]​


If it is a reach issue, then try the CZ 85 trigger to see how you like it. Call CGW before doing anything and ask for a tech to walk you through options.


As for Wild Cat's comments- they are both accurate but also a bit misleading.
The factory CZ trigger leaves a LOT to be desired. That I COMPLETELY agree with- or I wouldn't have done the CGW trigger job for all of mine.
  • I don't know what the points of comparison are, but a Makarov has by FAR the worst trigger pull in DA I've ever felt.
  • I know the BHP has a longer trigger reset than the CZ 75 series, and the BHP might be 'mushy' at the point of reset.
  • The Ruger P97 has a really long SA reset as well.
  • The Ruger LCP and one or two others have really long resets that are annoying, and I believe longer than the CZ.
  • These are factory guns that are worse.
What I am unclear of is what makes the CZ the worst- length? positivity of reset? What else?



It IS not the best- even after the CGW package. That honor is generally found in 1911 production handguns, or target-grade .22lr handguns [think High Standard 106 Trophy/Victor, S&W M41, or those European Trophy contest guns].

That said, the CGW package makes it VERY nice and is worth the upgrade if this is a 'keeper' for you. Just don't expect it to perform like a 1911.



In full transparency, I would rank the following guns, with the indicated work done to them, in the following order from best to worst.

1911 with tuned EGW ignition parts:
smoothest/crispest SA trigger break and shortest reset. weight- depends on gun. Some of mine are around 3.25lbs and others [carry] around 4.5lbs. Safety feels 'natural' and grip doesn't feel over-large.​

Beretta 92 G-SD LTT job [Langdon trigger bar and Wilson hammer, 14lb hammer]:
long DA pull, that seems to have a hint of resistance [rub on grip?] and seems to stack a hint- but shortest reset of any semi-auto I've used other than a 1911 or custom tuned 22lr. If fired in SA mode ONLY [and you ride the reset], this will be right there with 1911s for the best trigger. With Langdon thin grips, I can touch my middle finger to my thumb, and the grip feels good. trigger is relatively light in DA, and nice in SA. I'd guesstimate weights at around 8.5lbs/DA and 3.75lbs/SA.
A bit more DA resistance than the CZ Duty/Carry setup.​


Sig P226 with Short Reach Trigger [thin] and Short Reset Trigger installed, 19lb hammer spring:
DA feels about 40% of Beretta DA pull [shorter than CZ], reset feels a hint shorter than CZ, but not as short as Beretta. DA pull feels 'better' to me than Beretta- both weight and no confusing sense of resistance. SA feels light but not TOO light. I'd guesstimate weights as around 7.5lbs/DA and around 3.5lbs/SA. E2 grips leave me feeling in complete control.​


CZ SP01 with CGW duty/carry type setup, and 14lb hammer spring:
DA pull feels about 60% of the length of the Beretta {IOW- shorter feel of DA pull than Beretta, but longer than Sig], but reset, while short [like- almost Sig SRT short], is about 2-3 times more motion than the Beretta. It isn't bad, but it clearly has a longer reset. I'd guesstimate DA pull around 6.5-7lbs and SA pull around 3.5lbs. SA trigger break is crisper with CGW setup than factory, but still not as crisp as Sig or Beretta setups above. It IS crisp enough for most people's recreational/SD use- but might bug a self-professed trigger snob like me in the long run. [my good friend can't feel a difference- they are all 'great' to him!] This is the Safety model- but the trigger feels the same on my CZ PCR with CGW Duty/Carry setup. Thin, grip reducing grips. Feels thinner than the Beretta and 'better' than the Sig P226 with E2 grips, but safety [CZ Gun Works wide extended- as it is only one that works for my hands] feels more awkward than any other thumb safety I have used- except slide-mounted safeties.​

BHP with tuned Garthwaite trigger [with overtravel] and hammer, and EGW sear, 28lb hammer spring:
SA pull is around 5.75lbs but crisp. Lighter is harder to achieve without seeking a gunsmith. Reset is long and ambiguous, unless changing springs- which makes SA pull closer to 8lbs. Safety lever can feel ambiguous about on/off if not set up right. More SA takeup than 1911, for obvious design reasons. HOWEVER, overall feel of pistol in hand feels better to me than CZ/Sig/Beretta. Admittedly, this could be because of my shorter than average finger to palm ratio. This one does not require special grips or triggers to feel 'right' in my hand.​


I am not comparing overtravel and pretravel settings, as I am comparing DA/SA to SA handguns. The DA/SA ones will obviously have to have more pretravel in SA mode than the 1911, even when I converted an SP01 to ONLY SA.


