What brand of Cold Blue???

Which ever brand you decide on, try this tip: Degrease the parts to be blued and make sure that you don't touch them with bare fingers, heat them in boiling water for a few minutes before applying the "cold" blue. I've use this with the Outers paste cold blue, resulting in a deep blue/black finish that has not started to wear, yet.

Apply cold blue to hot part, let stand, rinse, re-heat and re-apply until the color you want is reached. Rinse well and then apply a coating of good gun oil and let it set
 
I like the G96 paste in the tube. But, I don't consider any of them as good or durable as tank blue or a good rust blue.

Jim
 
I really like Brownell's 44/40. It applies easily and gives a great black finish. Just remember to rinse well after applying to remove any residual solution and then saturate part with a good oil that will displace any water left behind.

Mike
 
I've tried all of the ones mentioned and had mediocre results. George Stringer, our moderator, suggested Brownell's Ox-Pho Blue, and it has proved to be the best cold blue I've used... Period.
 
Anybody have any side by side comparisons

between the 44/40 and the Oxpho-Blue? Which is easier and which gives the better finish?

I recently did a Marlin .22 barrel with the Birchwood Casey paste and wasn't impressed.
 
I have used both Oxpho Blue and 44/40. I think 44/40 is the better of the two. BTW, cold blue is only good for touch-up work and screw heads IMHO. If you're going to do a whole gun, read the preparation required to do it right in Gunsmith Kinks (I think it's Vol. 1). Then read what it takes to actually hot blue a firearm. If you're not willing to expend the labor and devote the time, have it professionally done or factory done. Both S&W (prior to the agreement) and Colt have done some beautiful work for me at very reasonable prices.
 
Kleenbore Black Magic

Anyone have experience with Kleenbore's Black Magic?

I've tried the Oxpho Blue and Birchwood Casey products, but couldn't get a dark enough finish to match the deep, dark S&W blue.

May have to try the 44/40.
 
Can't say enough about Oxpho-blu. Follow the directions and don't work directly out of the bottle. Contamination of the solution can reduce shelf life. Good luck!
 
prescott - my relative lack of success with Oxpho-Blue as opposed to 44/40 must be due to my method of use. I use directly out of the bottle with a Q-tip following preparation of the affected surface with alcohol. What's the best method in your opinion. I'd like to try it.
 
I got a bottle of Brownells Oxpho Blue two weeks ago and have been giving a little workout. Reblued a Romanian SKS and nickel steel Win Model 12 plus touchup on a Lee Enfield and Swiss K31. Results seem to vary depending on the type of steel. Example, the SKS had some parts that required repeated applications while others parts only one or two. The M12 reblued beautifully with only two apps and turned into a nice black color. Worn areas on the Swiss turned to a nice black finish quickly BUT the rear barrel band would not take bluing at all even with proper preparation. Same problem with the Lee Enfield...most of it's stamped sheet metal parts would take little or no bluing. I have used the Birchwood Casey cold blue and I won't waste my time or money with that product. I'd buy the small bottle of Oxpho to see how it works on your guns.
 
First off; Cold blue should be only used for touch ups when a total reblue is not wanted, or maybe a screw or the fresh cut threads on a barrel for a muzzle brake.
Reblueing a whole gun with the stuff is asking for trouble in the years or months to come. Cold blue does not wear even close to a real hot blue and some like to rust.

For touch ups and such the best I have used is oxpho blue. I have used 44-40 and a dozen or so of the others. 44-40 is one that likes to rust easily after a while. It does work faster and gets darker at first, but it will rust if your gun does not have a good coat of oil on it at all times.

If you want to reblue at home and dont want use caustic hot salts, try out the hot water methode. It is much more durable than cold blue and looks better too. You will only really have to invest in a tank large enough to imerse your gun in.

FWIW
Celt
 
Celt, by hot water blue do you mean the "belgian" blue, or is there some other stuff that you can hot-tank in your kitchen, wife absent...
 
I've tried Brownell's Oxpho Blue - it's not bad, but tends to be a lighter blue than the dark, almost black, S&W blue I tried to match. Repeated applications don't seem to darken for me as suggested.

I recently tried Kleenbore's Black Magic, which did a great job on a 1950's S&W revolver. I was amazed at how well it matched the deep blue. However, it doesn't take as well on the muzzle wear of my 1988-vintage S&W 25-5. Go figure. Slightly different carbon steel composition? YMMV - mine did.
 
Yes, Belgium blue, or Brownells Ducropan IM.
Used to do it in the kitchen years ago.
I now use, for firearms that cannot be hot salt blued, Mark Lee's Blue. You can find it in Brownells.
It take a heck of alot longer than a Hot blue, but is tough and real pretty.
Celt
 
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