What kind of adhesive to use on a slipping scope?

Capt Rick Hiott

New member
Let me start out by saying that I don't want to buy new rings unless I absolutely have to.


What kind of adhesive would you use inside the rings to cure slippage.

scopeslip.jpg
 
If the "hole" in the rings is larger than the scope tube diameter, no adhesive will work, because there is insufficient clamp-up.

From the picture, it appears there is no gap between the upper half and lower half of the ring.

If that is true, remove the upper half.

Place a sheet of 240 grit sandpaper on a flat surface (like a table top).

Place the upper half on the sandpaper, mating surface down, and work it in circular motions. The objective is to remove a small amount of metal from the interface between the ring halves. This will allow proper clamp-up to the scope tube.

Test fit and repeat until there is a small gap between the upper and lower ring halves.
 
Thanks,,,but its a bad picture. The top ring is not touching the bottom. My dad was a machinist, so I can understand where your coming from with that. Ive done it before. (Used a panel of glass to make sure it was flat)

I'm gonna take it apart, clean it real good and use some powered rosin on it.
 
I've used black friction tape between scope and rings. Worked perfectly. Retighten after a day or two as the tape compresses.
 
You can also use a thin layer of ordinary rubber cement. Put a layer on each side of both rings and let it almost dry before putting it all back together. It will give it enough grip to hold the tube and will peel off when you no longer want it.
 
Jut put a drop of LocTite under the rings before you tighten them, then make sure you tighten them well. I use blue, you can use any type you want.
 
Piece of electrical tape, friction tape, LocTight, rubber cement all will work. However what I don’t understand is, if the ring halves are not touching why can’t you tighten the rings up enough to stop the slipping? :confused:
 
Capt Rick Hiott
This is a common problem
place a little lock tight red on the mating surface between the scope and rings

I tighten aluminum ring screws 10-15 inch-lbs. and steel ring screws tighten 15-20 inch-lbs.
Alternate the tightening sequence also.

base screws to 12-15 in/lbs.

I like to use lock tight blue on the screws.
On the bases I spread a little lock tight red on the action side then place the bases on top of the lock tight as well.
Jerry45 said Piece of electrical tape, friction tape, LocTight, rubber cement all will work.
he's right!
Remember it is hard to crush a tube, but I have seen it done even on a Weaver steel tube. just use some sense while tightening them up.;)

Edward5759
 
Many ways to skin this cat !!

I'm not sure what Y'all are calling friction tape but I have used electrical tape and it works. Try to get the clrear tape and it won't show as bad. Not sure exactly what they call it but Scotch-33 comes to mind. Another tape that I use is the double sticky tape. this is the tape they use to put poly film on windows. Get the outdoor reated. ..... ;)


Be Safe !!!
 
Friction tape is made of fabric of some kind , slightly stickey on both sides . It's what electricans used before electrical tape .
 
They are tight,,,I guess I can tighten them until I crush the scope tube............

The ring screws should be torqued to between 15 and 20 inch pounds. I just can’t imagine why the scope would slide if the rings or screws are not bottomed out and the rings are tight.
 
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If it’s a large difference ring diameter to scope diameter use thin shim stock. If it’s a very small difference use aluminum duct tape. Shim stock is available in many thickness', aluminum tape runs about .002 to .004 thousandths. Both work much better than plastic or cloth tape. I’ve used both many times and never had problem.
 
Good option !!

If it’s a very small difference use aluminum duct tape.
Interesting as I have never thought of this use or had to. Will keep it in mind as I see that it could be used for shimming. Thanks for this reply .... :)


Be Safe !!!
 
I have tried the electrical tape. It might work some places, but it didn't work for me here where it gets over 100 degrees. It kinda squished and oozed out. I did find that masking tape worked great and it leaves no goo or marks on the scope tube.
 
I've used a stuff called Black Max. It's a thicker , gel-like version of Super Glue.

Make sure surfaces are clean of oil and dry.
 
Your issue is either clamp load on the screws or fit of the rings to the scope.

First, I would check the torque on the rings. To do that, tighten to a certain torque. Basspro says,"Most manufacturers recommend tightening base screws to 12-15 in/lbs."

Then remeasure that torque after 24 hours. It should drop less than 20%. Ideally, less than 10%. Then measure in 1 week. It should not drop any more.


Second, I would try lapping the rings. Improving this fit will improve friction and that should also improve torque loss some.

Last, I would try 4 screw or 6 screw rings as they will drastically increase clamping load on the scope.

On hard kickers, after torque testing proves the rings ok, I would final assemble with just a drop of locktite. The firing cycle will loosen good rings due to the cyclical nature of it. After you have proven the clamp load will stay, you want to make sure the screws will stay put.

BTW, what caliber, approximate rifle weight, scope weight, etc are we talking about. This advice would be much different for 22lr or 460 Weatherby!
 
Actually the "blue Locktite" is the way to go,,,,, only after you hunt down the manufactures suggested torque settings. Leupold prints theirs right on the ring package so there will no mistaking it.;) As far as tape goes, throw that crap in the trash man. The easiest way to get proper mounting techniques ito read or go on the internet to "You Tube" and look up Midways "How to" videos....... I have never seen anybody use any kind of tape, because with the proper techniques there is no need.;)
 
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