What does the wad do exactly?
- Thread starter Delmar
- Start date
The object of the wad is to keep fire from a shot from sneaking around an undersized ball or one with casting flaws. This will cause a "chainfire". Ie. 2 chambers firing together.
I had some badly cast balls, too hard, and had a series of chainfires a couple of years ago. I use wads although I am sure I don't need them any more. Doesn't hurt anything to have them in there. they also carry a little lube.
Saml Colt said load the powder, load the ball and shoot. No wad, no grease.
I had some badly cast balls, too hard, and had a series of chainfires a couple of years ago. I use wads although I am sure I don't need them any more. Doesn't hurt anything to have them in there. they also carry a little lube.
Saml Colt said load the powder, load the ball and shoot. No wad, no grease.
Inert filler material is of no use in preventing chain fires. Sealing the end of the chamber (along with proper fitting caps) in addition to a proper fitting ball is effective chain fire prevention.
The lubed wad has two functions: chain fire protection and keeping the combustion byproducts (fouling) soft for easy removal. The first function is achieved by providing a physical barrier, so the wad must be of sufficient diameter to axially fill the chamber completely. The second function is achieved by releasing lubrication when the wad is squeezed against the ball by the expanding gas in the chamber.
You can certainly do without using a wad; sealing the chamber with grease will accomplish both functions of the lubed wad. However, it's messy, so many people prefer the lubed wad.
The lubed wad has two functions: chain fire protection and keeping the combustion byproducts (fouling) soft for easy removal. The first function is achieved by providing a physical barrier, so the wad must be of sufficient diameter to axially fill the chamber completely. The second function is achieved by releasing lubrication when the wad is squeezed against the ball by the expanding gas in the chamber.
You can certainly do without using a wad; sealing the chamber with grease will accomplish both functions of the lubed wad. However, it's messy, so many people prefer the lubed wad.
Those prelubed felt wads are simply way more convenient than carrying around a container of lard or grease and way less messy.
For target loads, I use 1/2 inch thick fiber wads that I prelube with TC Bore Butter. This does the job of a wad and serves as chamber filler when using only 20-25 grains of powder. The barrel stays "one shot dirty" while shooting this combo.
These can be obtained from Circle Fly and are a lot cheaper than Wonder Wads.
And yes, you can shoot a revolver without wads behind the bullet.
For target loads, I use 1/2 inch thick fiber wads that I prelube with TC Bore Butter. This does the job of a wad and serves as chamber filler when using only 20-25 grains of powder. The barrel stays "one shot dirty" while shooting this combo.
These can be obtained from Circle Fly and are a lot cheaper than Wonder Wads.
And yes, you can shoot a revolver without wads behind the bullet.
I personally have never ever experienced a chain fire in a percussion revolver, with or without wads, with or without grease, and I have done a lot of percussion revolver shooting.
The two most important things are.
1. Make sure the ball is the right size, loading it should shave off a small ring of lead. It should seal the chamber like a cork.
2. Make sure each loaded chamber has a percussion cap sealing the nipple.
The two most important things are.
1. Make sure the ball is the right size, loading it should shave off a small ring of lead. It should seal the chamber like a cork.
2. Make sure each loaded chamber has a percussion cap sealing the nipple.
Inert filler is simply a mass of unconnected pieces of soft material. It has no structural identity. A gas will simply pass right through it, between the pieces of material. A lubed wad has structural identity - each piece is connected to it's neighbors through a woven matrix assembly, and the spaces between the fibers are filled with lube material. A gas will not readily pass through it.
Ah. So it's a gas, not a spark. That makes sense. But cream of wheat can pack pretty solid when compressed. Is it fair to say ,though, that it is of no use in preventing chain fires? I'm sure it must help some, but I guess if it could pass gas
then it would be of no predictable value worth relying upon. O.K. I get it now. Thankyou.
then it would be of no predictable value worth relying upon. O.K. I get it now. Thankyou.I tend to agree that it may help to provide some protection since the ignition flame is very temporary.
Cream of Wheat may be better than using nothing else but the ball. If the filler gets packed tightly enough against the wall of the chamber, then depending on its thickness it may act as a heat shield. An its usefulness may be cumulative by adding to the protection already afforded by the tight fitting ball.
That's one of the very reasons why some folks do use fillers, to protect their patched round ball from being burned or scorched. The fillers must become even more compressed inside the barrel during the firing of a single shot muzzle loader.
As for another example, sand is porous yet it will effectively extinguish a fire by smothering it and cutting off the air supply.
Also, the sub powders have a higher ignition temperature which may yet again add to the effectiveness of the filler acting as a heat shield.
While it might help to prevent chain fires how to prove that it is effective enough is the next question.
But since it's claimed that some chain fires begin at the nipple where the flame enters the nozzle around a loose or dislodged cap. So then sealing the front end of each chamber is only part of the problem.
