Dano4734,
If you want to get a competition die set, I recommend the Redding first and the Forster second. The difference is the Redding has a floating seating ram/stem, where the Forster is fixed. Both feature full length sliding sleeve case guides.
Both John Feamster, in the 1995 Precision Shooting Reloading Guide, and German Salazar in the Rifleman's Journal, found the RCBS Competition seater produced more cartridge runout than the standard RCBS seater. Apparently the standard RCBS seaters long, skinny adjustment stem flexes enough to approximate a floating stem. In Salazar's test of the Redding Competition Seater, a Vicker's seating die, a Wilson seating die for arbor press, the RCBS standard seating die, and one other die I've forgotten, he found the Redding produced the least runout and smallest groups on target, with the RCBS standard seater in second place and all the other expensive dies doing less well. Indeed Salazar measured case neck runout prior to seating and found the Redding Competition Seating Die was the only one could actually correct a bullet direction to remove a little of the runout in the case. It works very, very well. Having straight, concentric cartridges vs having randomly tilted bullets in your cases will typically make a difference of about 1 moa on paper over a large enough comparison sample (say, 30 rounds with and without).
So this is a situation in which you do not always get what you pay for. You need to shop. The RCBS Competition die's bullet window is very convenient, but using a Lyman M die to put a step in the mouth of a case will also prevent you having to run your fingers up to the die hanging onto the bullet. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.
The micrometer seating adjustment is useful, IMHO. I use it two ways. The Redding Competition Seating Die's micrometer (not to be confused with the micrometer adapter they make for their standard seating dies) thimble has an Allen wrench screw in the top that allows you to center the adjustment and place its zero where you want. I take a typical bullet I use in the chambering the die is made for and put the mid-range zero on that bullet seated to SAAMI COL so all adjustments are relative to that. If my records show I need to be 0.052" longer with that same bullet in a particular chamber, that's a number I can then quickly get to every time. The other thing I do is for each new bullet I try, I record the setting difference to the reference bullet and can then dial in that bullet on the micrometer and hit the number on the first one any time I switch to it. Saves a lot of trial and error.