what do you use for sprue lube
- Thread starter skizzums
- Start date
I use two sucessesful methods...
1) When the sprue plate starts to smear lead, wipe off with an old oily rag...the oil will prevent the smearing. After so many cycles the oil will evaporate..you then have to re-apply
2) Touch the closed mold (with a hot bullet in the mold) with a candle just enough to add about a drop...again, you have to repeat after so many cycles, as the wax will evaporate.
I prefer # 2, but both work. Also, whne the sprue plate gets to hot and starts to streak lead...you can also touch the open sprue plate to a damp sponge to cool it off. I find that lasts for 3~5 cast cycles. With Lee molds I find it best to cast "HOT"...
1) When the sprue plate starts to smear lead, wipe off with an old oily rag...the oil will prevent the smearing. After so many cycles the oil will evaporate..you then have to re-apply
2) Touch the closed mold (with a hot bullet in the mold) with a candle just enough to add about a drop...again, you have to repeat after so many cycles, as the wax will evaporate.
I prefer # 2, but both work. Also, whne the sprue plate gets to hot and starts to streak lead...you can also touch the open sprue plate to a damp sponge to cool it off. I find that lasts for 3~5 cast cycles. With Lee molds I find it best to cast "HOT"...
FrankenMauser
New member
Bullplate is basically a synthetic 2-stroke oil. (Bullshop won't say whether there are any additives.)
Most people that try the Amsoil synthetic 2-stroke oil say there's no reason to mess with anything else. Reviews are mixed, for other brands.
Most people that try the Amsoil synthetic 2-stroke oil say there's no reason to mess with anything else. Reviews are mixed, for other brands.
Buy a can of Midway/Frankford Arsenal's Mold Release. One application will work wonders.
Next: If you are smearing lead when you open the mold, then the cast is still too hot. Count an additional 10 seconds before you open the mold. If you are using a Lee Production Pot, or another pot with adjustable temperature, set the temperature in the range between 7 and 8, with 8 being the highest.
If you are using 4 or 6 cavity molds, a good practice is to get another identical set. Heat them up at the same time you start the pot; flux the melt and get both molds.
Fill one, and set it aside. Now, fill the second one and set it down.
Pick up the first set, open, dump, close and refill. Set it down.
Repeat with the second set.
Two advantages here--first, the time between setting the molds down and opening them is almost ideal for the cast bullet to fully form. Second big advantage--if you are swinging two 6 cavity Lee molds, you can empty a 20 pound pot in a hurry!
Next: If you are smearing lead when you open the mold, then the cast is still too hot. Count an additional 10 seconds before you open the mold. If you are using a Lee Production Pot, or another pot with adjustable temperature, set the temperature in the range between 7 and 8, with 8 being the highest.
If you are using 4 or 6 cavity molds, a good practice is to get another identical set. Heat them up at the same time you start the pot; flux the melt and get both molds.
Fill one, and set it aside. Now, fill the second one and set it down.
Pick up the first set, open, dump, close and refill. Set it down.
Repeat with the second set.
Two advantages here--first, the time between setting the molds down and opening them is almost ideal for the cast bullet to fully form. Second big advantage--if you are swinging two 6 cavity Lee molds, you can empty a 20 pound pot in a hurry!
I just cast up a couple of hundred lee .45 250 gr SWC. Dumped yesterdays 100 or so bullets back into the pot, pounded the aligning pins in deeper and rubbed some kroil on the sprue plate and top of the mold and wiped off, resmoked the cavities. Started casting great bullets. So I recommend kroil.
Sure Shot Mc Gee
New member
I use Randyrat's Zip Lube. He's a sponsor/seller over on C/Boolit's. (zip lube) has always has worked good for me. Than again all my molds are iron. But I don't see why it wouldn't work for your application as well. (aluminum) Here's his product Link. Email him or call him if you have ?s. Friendly guy.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?131679-TAC-1-boolit-lube-mold-sprue-lube
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?131679-TAC-1-boolit-lube-mold-sprue-lube
Bullshop has moved to a remote site in Montana. They have no phone or internet, only go to town once a week to check emails on a public computer. So their response time will be slow, IF they have some bullplate to sell.
bullshopboolits@aol.com
Bullplate is simply SYNTHETIC 2 cycle oil. Amsoil is synthetic, as are some others.
Use of ANY petroleum product to lube molds will always result in burned on black residue where ever you apply it. Wax is also a petroleum product.
The synthetic 2 cycle oil has to be very lightly applied. A very thin coating is all that's required. It's a high temp lubricant, so it stays put and does not char or build up.
bullshopboolits@aol.com
Bullplate is simply SYNTHETIC 2 cycle oil. Amsoil is synthetic, as are some others.
Use of ANY petroleum product to lube molds will always result in burned on black residue where ever you apply it. Wax is also a petroleum product.
The synthetic 2 cycle oil has to be very lightly applied. A very thin coating is all that's required. It's a high temp lubricant, so it stays put and does not char or build up.
bedbugbilly
New member
I only have double cavity Lees - round ball for M/L and conicals for 38spl and 9mm. For years, I've used beeswax to flux with - years ago I bought several 10 pd bricks of it from a local apiary. When the sprue plates on my mold start to bind a little, I just heat the mold a little hotter (I melt over a bottle gas hotplate) and then I rub a piece of beeswax over the hotter blocks - seems to lube it up just fine and lasts a long time - never had an issue or a problem in doing it that way. It doesn't take much.
David Bachelder
New member
I use LEE molds and I don't lube the sprue plate. I do lube the two pins inside the mold with a very slight touch of bees wax. I think you aren't letting the mold cool enough between castings. The sprue needs to snap off, rather than wipe off.
