What load to cycle an 1100?

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baddarryl

New member
I have a 1979 12 ga that I bought a year or two ago. I have had some issues with FTE, and FTF. I had a new carrier put in it and mag spring to hopefully solve this, but haven't tested it yet. I was reading about light loads and how some guns are designed to work with certain loads. I will primarily only ever use this gun for clays or doves so I have never paid attention to loads that much (not a competitor). Even with 8 or 9 shot should I put the heavier loads in it to maybe help with the cycling?

On another note, the first time I ever shot it it performed flawlessly. These issues only came up after a field strip cleaning. When I pivot the gun up or down I can hear something sliding inside. Is this normal?
 
It should cycle anything down to 1 oz loads...shot size doesn't make any difference, it's the weight of the shot charge. Check the gas ports on this gun. If they are plugged up they will restrict the pressure needed to cycle the gun. I had an 1100SA Skeet that went over 4,000 rounds without cleaning to see how long it would go before it stopped working. All were 1oz skeet loads. I'm guessing the ports are plugged. Did you check the "O" ring?
 
When I pivot the gun up or down I can hear something sliding inside. Is this normal?
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More than likely the piston rings sliding up and down on the tube. If so then yes, it's normal. Too, make sure you have the rings inst'd correctly. Here is the manual for the 1100: http://users.dls.net/~rdouglas/Rem_1100_Notes__Rev_with_Pix_of_Disassembly.pdf...

Look down at section 20 and note positioning of rings.

Also, there are many vids. on youtube that will show you the proper sequence.
 
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Most standard field 12 gauge 1100s will run anything down to 7/8 ounce loads without issues. Skeet barrels have bigger ports and will usually run even less. If yours isn't, something is wrong. It may be the gas ports, or it may be the all too common issue of a gunked up action spring assembly. I also wonder what you did in your "field strip cleaning".
 
I took it apart according to the manual cleaned everything, lubed it to spec etc. I was also very careful according to o ring positioning at the time. Going take it all apart and double check everything again.
 
I was also very careful according to o ring positioning at the time. Going take it all apart and double check everything again.
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Just a reminder...pay particular attention on which way you install the piston rings.
 
The size of the shot has nothing to do with how your gun functions - the weight(mass) of the payload and its velocity has everything to do with it. Are your gas ports cleaned out completely? Are you trying to use a magnum barrel for light target loads? As mentioned, are the two brass piston parts installed correctly? FTF and FTE are mostly caused by one, or all, of those possibilities.

I had an 1100 in 28 gauge that would shoot my normal reloads and have the empties land 2' away, while the Win AA sporting load empties were ejected into the next county. Hopefully those fast factory loads didn't beat up the gun too much - and that can happen, especially if folks start using lesser springs.

I found a good stiff pipe cleaner worked on my gas ports. There are certain drill bits that are the exact diameter of the gas ports (and I do not remember which wire size they are) but those can be used by pushing them hand (do NOT use a drill) to get any caked-on gunk that might be clogging the ports

Good luck, the 1100 makes a great clays gun
 
There are certain drill bits that are the exact diameter of the gas ports (and I do not remember which wire size they are) but those can be used by pushing them hand (do NOT use a drill) to get any caked-on gunk that might be clogging the ports
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Good point BigD

Bit sizes for two gas ports on 1100 2 3/4 chambered 12ga. are:

#47 drill bit for 22"-34" bbls

#44 drill bit for skeet bbls.

The 1100 magnum(3" chambered) that has only one gas port is a different hole size all together.
 
When I pivot the gun up or down I can hear something sliding inside. Is this normal?
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Yep, there was an old saying:

"If it rattles, it's a Remington" ..........that's the two part brass piston assembly

I am betting if the ports aren't clogged, that the assembly was reassembled with one part placed incorrectly - it is just too easy to do
 
When I pivot the gun up or down I can hear something sliding inside. Is this normal?
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Yes, if the rings don't slide freely, then the gas works needs some attention. One common R-1100 problem is over oiling the mag tube -- it will quickly become fouled. Oil the tube, then wipe it.
 
If you have a brass piston or piston seal save them. They are collectors items. I have sold or worked on hundreds of 1100s and have never seen or heard of anything but steel.
 
The 1100 magnums only shot 3 in magnum shells. They will not cycle a shorter non magnum round. It will say magnum on the barrel
 
Maybe. I have had four 1100 Magnums. One ran like a champ with 1-1/8 ounce loads. Two would run with 1-1/4 ounce hi velocity field loads, and one would run with fine with 1-3/8 ounce loads. Remington advertised them as being suitable for all 2-3/4 and 3 inch magnum loads, and they all run fine with those. I will also say Magnum on the receiver. With a 2-3/4" chambered barrel, it will run fine with anything I have tried, but I am not much for the mouse fart loads.
I do not think you need a Sure-Cycle system or anything else. I have had 12 of them and no issues other than a fore end support (1st generation) that had a weld cracking so I replaced it, and a broken extractor in 1982.
 
^^^Have found the same with my 1100 mag.. It will shoot Rem. or Win. 2 3/4" high brass as good as the 3" magnum loads and yes, shoots 2 3/4 slugs just fine when 2 3/4 slug bbl is inst'd.
Seems I did get a box of game loads that wouldn't cycle some years back but don't remember what kind.
 
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Dry is a relative term. I spray everything with RemOil and wipe off all the excess, but there is a film left. I used to use WD-40 and have never had any issues in 50 years. Some folks like wet, but I have shot a lot of Blue Dot and that makes mud if it's wet.
 
I just put it back together after thinking I oiled it last time not believing that a gun can run dry! Duh. Gonna run it dry and see. Everything appear to be put together right.
 
Running it wet will tend to clog the gas ports up prematurely.

Like V-in-LA, I take a very lightly oiled rag and wipe the tube leaving a very light coat of oil.

By chance have you tried any different brands of shells?
 
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