what muzzle brake???

N

Nitescout

New member
I recently purchased a new Rem 700 AAC, in .308 Win...It has the 20" barrel with threaded muzzle...I had an AR 10 flash suppressor on it for a while...
till I took it to the range...

My 168 Sierra match bullets were leaving an oval hole in the target...as opposed to round holes with the thread protector in place...any thoughts on a good muzzle brake that doesn`t cause Keyholeing???
 
I've not heard of muzzle brakes being able to cure unstable bullet flight. Have you tried other bullets in your rifle?
 
If you plan to shoot at a public range, NONE.

Besides, I agree with AllenJ. Never heard of a brake currently poor bullet flight.
 
Is the bullet hitting the brake? I've got brakes on about everything and the only issue ever was on one off-center allowing a bit of contact causing what you refer to. It only takes a slight brushing against the brake to do it.
 
Never heard of a brake inducing poor flight unless it's not threaded square and is causing interference or imbalance in pressure around the bullet.

I have Vais brakes on my guns, they don't cure the recoil like an APA style brake does, but they also don't blow your neighbors ears off either. My rifles are hunting rifles though so I'm not looking for the ultimate in recoil reduction. I had to leave a range one day cause my neighbors were doing mag dumps w braked AR-10's. It was awful.


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Muzzle brakes can help or harm accuracy. Assuming it is not installed incorrectly, the effect on accuracy is real. The "boss" system is a good example of this. Anytime you add a weight to the end of your barrel, you effect the harmonics of that barrel. How that change in harmonic will effect accuracy will not be known until after you do it and test it.
 
the flash suppressor I was using was for an AR10...I didn`t Have the correct crush washer to index the suppressor correctly...Having no slots in the bottom to keep dirt out of your eyes when shooting prone, is normal for the AR type flash suppressors...I`m not familiar with muzzle brakes, but I`ve seen pictures of some with holes instead of slots...hoping they might not affect bullet .

I`m old, and retired, and don`t want to spend the money for a silencer or noise suppressor...

I can just shoot it as it came from Remington...It shoots just fine with the thread protector, but the 20" barrel has a pretty good blast when I pull the trigger.

Thanks to all for your input.
 
A muzzle brake doesn't cause keyholing. Keyholing is caused by undersized bullets, oversized bore and sometimes velocity. A muzzle brake affects none of that. Have a look at the crown though.
A muzzle brake will not reduce the muzzle blast of a 20" barrel. Usually redirects it towards the shooter and everyone close to him.
"...Is the bullet hitting the brake?..." That will cause instant permanent damage to the break. Even with just a bit of contact.
 
Agree something else is causing your key-holing other than suppressor/brake, probably something to do with the bore before the bullet leaves the muzzle (or undercharged cartridge).

PS heard of "over-spinning" a bullet too; destabilizing it.
 
T. Oheir...You may be onto something...I checked the suppressor I had on the rifle...The bore is big enough to slide a 3/8 bolt through with room to spare...but when I rechecked the crown...I found there is no crown...no counter-bore...no recess crown...Just a flat cut barrel...

It has the factory blue, and hasn`t been messed with...I`m curious now...Is this the way they come from the factory??? I`ve had several 700 Rems, but they have all had some kind of crown or counter bore.

does anyone out there have a 700 AAC??? when I ordered mine they were only available in 300 Blackout, and 308 Win...I think I saw a post on here that someone had the AAC in .223. It would be good to hear if they all have a flat cut threaded muzzle, or did I just get lucky and receive one that wasn`t finished???
 
Stagpanther...

You may be onto something as well...The barrel is stamped "1in 10" Tactical Rifling"...I`ve never heard of tactical rifling before...Not sure what that means...
 
Stagpanther...

You may be onto something as well...The barrel is stamped "1in 10" Tactical Rifling"...I`ve never heard of tactical rifling before...Not sure what that means...
Click to expand...
My guess is that's fancy talk for fast twist appropriate for larger bullets in longer range applications. Your 168 MK's certainly should perform adequately in that kind of twist (not key-holing anyway)--though maybe even a 175/180 might be something worth trying. Bore sizes of muzzle devices usually are bigger than your barrel's bore--nor do I think the flat muzzle end (unless there is some damage to it or the rifling) would destabilize your bullet that much. Might be worth getting a bore scope inside to see what condition the bore and/or rifling is in.
 
Distinction needs to be pointed out here...
"Muzzle devices" is a generic term that shouldn't even exist IMO, and let's not use the following terms interchangeably, because they're different animals.

"Flash Hiders" are designed to obscure the muzzle flash (shooter's location at night) and have exit holes you can drive a semi through.

"Brakes" are generally only .020-.040 overbore, meaning concentricity and quality of the machining are critical so that the gases are directed evenly and will not push the base of the bullet off axis as it exits the bore.

"Suppressors" , or "Silencers" require even tighter concentricity tolerances due to their length and baffles. These are classified NFA (for now).


I do know that poorly designed/machined brakes can/will affect accuracy (most brakes will affect POI, but not accuracy) but I have not heard of that happening with a flash hider. Honestly, a flash hider is for tacticool looks unless you're trying to hide your position from the enemy...lose it, and your problem. Put the thread protector on the muzzle or fit it with a quality brake.

The 700 SPS Tactical AAC-SD was factory threaded- I have no idea how they crowned it, but given that it was designed to have a thread protector, or "muzzle device" (damn I hate that word) on it- it wouldn't have needed a recessed crown;; they're primarily to protect crowns that are normally exposed. Yours is most likely the way it left the factory.

Far as a "good brake", this is a worthwhile read:

http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/08/21/muzzle-brake-summary-of-field-test-results/
 
It looks like I`ve got a lot of work or experimenting to do...The bore looks good with a bore light, but I`ll have to find a bore scope to really see anything.

since this is still a new gun, I`ve only got about 40 rounds through it...I plan to load up some different weight bullets, and see what happens...

I was able to remove about .004 from the crush washer which now lets the flash suppressor index properly...

I`ll try shooting with and without the suppressor and see what happens.

Thanks for all the input!!!
 
I don't know that close tolerance of bore size of an effective brake to barrel bore size really has all that much to do with it's effectiveness, at least in my experience (other than to ensure no bullet strike).

Some of the best results I've had with muzzle brakes have been using Kahntrol brakes, which generally have rather large overlapping caliber bore dimensions. https://kahntrol.com/threaded-muzzle-brakes/
 
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