I hope this helps.
 
Great follow up. I didn't think comparing the LCP to a P-01 was my intention though.

For similar sized, the CZ triggers are the worst. Full size or compact, there just aren't worse factory triggers.

Someone said they are heavy on purpose. That simply is a projection of opinion. Beretta sells a comp kit for the APX/PX4. Sig sells the SRT and EAP.

CZ doesn't sell "improvements" but different models. Heck, there was a P-01 made with a hugely heavier trigger for contract.

I think it's worth knowing that in the post I had, there are also risks in going with even vanilla Cajun Work stuff. You can end up with all that work and a dead trigger. But we don't hear that often, but it can happen.
 
^^^^
Lol

Over a dozen CZ pistols, all but 1 is modified by either CGW or CGW parts done by me. From 97, shadow 2, compacts, safety and decocker Omega system, if you are getting dead triggers it's because you failed to order the parts, failed to fit the disco or the trigger bar spring is not adjusted right.
 
Go post that on the CZ forum. They came up with zero answers like yours and suggested it wasn't entirely uncommon.

But if you claim you've modified all your CZs, that also proves the point that they are pretty junk from the get go for triggers. That includes, as you mentioned, a 1200 dollar "race gun" built by CZ to have a good trigger...eek.
 
The OP already owns the pistol. Rather than continue to go on about the quality of factory CZ triggers, let’s provide meaningful information as some of these comments are moot.

I’ve done the CGW route. I found their customer service very good and David Miliam even walked me through some things over the phone, which other companies (LTT) flat out refused to do. That said I found the parts for CZs were not as drop in as those from other companies. There are plenty of guides out there, written and video, so if you do it yourself look around for some resources to help.


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No, I agree with you TunnelRat, but I've pointed out that Bennett needs to look at the descriptions posted by Cajun works. 40% reduction of reset for the reset kit. Given the reset on a CZ is SO long. 40% is a lot of distance change because you start out with so much. But is it going to make it "good" by other gun standards today? Probably not.

I too cautioned these kits are more involved to install than any other type.

When you add two different kits, you're into half the price of the new Beretta 92X which uses the better/small V frame (modeled towards a 1911 grip). Standard with RDO. D spring already included.

I don't know. Like you both said, if the internals are giving you pause on quality...dumping money into it to love it might be less "feel good" then you think. Also, gun forums pointed you towards the CZ. TunnelRat and I both had...not negatives, but cautions. That's words in mouth of TunnelRat, he just said stock grips are thick. I'll give you caution again. The CGW kits might not be all that and a bag of chips in the end either. By design, the CZ HAS to hammer cam and HAS to have a health pre travel. An 85 trigger might change your dislike of the thin stock trigger. That alone isn't going to change reset or pull weight that you mentioned you didn't like.

Can't recall Bennett if you ever said it was a standard or Omega version...
 
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No, I agree with you TunnelRat, but I've pointed out that Bennett needs to look at the descriptions posted by Cajun works. 40% reduction of reset for the reset kit. Given the reset on a CZ is SO long. 40% is a lot of distance change because you start out with so much. But is it going to make it "good" by other gun standards today? Probably not.

I too cautioned these kits are more involved to install than any other type.

When you add two different kits, you're into half the price of the new Beretta 92X which uses the better/small V frame (modeled towards a 1911 grip). Standard with RDO. D spring already included.

I’ve had the CGW kit. To me it made a noticeable difference and it seemed to me that was what the OP was asking. Whether that difference makes it as good or better than other options is frankly subjective, the only person that will be able to answer that is the OP. I say this as someone that has seen people on this forum argue emphatically that one trigger is better than another, only to find for myself that it didn’t seem that different. I’m of the opinion that way more is made out of triggers than is generally noticeable at the range. I say this as someone that currently owns SIGs, HKs, and Berettas all with match trigger kits and has had CZs with CGW kits. The trigger is also only one factor. I find there are other factors that make more of a difference than the trigger. I personally don’t like the “better”/small V frame of the Beretta 92X as opposed to the standard Beretta, but I know others do. Again, subjectivity comes into all of this.