The count to extra ten thing sounds like a good idea to me. Most likely something I should listen to. I like the 6 cavity molds best, but it takes practice to develop a good temperature and a proper cadence. I seem to favor about 750 degrees F and after about five or six bullet drops I set the mold down for a couple minutes.
I also don't smoke molds or use any kind of release. I do have bullets stick from time to time so I keep a short (12" or so) piece of 1.5" Dowel rod handy. A few very light taps makes them all drop.
I do tend to rush so I too need to slow things down.
Works for me.
The count to extra ten thing sounds like a good idea to me. Most likely something I should listen to. I like the 6 cavity molds best, but it takes practice to develop a good temperature and a proper cadence. I seem to favor about 750 degrees F and after about five or six bullet drops I set the mold down for a couple minutes.
I also don't smoke molds or use any kind of release. I do have bullets stick from time to time so I keep a short (12" or so) piece of 1.5" Dowel rod handy. A few very light taps makes them all drop.
I do tend to rush so I too need to slow things down.
Works for me.
I use the Amsoil as well,beside being an excellent bullet mold lube it works well in all my 2 cycle engines. I siphoned off enough for casting purposes to last me a life time as you use very little. I also dab it on my hollow point pins and they drop off much easier.
Mould lube instructions.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-Lube-Instructions-(works-with-BullPlate-too)
Mould lube instructions.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-Lube-Instructions-(works-with-BullPlate-too)
sounds good. i'll pick me up some synth 2-cycle. i understand not running the mold too hot. i havent had used this particular mold at all yet, i let them sit in gas for a couple days to get all the gunk off first. i was just wondering what others have used. i know you don't NEED any lube at all, but i have read once you find a good one, you'll never want to cast w/o again. unfortuneatly it's raining here in georgia and i left all my cook equipment outside yesterday when making ingots. goiing to be a couple days before its all dry enough to get back out there.
FrankenMauser
New member
That would never work for me. I don't see the point in beating an expensive mold with a mallet, when you can open the sprue plate by hand, if you time it right.
Sometimes I run too fast, and the bases of my bullets show some 'tear out'. But, I don't get smearing. The rest of the time... they cut nicely, with just a twist of the wrist.
David Bachelder
New member
Where does the quoted text mention a mallet?
Pencil scribblin'. You'll see scribbling on the tops of all of my molds. If I color the top of the mold and the bottom of the sprue plate with a good coat of graphite (from pencil "lead"), it slides nice and smooth. 
If you should get over-eager to break a sprue early though and smear lead across the top of the mold.... graphite won't get it off... you'll have to use bullplate, MP lube, or synthetic 2-cycle oil to get the smear off.
So, if you have to have lube handy to oil the tips of the pins, the sprue bolt, the alignment pins and handle nut, why not use it for the top of the blocks as well, you say?
Because, I haven't been coordinated enough to keep the lube out of the cavities if I coat the top of the block, even very lightly with a slightly damp Qtip.... I'll get oil wrinkled bullets for the next 20 pours.
But it doesn't matter if you get graphite in the cavity, you won't notice.
Your mileage may vary..... this is just the way I do it. Good luck!
If you should get over-eager to break a sprue early though and smear lead across the top of the mold.... graphite won't get it off... you'll have to use bullplate, MP lube, or synthetic 2-cycle oil to get the smear off.
So, if you have to have lube handy to oil the tips of the pins, the sprue bolt, the alignment pins and handle nut, why not use it for the top of the blocks as well, you say?
Because, I haven't been coordinated enough to keep the lube out of the cavities if I coat the top of the block, even very lightly with a slightly damp Qtip.... I'll get oil wrinkled bullets for the next 20 pours.
But it doesn't matter if you get graphite in the cavity, you won't notice.
Your mileage may vary..... this is just the way I do it. Good luck!
FrankenMauser
New member
It doesn't, and I wasn't implying that you use one.
It is, however, standard practice for most casters. Pour... cool.... beat on it!
(Lee 6-bangers, aside.)
David Bachelder
New member
FrankenMauser
I couldn't agree more.
I'm big on tapping. I tap the mold to assure things are lined up perfectly, then I tap it to close the sprue plate, then I tap it to free the bullets.
I never hit anything hard, just very light tapping.
I couldn't agree more.
I'm big on tapping. I tap the mold to assure things are lined up perfectly, then I tap it to close the sprue plate, then I tap it to free the bullets.
I never hit anything hard, just very light tapping.
FrankenMauser
New member
I just use a good pair of welders' gloves.
Mold handles in one hand, the other hand cupped around the mold, the crook of my thumb on the sprue plate, and a twist of the hand/wrist opens it right up. I align and close the mold in the same manner (one hand on the blocks, one on the handle).
Then, there's enough transition time, pour time, and cooling time, that the glove that touches the mold never actually gets warm enough to bother me (let alone burn me).
The only exceptions would be cold molds, which sometimes require a little assistance before they reach temperature. (Hopefully no longer a consideration, since I picked up a 2-burner hot plate last week.)
Mold handles in one hand, the other hand cupped around the mold, the crook of my thumb on the sprue plate, and a twist of the hand/wrist opens it right up. I align and close the mold in the same manner (one hand on the blocks, one on the handle).
Then, there's enough transition time, pour time, and cooling time, that the glove that touches the mold never actually gets warm enough to bother me (let alone burn me).
The only exceptions would be cold molds, which sometimes require a little assistance before they reach temperature. (Hopefully no longer a consideration, since I picked up a 2-burner hot plate last week.)