What are your methods?

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baddarryl

New member
Hi all. As previously stated I have loaded some 9mm with Win 231. To me that is pretty straight forward. Good enough for plunking and IDPA is all I need.

I have 4 rifles (2 different calibers) I need to work up loads for. I am looking for a regimented way to keep it all organized. I figure I will work on one at a time. More importantly I am wondering how you work up a rifle load from scratch? Seems to me that it makes more sense to find an available powder that will work for both and base bullets on the rifles twists. .223 and .30-06 with IMR4895 is what I am thinking. Also how do you organize your data books or are there templates for this? Thank you.
 
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I have won lots and lots of matches with 9mm’s using 3.1 grains of N310 with a plated 147RN @ 1.160”.

If you are shooting IDPA you might talk with others at the match about the loads they use. As they are telling you how good they are, ask them if they mind if you shoot a few of them through their gun at the end of the match. Doesn’t get much easier than that.

First thing I do is gather information from as many sources as I can take and aim for the lower middle to start with. I might have powders in mind to go towards and others to avoid. For example if I intend to drop charges from a measure, extruded powders like IMR powders are not my first choices.

I am kind of old school for data, I have a 3 ring binder with all of my data in it. Notes in some reloading manuals and my favorite loads are printed on labels stuck to their perspective ammo boxes and the drawers of my storage cabinet.
 
For example if I intend to drop charges from a measure, extruded powders like IMR powders are not my first choices.
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I didn't mean for this to be a powder and load discussion. but you bring up a good point. I need a powder that will work in my AR as well as a Garand that will meter well. I also have a bolt .223 and bolt .30-06. Suggestions?
 
I use a template that lists the gun, bullet, primer information and powder make and type with a range of loads. I write in the group position and size of the group for each load to find a new range that contains the most accurate loads. I then use the same template to narrow down the most consistently accurate load. You can find it here.
 
I don't shoot those itty bitty cartridges like the 223 anymore, but if I was trying to cross a powder for a number of guns.

Get a Hornady X reloading manual as its the latest (new powders) .

Hornady is very good about listing a wide range of powders.

then you cross reference your way up.

Sierra is also outstanding in that regard, often with more powders listed, its dated now and does not have the newer powders.

Both are invaluable as cross references and checks I in hand instead of internet searching and downloads.

There is also a series of pamphlets that is a one cartridge referent for a wide number of bullet makes and powder makers.
 
Google reloading record sheets. I also keep mine in a spiral binder. I keep all brass, by manufacturer, in plastic boxes for each caliber. I put primers in a deep Plano lure box. Hornady lists the best powder results in Version 10. 4895 is a good place to start for 30-06 and 223 in medium weight bullets.
 
These days I find it easier to keep track of my load data electronically. I use a program called OnTarget . I take a picture of my target with my phone then email it to myself. At home I load the picture into the program and list temperature, humidity, wind conditions, powder, bullet, primer, COL, and any other relevant data such as chrono data file name in the notes section. That way I have not only the load data but a visual of how effective it was.
 
I didn't mean for this to be a powder and load discussion. but you bring up a good point. I need a powder that will work in my AR as well as a Garand that will meter well. I also have a bolt .223 and bolt .30-06. Suggestions?
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Varget is a good powder for 30-06 and 223 but it is not the best metering powder out there. If you plan to load with a progressive press powders like 748 or TAC might be a better choice. In that Garand I would be looking at 150gn and down projectiles.
 
"...have 4 rifles..." You'll have to work up a load for each one separately. Every rifle shoots all ammo differently.
M1 Rifles like IMR4064 more than IMR4895 with 168 grain match bullets and 165 grain hunting bullets.
You really don't need to keep a record of every load you fire. For the M1, load 8(usually 5 or a mag load but 8 is far easier to keep separate for an M1. Bit of masking tape on the clip with the load on it.) of each load(there's 8) from 47.0 to 50.8(for a 168) going up by half a grain. Last one will go from 50.0 to 50.8. (Same process using 165 grain data. There's 8 loads there too.) Then go shooting, off a solid rest, for group only, no ladders involved. Once you've found the best group, write that in your manual on the 168 grain .30-06 page.
Repeat for .223 and other bullet weights and the individual rifle.
 
I first look at my documented production loads. I’ll either repeat or venture into more development. If I develop, I pull out all the manuals to research loads.
 
baddarryl wrote:
Seems to me that it makes more sense to find an available powder that will work for both and base bullets on the rifles twists.
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Having one powder that works for both is a convenience - and if it means you can buy powder in 4 or 8 pound jugs - economical. It is rare one powder will deliver optimal results in both a small and medium sized case round, but if what you're looking for is something that just works, you have a good plan.

Don't get too hung up on twist rates. I have 223/5.56 rifles with twist rates of 1:12, 1:10 and 1:9. They all handle every bullet I put through them from 35 grain up to 62 grain and out to 200 yards, I get the same point of impact regardless of what the twist rate is. Just make sure you are selecting bullets that aren't too long for your twist rate.