If your argument is the OP is better off selling the pistol and going a different direction that’s certainly an option. I say this as someone that often did that in the past, I think it’s worth trying the trigger kit first. The number of times I have sold a pistol and then wished I had given it more time or tried a certain part is almost embarrassing at this point. Having to buy back a pistol just to try out the thing I should have tried the first time isn’t something I’ve enjoyed. There’s a fair point that sometimes it’s best to cut your losses, but if there is something about the pistol the OP finds appealing then I think giving it time is worth it. I currently put ~1000 rd through a pistol before I sell it. There were pistols I didn’t care for in the first hundred rounds, but liked near the end, and vice versa. Selling a pistol that you’ve bought and only ever dry fired or handled is to me a wasted opportunity. It’s already used. A person can keep it in Excellent condition even with a number of rounds through it and hopefully giving it some time allows that person to make a better evaluation.

In the comment you responded to I made some edits. What I edited was that I feel like you primarily show up on threads about CZs to explain to everyone how and why you don’t like CZs. To an extent that’s fair, this is a discussion forum after all and for someone looking to make a purchase the negatives should be considered. But such behavior can also become as tiring as the fans that only have good things to say. I am at the point now where I reluctantly read CZ threads on this forum as it will inevitably be you and chevelle going back and forth, but maybe the OPs find value in that.


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I hated the trigger shape on my basic CZ SP01 Shadow and it supposedly came with a trigger that was less curved than the standard SP01.

I ended up getting the CGW "old style" trigger and I like it much better. It was pretty much a PIA to install and would not recommend being installed by someone who does not have some basic experience working on pistols and VERY small parts. By contrast the trigger swap on my SIG SP2022 was a breeze. Thrigger swap on a CZ P01 may be easier however and the really tiny part I mentioned was part of the safety assembly for the left side on the CZ SP01 Shadow.

CJW (Cajun Gun Works) does sell a variety of trigger though and I was mostly concerned about not having such a curved trigger. I still prefer the trigger shape on my SIG P226 though which also is wider that the CGW trigger I intalled.

I also highly recommend the CGW floating trigger pin and the pin punch they sell to remove the original trigger pin that is in there pretty tight.

I really like my CZ SP01 Shadow a lot and it is a fine pistol and terrfic shooter but am not looking to buy another CZ at this point and personally prefer my classic P series SIGs and HKs as far as combat style hammer fired pistols go but there are a lot of fine choices these days for sure for most everyones preference.

The reset is still pretty long on my basic SP01 Shadow (the trigger swap has nothing to do with that though). It was also long on my P226 but I was stunned show short it was after installing the Short Reset Kit from SIG which was pretty easy. Reset on my P226 is just a tad longer than my Walther PPQ now. Not sure if that is to be expected in general when installing in a P226. My P226 was one the very first ones made in USA in the late 90s and has not rail

CGW does sell hammer springs and short reset kits too but I have no experience with them. Just read full information about any springs you are considering as some require a different firing pin spring also to insure relaibility with lighter hammer springs.

CGW links:

https://cajungunworks.com/product/75585-85c-old-style-trigger/?attribute_color=Stainless+Steel

https://cajungunworks.com/product/5-oem-thick-trigger/ --- the other trigger I was considering.

https://cajungunworks.com/product/floating-trigger-pin/

https://cajungunworks.com/product/sp-forged-steel-starter-punch/

My CZ SP01 Shadow with the new trigger.

wZyZhZO.jpg
 
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Sure! I replaced grips on it though. I got the SIG Aluminum grips on closeout from SIG for half price. Now they are in high demand and bring a pretty penny by themselves.

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Thanks for all of the input guys... I kind of figured the Trigger in the weapon would be pretty bad but I figure it's a pretty much a basic no frills combat weapon. the pulls on my USP 40 and P2000sk 40 are much better... But they are nowhere near my series 1 Kimber compact stainless 45... Or my S&W 629-4 Trail Boss. There is a LGS here that is an authorized CGW dealer/installer I will buy the CGW parts and have them installed.
 
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