Cream of Wheat may be better than using nothing else but the ball. If the filler gets packed tightly enough against the wall of the chamber, then depending on its thickness it may act as a heat shield. An its usefulness may be cumulative by adding to the protection already afforded by the tight fitting ball.
That's one of the very reasons why some folks do use fillers, to protect their patched round ball from being burned or scorched. The fillers must become even more compressed inside the barrel during the firing of a single shot muzzle loader.
As for another example, sand is porous yet it will effectively extinguish a fire by smothering it and cutting off the air supply.
Also, the sub powders have a higher ignition temperature which may yet again add to the effectiveness of the filler acting as a heat shield.
While it might help to prevent chain fires how to prove that it is effective enough is the next question.
But since it's claimed that some chain fires begin at the nipple where the flame enters the nozzle around a loose or dislodged cap. So then sealing the front end of each chamber is only part of the problem.
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madcratebuilder
New member
+1000
The above is what keeps the hot gases out of the chambers. Lubed wads, grease, Crisco is to keep the fouling soft and easy to remove.
jaguarxk120
New member
The "wad" came about as a marketing ploy to make shooting easyer and less messy. Wild Bill would have loved the wads, not having to grease the end of the cylinders each morning after his regular practice session.
Just think we can sell the wads for more money and use less grease when making them. And of course sell the grease also, the shooters will buy both as they will spend their money for any gadgets that come down the line.
By the way I use grease.
Just think we can sell the wads for more money and use less grease when making them. And of course sell the grease also, the shooters will buy both as they will spend their money for any gadgets that come down the line.
By the way I use grease.
Felt wads also have uses in single shot muzzleloaders. I have a TC Patriot .45 caliber pistol that blows patches unless I load a very tight .451 patched roundball, takes a mallet to start it.
I have found that if I put a Wonder Wad over the powder, I can shoot a .445 patched roundball without blowing patches. This makes it easier to load which is important when you have a 30 minute relay to get off 10 shots on your pistol target.
Since then, I have obtained a bag of 1000 .455 diameter "nitro cards" from Circle Fly, a maker of traditional card wads for shotguns. I suspect they will provide the same benefits of those rather costly Wonder Wads.
I have found that if I put a Wonder Wad over the powder, I can shoot a .445 patched roundball without blowing patches. This makes it easier to load which is important when you have a 30 minute relay to get off 10 shots on your pistol target.
Since then, I have obtained a bag of 1000 .455 diameter "nitro cards" from Circle Fly, a maker of traditional card wads for shotguns. I suspect they will provide the same benefits of those rather costly Wonder Wads.
Colleagues,
Only chain fire event I ever experienced occurred with a properly fitted ball, grease on all of the chambers but no wad.
I had badly fitting nipples and I think that was the source of the chain fire.
Has anyone ever had a chain fire that they can definitely attribute to the mouth of the chamber or to the nipple end?
Tnx,
Only chain fire event I ever experienced occurred with a properly fitted ball, grease on all of the chambers but no wad.
I had badly fitting nipples and I think that was the source of the chain fire.
Has anyone ever had a chain fire that they can definitely attribute to the mouth of the chamber or to the nipple end?
Tnx,
I heard of someone who bought a worked over Ruger Old Army from a target shooter and every time he tried to shoot it, it would chain fire. Examining the cylinder, it was discovered that the cylinder casting was porous between the chambers.
The original owner never discovered the flaw because he had the most accurate chamber marked and loaded only it for revolver target competition.
Ruger fixed the problem for free and unfortunately, also "fixed" the trigger job and "swiss cheese" lightened hammer.
The original owner never discovered the flaw because he had the most accurate chamber marked and loaded only it for revolver target competition.
Ruger fixed the problem for free and unfortunately, also "fixed" the trigger job and "swiss cheese" lightened hammer.
Quote
"Has anyone ever had a chain fire that they can definitely attribute to the mouth of the chamber or to the nipple end?
Tnx,
__________________
Doc"
Yes, all of my four occurred from the front of the cylinder. The caps on the chain-fired chambers were in place and intact and fired when the hammer was dropped on them.
I am convinced the the reason for my problems was that I decided that I wanted shiney balls so I added some linotype to the alloy. The balls were so hard that they did not swage properly and any casting void was left open for flame to enter. Since changing to dead soft lead, I have had no problems.
"Has anyone ever had a chain fire that they can definitely attribute to the mouth of the chamber or to the nipple end?
Tnx,
__________________
Doc"
Yes, all of my four occurred from the front of the cylinder. The caps on the chain-fired chambers were in place and intact and fired when the hammer was dropped on them.
I am convinced the the reason for my problems was that I decided that I wanted shiney balls so I added some linotype to the alloy. The balls were so hard that they did not swage properly and any casting void was left open for flame to enter. Since changing to dead soft lead, I have had no problems.