What are the best tools for scope mounting?

W

Will Beararms

New member
I have done a scope mount search. I want to learn how to mount a scope. It is only fitting. I blow the Old Olt hard rubber plug D2 duck calls and I do my own cut downs now so it is only natural that I learn how to mount a scope.

That said, what are the best tools for the job when mounting with weaver style rings to a Model 94 Winchester with the Angle Eject?

With regards to a medium strength threadlocker like Loctite 242, I would guess the base mount thread pathways are blind holes versus through holes right?

Like George has said, I will apply threadlocker to the bases and leave it off of the rings since it is only a 30-30.

Also, what about those clear plastic scope reticle lining up things? Do they work?

Thanks in advance.
 
The most important tool to me is my rifle vise. You need something to hold the gun while you work on it. Proper screwdrivers for the job are essential, and the screwheads seem to be different for each brand. I don't personally use Loctite on scope mounts or rings. If you are mounting a scope on a lever action, there are a bunch of flat surfaces that you can use a torpedo level on. That will accomplish what you want to do for aligning the crosshairs. Just make the horizontal crosshair parallel to the torpedo level. I personally use the "eyeball" method of aligning crosshairs, and I have always gotten it close enough by that method. Weaver rings can be a little bit vexing because the scope wants to tilt a bit as you cinch the rings down. You have to compensate with the initial position and make multiple stabs at it until you get it right. Finally, use your vise to hold the gun for boresighting. You will need an angled dental mirror to see through the bore and aim it at a street light, etc. You can use a collimeter, but I never saw the need to buy one when I could actually sight down the bore. Lever guns make me reassess my position on that, however.
 
Starrett makes a double level in a square that is small enough to be very useful in leveling both directions before attaching a side mount.
A bore sighter is also very useful to get on the target.
I use a very small precision square (Starrett) to check the level of iron sights and scope crosshairs. You can use a flat surface as a basis.
A scope mounting fixture will pay for itself in the long run,, but you will need the extension for mounting iron sights without re-positioning the rifle. Short of that, make a plywood support piece with an adjustable V crotch to support the muzzle while your regular vise supports the action.
Protect your screwdrivers! When you find one to perfectly fit a particular screw, keep it for that use only. Don't re-grind them ad lib.
 
Thanks men. I was taught early on if torquing a part with more than one fastener to torque gradually on each fastener versus fully torquing one corner and so forth and so on.
 
I have a half-dozen screwdrivers worked over and used only on gun work. The main thing is to carefully grind the ends so the flat sides are parallel instead of tapered. After that, grind the width and thickness appropriately for the most common screws. And, of course, start with good quality screwdrivers.

If you *carefully* heat the tips to a good red color, and quench in oil, you can get a bit of a case-hardening. This helps a bit for surface hardness.

Sighting in semi-autos and lever actions, I start out at 25 yards with a fairly large target background. "Always on the paper". :)

Yeah, tighten a bit at a time on each screw. Just like torquing the head on an engine.

Art
 
The Brownell's master gunsmith screwdriver set with the thin bit set is standard equipment in my gun toolbox. I find it invaluable to have the correct screwdriver bit for the task. Even with 62 unique sized screwdriver bits, I still have times where the exact size isn't there! :rolleyes:
 
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