What mauser action from SARCO do i want for winter build.

S

superfast61821

New member
I am wanting to start a new winter project and am thinking of a mauser build. I noticed that SARCO has several mauser actions in different configurations and i am trying to determine what one to purchase. I am not looking to sink a lot of money into this project all i am looking to do is install a barrel and apply a finish and punch holes in a target with good consistancy. I don't own a lathe or any other specialized gunsmithing tools. I do have a vise, drillpress and common hand tools. I realize the the barrel will come short chambered and that I will have to have that finish chambering and headspacing done locally. My caliber of choice is going to be either the .308 or .270 not sure yet.
I need to know which action is going to be my best choice to drop into an ATI stock and will hold up to the caliber types i am trying to decide between.
i will also have it drilled and tapped for a scope as well as remove the feeding area for stripper clips.
Again please let me know what Action to choose and any personal build experiences that might help me along the way.
Thanks.
 
Nothing less than a 98 action. However a 98 will handle anything you want to make out of it. Building a rifle from the ground up is expensive. I know, I've done it three times. It's been awhile since I've priced any of this work but even at old prices you're looking at 4-500 bucks minimum. Don't make the mistake of having the bolt handle rebent. Replace it with a custom handle.
 
If you can find one without the thumb cut for stripper clip loading, they are much more rigid than ones with the cut.
 
Probably an idea choice for you would be one of the Sarco Yugo M48 short actions. This would be ideal for the 308 or 270.
My second choice would be the Mauser '98 Special, or the standard M98 action.
Be aware that most Sarco actions will likely have pitting under the wood line.

As above, the Mauser 1898 is the way to go. It's the final "perfected" bolt action rifle the Mauser brothers designed.

Remember, you're going to need a real gunsmith's barrel vise and action wrench if you intend to remove the barrel and put a new on on.
Under NO circumstances can this be done with some type of "expedient" tooling.
The barrels are in TIGHT, and the actions are very soft and easy to bend, but with a glass-hard case hardened coating on the surface.
If you have a local gunsmith with the tools, let him do it.

Also as above, it's less damaging to simply cut the bolt handle off, leaving a 1/2" inch or longer stub, and have a new handle welded on.
In the old days we heated the bolt root with a torch and bent and forged the handle to clear a scope, but this can do real damage to the heat treating of the bolt, especially in the cocking cam area.
 
rifle build

Sir:
With ANY action when you get it you need to make a mandrel and lock it in the bolt-way and just face off the front of the action ring till it's "true" all the way around,,
Then, with a depth micrometer, measure down to the inner shoulder all around except where the extractor cut is - if it's even, then fit the bb. to both inner and outer shoulders - that's great! But, if your inner shoulder is uneven (most are) then fit to the front shoulder only since it's lined up with the bolt-way and the center line of the action. Let the tennon come within a thousandths of the highest place on the inner shoulder (this fit is as good as the Model 70, the Rem. 700 etc.)
Then insert stripped bolt and measure down to it (after making sure BOTH lugs bear) and record that measurement - then the other measurement to the inner shoulder - that is the close protrusion of the cartridge head (or headspace guage) out of the bbl. generally around .100 thou, plus or minus)Final headspace is set upon assembly and you should be able to FEEL the bolt close lightly on the new factory cartridge (or have NO play on the "go" headspace guage). It shouldn't close on the "no-go" guage!
This is important.
Harry B.
 
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