What makes a good holster?

P

Pond James Pond

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Note: not "Who makes", not "What make is good"

Instead, rather than relying on other people's opnions of a product, I want to see what characteristics contribute to making a holster good at what it does. You can focus on kydex over leather, or leather over kydex if you like, but let's keep it to the pricinples of good holster design and contruction.

In other words, what should I look for?
 
I will limit my answers to IWB and OWB, because pocket and other modes have different requirements.

1. It should keep the weapon secure. I prefer holsters that cover the trigger, to prevent possible foreign object intrusion and impingement. I prefer tension hold over thumb snap types, but others like snaps.

2. It should have a reinforced mouth, to facilitate one-handed re-holstering by feel (for example, if you have a BG proned out, and the police are inbound; you want a holstered weapon when they arrive, but do not want to take eyes off the BG).

3. In conjunction with a good, stiff belt, it should keep the weapon fairly immobile relative to the wearer. Guns moving around on flexing belts, in flimsy holsters, conceal poorly and feel heavier than they are.

4. It should allow a consistently smooth draw. This favors holsters with a rigid or reinforced sight channel, and - again - a rigid or reinforced mouth.

5. It should allow moisture to drain, for obvious reasons.
 
Good advice so far and I’ll just sort of concur with the need for a good belt to go with the holster. Also, if you go IWB remember this may mean getting slightly larger pants to accommodate the holster.
 
#2 confuses me. If the badguy was such a threat that you had to draw your gun on him, why would you want to holster said weapon before your help even arrives?
 
DasGuy, all things being equal, when my wife, the store manager, or whatever good guy I am with says "the police are here," I will holster if feasible. Otherwise, I am the "man with gun" they first see... It is a matter of risk analysis.
 
#2 confuses me. If the badguy was such a threat that you had to draw your gun on him, why would you want to holster said weapon before your help even arrives?
Click to expand...

So when the cavalry arrives you don't get shot, ordered to drop "YOUR GUN" and then get on the ground. Thats how I see it.
 
James:

Unless I missed it, are you asking for a concealed carry holster or an outside the pants belt holster?

Either way, simplicity and retention would be key features. If you dig around the internet, you can find stories of someone getting hurt because they were busy fussing with some fancy holster, but couldn't draw their pistol in a timely manner.

I carry a Glock 26 in a simple Galco IWB holster, and it has worked well for me. The pistol doesn't move, and the utter simplicity of the design makes it thin, so it hides.

I also carry a Glock 20 when hiking, and here I found a Bianchi that works very well. It is an updated version of the "widow maker" that the US military used for years with the M9 Beretta. It covers the pistol well, protecting the muzzle but still allowing a rapid draw. The "update" is a plastic block under the trigger guard that prevents someone from drawing the pistol from behind you without opening the flap. The tough Cordura construction means it will hold up to the weather, and anything else you run into.

Also of minor interest: some manufacturers claim that horsehide resists human sweat better than cow leather. Something to think about if looking for an IWB holster, perhaps.
 
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Hi Toolguy'!

Well, I am actually interested in IWB, but I had left that out intentionally as I wanted to know more about the "qualities" I should look for in a holster, rather than the brands of holsters.

Where I live there is limited choice, and whilst the likes of the Galco seems very interesting, but no one sells it (as far as I know). So better I know why a Galco, or Bladetech or Don Hume etc is good, rather than that it simply is good. The idea being I can then have a set of criteria to consider when looking at those brands and models that I can get over here.
 
Don Hume. JIT Slide. Leather, gun fits tight and secure and no strap, thumbbreak or anything to slow one down. A great deal and Cheap! Order them online of course midway USA has them
 
MLeake pretty well covered it. The only addition I might make is, that the holster have a ear high enough, between your body and the top of the gun, to keep the gun pinching your body.
 
Good point, P97. Sam Andrews calls that a bodyshield, I think; other manufacturers call it a bodyshield or bodyguard. Good not only against pinching, but to minimize lube stains on your shirts.
 
James:

I don't know if this is possible where you live, but this is how I purchased my concealed carry holster.

I packed my pistol down to a local store that carries a large selection of holsters, and after checking with the management, simply brought my pistol in and tried different holsters. I spent an hour or so shopping around the store while wearing different holsters, checking each for comfort, and how well they "hid". Like buying most things, a large part of the equation is simply what works for you.
 
Signs of a good carry holster...

I've been around shooting/firearms since the early 1980s.
I've packed & owned a # of different holsters over the years and can provide this input(NOTE; this is for duty/concealed carry rigs only not field/range/military systems)...
A good holster should be able to allow a one-handed re-holster. Author & lethal force instructor Massad Ayoob made that point.
A duty/carry rig should allow quick access to the firearm with either hand quickly. Wounded or weak hand draws are rarely used by citizens but it could be a life saving skill in a critical incident.
A high quality leather, polymer, rubber, nylon, etc. Cheap materials or designs will wear out or fail with regular use. Check the fit & quality. Some "top shops" like Mitch Rosen, Kramer, Milt Sparks, etc only use certain types of leather from certain areas of the steer or cow. Horsehide is better but may cost more.
Kramer also uses Chicago screws over snaps with to me is better. Even Kydex holsters can have minor problems. A small screw came out of my Blade-tech holster for my Ruger GP revolver.
Holsters should protect the front/rear sights & protect the weapon from bumps, shocks, nicks, scuffs, etc. Many gunners like open style holsters but I'd prefer to protect a $900-1200.00 firearm from damage.
Remember the basic rule of engineering; the more parts mean the more things that can break or fail. I'd be hard pressed to carry a level III or IV type duty rig. A solid level II style with a frame mounted ambi safety is good for me in 90-95% of my job uses. Weapon retention is important but you must also consider time if you are drawing a concealed firearm.
Pistol lanyards have value too but that's mostly for marine/boating type places or in PSC/military type environments.
Finally make sure the holster fits or can wear on the belt. Some loops or straps break or wear out. Inspect the design or fit to insure it can work correctly.
Inspect & clean holsters too. Crud, dust, gun oil, etc can collect in gear & holsters.
CF
www.safariland.com www.donhume.com www.mitchrosen.com www.blackhawk.com www.blade-tech.com www.comholsters.com
 
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