.223 and .30-06 with IMR4895 is what I am thinking.
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A lot of people don't like IMR powders (referred to as "stick" powders because of the shape of the granules) because they don't meter too well.

I personally use IMR powders where I can because they generally burn cleaner than other types and I don't mind having to tinker with the powder measure as I load.

Also how do you organize your data books or are there templates for this? Thank you.
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I have my own system of paper forms developed in the early 1980's (right down to the dot matrix print) that most people would find a little too pedestrian today. There are templates available for download on the web that will probably better suit your needs.
 
bad darryl asked:
More importantly I am wondering how you work up a rifle load from scratch?
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Given you know the cartridge and the bullet weight you want to use, look at your reloading manual(s) and powder makers' websites to find a powder that will work with that cartridge and bullet.

Ideally, you want one with a fairly wide spread between starting load and maximum load since that gives you "room to work with". If you are consulting multiple sources, pick a consensus of the Starting Loads.

Then, look at the spread between your Starting load and your Maximum load. Split that up into 0.1 grain, 0.2 grain, or 0.3 grain increments based on how large the spread is.

Load a number - say 10 - rounds with the Starting load. If you can shoot where you load, go out and test them. If not, then you need to load the whole ladder getting ready for a day at the range. Increase the charge by the increment you selected, say 0.3 grain and load 10 more. Increase the increment by 0.3 grains and again load 10 more. Continue until you read (but don't exceed) Maximum.

When you get to the range, begin with the Starting Load. I fire 5 rounds across my chronograph to see how consistent they are. I then fire 5 rounds for accuracy. You may choose to do something different. Collect the spent cases and inspect them looking for pressure signs (i.e. distorted heads, extractor marks, ringed primers, primers blown out of their pocket, etc.). Continue with the next 10 cartridges. And then then next. Continue until you either 1) start to see pressure signs (at which point you retreat to the previous load that didn't produce pressure signs) or 2) you reach maximum.

If you hit pressure signs before you reached maximum, you'll need to disassemble any remaining rounds that had larger charges in them when you get home.

You should note a few loads that worked better than the others. Go home and concentrate on them for the next range day - try moving 1/10 grain up or down from the good loads and see if they get better - or worse.

This is a time-tested technique for developing a load properly. As you can see it can be cumbersome and time-consuming, but it works, lets you find the accuracy nodes on your gun and is safe. This is also why I'm still loading three loads that I developed back in the 1970's.

Good luck.
 
Thank you everyone for so many of your replies and thoughtful insight. This begs another question for me. Suppose I head to the range with cartridge and incrementally changing the charges to get the better load at that point or better yet at what point do you start changing seating depth? Do you also incrementally change seating depth before or after finding the best charge? Also I'm assuming that charge affects things more drastically than changing seating depth. Am I correct in that assumption?
 
Starting out, I would not mess with COAL initially.

For an unknown (new, built, bought) rifle, I find the lowest load out of the manuals I have.

I pre determine where the bullet hits the lands and set a space back from that of .020.

The first 10 are set at that, the rest are at land distance (more on that a bit latter)

I do a load 5/10 (1/2 grain) of 15. I then add another 1/2 grain and load another 15.

I work that same process up to full load.

I then shoot them, starting low and working up.

If the first 5 of any group shoot well, I will set the next 5 deeper .010. If its better I will move the last back another r.010. If its worse then I will move them .010 off the lands.

I have a light reloading press I take to the range with me. I have the shell base, bullet seater and the micrometer with me (I use the bullet OGIVE measurement)

If nothing in the groups of 3 shot does not look promising I just move up and don't mess with COAL.

How I do it is somewhat advanced (or different). I do it beasue I know when I am shooting good, pulling rounds etc and I do it in groups of 5.

If I get 3 really good shots and waiver a bit, I think that is worth noting and may play with COAL.

If I get 4 and a flyer I am pretty sure I have something decent.

Keeping in mind that if they are all looking decent in that lot of 15 I may just shoot them at the original or the .020 COAL.

If a group shows real promise with a different COAL than initial , I will move the next group to that.

After its done I note the good spots if any and then I do a box of 50 around that spot, but this time its 3/10 of a grain. I go for an undershoot of the dispenser and tweak grains out of the tube to hit the 3/10 spot on.

If the group below was decent and the one above is decent I load between with 15, 20 and 15 again.

I am looking to see if there is a good one in between or close to the two decent.

If it proves out then I auto dispense on a given setting, and I do not worry about the 1/10 below or above. I will work with COAL a lot in that load of 50.
 
I just take one of the lighter presses off my bench and use a 2” receiver mount I made.

Change whatever I want right there and record the results.

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What do you use?
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I use an old RCBS Junior, heavy little bugger. I have it and we have wagons to haul the shooting stuff (though I am getting to need a UTV!)

My broth has a hand press, RCBS now has lite aluminum presses.

Bullet pushing in does not take much effort so anything works.

We have benches in back of the shooting line.

They treat me like a muzzle loader, can't do it on the bench itself.
 
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