What causes this? 1851 Navy, play in cylinder when quick cocking none when slow cocking

S

Stopsign32v

New member
So if you pull back on the hammer fast the cylinder goes too far and the hammer doesn't line up with the nipple. But you can take your hand and move it side to side a good bit (slop) with the hammer still in full cock.

On the other hand you can slowly cock the hammer and the gun seems to be perfect. Lines up 100% true and there is no side to side play with the cylinder.

What is going on? :confused:
 
Doubtful. The bolt should drop one full bolt width before the notch. You might be able to file a little off the bolt leg that rides the cam but it's not a job for amateurs. If it was mine I'd just cock it a little slower or you could send it to 45dragoon and it will be right when you get it back.
 
Thanks Hawg!!

Stopsign32v, you might also check to see if the bolt spring (short side of the combination bolt/trigger spring) is cracked or it could be a weak or cracked hand spring. Hawg is right about the timing, when you hear the 2nd click (when cycling the action) look at the notch that is coming up to the top position on the cylinder. If the notch has crossed a line going forward from the left side of the hammer (as if you were sighting it) the bolt drop is late. The bolt should drop when the notch -reaches- that sight line. Lockup is just on the other side of that line. (Drag a finger on the cylinder to get an accurate read).

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
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Another thing I noticed is, if you cock it slowly the cylinder will lock up. Even with it locking up, the second you let the hammer down on that chamber there is massive back and forth play.

Still think the same diagnosis? How did it happen? I'm thinking about replacing every small part in the gun short of the hammer, frame, and barrel assembly...
 
Bolt/trigger spring broke. The spring leg under the bolt weak, cracked, or broke. Not pushing the bolt up properly.
 
I've never broken a bolt/trigger spring in 48 years of bp shooting and only one hand spring and that was on a new gun with a burr in the hand channel. It is possible tho.
 
It's a used gun that I bought with this problem. Owner didn't know what the problem was so I got it for like $75.

It's a 1851 Pietta Navy .44 that I plan to put a Kirst 45 Schofield cylinder in.
 
I've never broken a bolt/trigger spring in 48 years of bp shooting and only one hand spring
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I've had two break. One in an Army San Marco 51 Navy, and one in a Pietta Remmy. Never had a hand spring break, but I did have to adjust one once.
 
It's easy enough to take the bolt/trigger spring out and give it a little tweak. It'll break right off if it's cracked. BTDT
 
Pettifogger articles oughta fix it if you follow all of those directions.
I had a hand spring break on a new Pietta 1860 on the 24th shot. It hasn't broken again since, in over 25 years. I had the bolt side of the trigger/bolt spring break on an ASM Walker with zero shots. We were just sitting around working the action on an unfired safe queen and broke that spring.
 
Well I installed a trigger and bolt spring for a 1860 Army. It fixed it

The only thing worth mentioning now is maybe 1 out of 7 hammer pulls result in the cylinder going a smudge too far. Almost like the hammer is being allowed to over travel. I will probably have the action tuned after the cylinder conversion is put in.
 
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The only thing worth mentioning now is maybe 1 out of 7 hammer pulls result in the cylinder going a smudge too far.
Click to expand...

It's not unusual for the hammer to travel a hair more than required for full lockup after the bolt head drops into the cylinder stop notch, but the bold head should not travel beyond the cylinder stop notch. If it does, you also have the problem of the bolt rising too late to catch the cylinder stop notch. As described earlier. You may need a new bolt.

I will probably have the action tuned after the cylinder conversion is put in.
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I think you mean "when" the cylinder conversion is put in. If you are going to have it tuned, have it tuned to the conversion.
 
What he said. Once it's tuned for the conversion cylinder it may not work right with the c&b cylinder and vice versa.
 
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