what improves a revolver?

C

canuck1911

New member
I just got a S&W 625 w. 3" barrel. I plan on getting it ported by magnaport. Its my first revolver, and I was wondering what other "custom" work people recommend be done? Trigger job? Action Job? I'm unfamiliar with revolvers, and am not sure what is worth doing, and what the benefits of further work on the gun might be.

Thanks,

Canuck1911
 
Skip the Magnaporting. It's really not necessary on a gun chambered in .45 ACP.

The absolute best money you can spend is on getting a comprehensive action job, which includes a trigger job, new springs, internal smoothing.

Next to that is having all of the sharp edges smoothed and rounded.
 
Canuck, I recommend that you put a few hundred rounds through it before doin any changing. Unless you really know what you are doing...DO NOT REMOVE THE SIDE PLATE. I would suggest getting a copy of Jerry Kuenhausen's book on S&W revolvers and reading ALL of it a couple of times before trying to work on your new piece.

Sear engagement is almost always right to start with on the Smiths and more often than not, action work makes them worse. Just shooting most of them is enough to really smooth em out. Trigger pull can be lightned safely. Easiest and most effective is to lighten the trigger return spring. Again read a good book untill you know it well before changing anything.

I even recommend shooting it quite a bit before getting it ported. Especially if you are thinking of it as a defensive gun. There are some definate drawbacks to porting that, for me, offset any gains in muzzle flip. After all, tis not a rompin stompin cartridge....just a darn good one. I often carry a 3" 696. It is a tad smaller than your 625 and my .44special loads are in the upper level of .45ACP for strength. Stayin with moving target for multiple shots becomes easy with practice.

Welcome to the wonderful world of wheelguns.....enjoy.

Sam...follow me, I found a new way to get there.
 
Well...

... my 625-4 came with Pachmayr grips from the factory. I keep meaning to replace them with Hogues, but I always forget to pick some up when I'm up at the gun shop. Neoprene would be fine, but I think Hogue Monogrips in Rosewood or Cocobolo really make a 625 look and handle swell.

Buy a bunch of moonclips, half-moons, and a de-mooning tool.
 
sorry - my 625 is a .45lc

I forgot to be specific on that - thats why I was thinking about the porting.

If I understand the rest of the advice- its to consider doing a trigger job, but avoid an action job or other work until/unless I have enough experience with the gun to determine that it would actually benefit from this.

Thanks everyone.

Canuck1911
 
After using it for a while,and reading the Manual referred to in a previous post,you could talk to a gunsmith about widening the forcing cone and checking the cylinder/barrel gap.A tune up of these aspects can give improvement in accuracy.While he's at it,it probably wouldn't hurt to lap the crown as well.
Good luck.
 
Is this gun going to be a carry gun for defensive use?

If it is, don't port it. I believe porting to be a VERY bad idea on defensive guns. If you have to fire from a close in retention position, the ports will direct gas and debris right into your body, or worse, right into your face.
 
Hmmm...

... having fired lots and lots of rounds of full-powered JHP defense ammo from the retention position in my ported G23C, I'm wondering what causes y'all to say this?

I'm especially surprised to find such advice in a wheelgun forum; is there a fundamental difference in the nature of the ejecta from the ports and that from the barrel/cylinder gap?

(Although I will admit that any answers should be spoken loudly ;) )
 
I'm especially surprised to find such advice in a wheelgun forum; is there a fundamental difference in the nature of the ejecta from the ports and that from the barrel/cylinder gap?
Click to expand...

The chief difference that I see is that any ejecta from the b/c gap will exit to the sides while that from a ported barrel will exit upwards. Odds are that the stuff spewing from the barrel is more likely to hit me in the face than anything coming out of the barrel/cylinder gap.

That's my guess, for what it's worth. My only ported handgun is a Glock 24C and I've never shot it from a retention position. :)
 
#1 - dont let anyone but experienced S&W 'smiths touch your gun.

dont listen to the gun nut at work telling you that he will "put in some wolf springs and it will work like a champ" it is far easier to bugger it up than to actually improve it if you are trying to learn as you go along.

#2 - dry fire the crap out of it.

try this for a week,

in the morning dry fire it 50 times strong hand index finger (till your finger hurts) 50 times strong hand middle finger (till your finger hurts) 50 times weak hand index finger (till your finger hurts) 50 times weak hand middle finger (till your finger hurts).

do this again at lunch (another 200 dry firings), and again in the evening (yet another 200 times)

after a week you will have pulled the trigger 3000 times, you will have a handshake that would make Arnold S. cry, and the trigger will be so smooth that it will bring tears to your eyes.
 
Dry firing ok?

Rusty,

Its ok to dry fire? I avoid this on my autos, as this is generally not good for them. But I like your advice!

Canuck1911
 
IMHO forget the porting, especially if the weapon is ever to be used for protection. Go for a quality action job instead. Smith's really clean up well, and will give you the most enjoyment.
 
Canuck1911

First, congratulations, you have acquired an excellent gun, enjoy it.

I allways spend a lot a ammo before taking the decision to introduce changes in any of my guns, with the only exception of grips.

I do not hesitate in dry firing any of my new revolvers, if it makes you feel better you can use fired shells or dummy ammo.

alp-257
 
took it to the range today . . .

First time. Used the standard PMC .45lc cowboy load bullets that they mainly sell here. THe gun is a real sweethart.
Very controllable. I don't think it needs any porting with these loads. I'm going to take peoples' advice and wait
until I have shot a lot more through it before thinking about an action job. I already know I'm going to need to buy ammo by the case. I plan on trying out the lighter 225 gr. defensive loads, and some round nose 255 gr. but I'd
also like to try out a few stronger loads. Any recommendations. Also, I noticed they had Glasers in .45lc. Anybody have any thoughts on the utility of these?

Canuck1911
 
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