copter_dad
Inactive
Does anyone know the value of one click on the adjustment turret of a Weaver 1.5-c3 scope? I thought most scopes were 1/4" @ 100yd., but I seem to be chasing myself around the target.
Weaver scope, I need help
- Thread starter copter_dad
- Start date
crankyoldlady
New member
Is your Weaver newer or a vintage model?
copter_dad
Inactive
Vintage. USA, steel tube, steel turret caps.
FrankenMauser
New member
A quick internet search shows that they should be 1/4" @ 100 yd; or 1/4 MoA.
You may have a bad erector.
Shouldn't be difficult to check for damage, or to see how big the adjustments are.
Fire a group (or single shot if the rifle is laser-accurate). Adjust by one or two clicks.
Fire again.
See how far it moved.
I can't remember what it is, but I have an old scope on a .223 that has 3/4 MoA clicks.
I got it sighted in dead-nuts for elevation, but at 100 yards it's either 3/8" to the right or 3/8" to the left, because the windage adjustment fell right in the middle of the detents.
You may have a bad erector.
Shouldn't be difficult to check for damage, or to see how big the adjustments are.
Fire a group (or single shot if the rifle is laser-accurate). Adjust by one or two clicks.
Fire again.
See how far it moved.
I can't remember what it is, but I have an old scope on a .223 that has 3/4 MoA clicks.
I got it sighted in dead-nuts for elevation, but at 100 yards it's either 3/8" to the right or 3/8" to the left, because the windage adjustment fell right in the middle of the detents.
Don Fischer
New member
I have two very old Redfield's. The 2 3/4x is 1/2 minute if I recall right. The 1-4x changes depending on what power your on. I also have a very old Weaver but haven't had it on a rifle. I need another rifle!
When you say you're chasing yourself around the target, it made me think you may have a possible parallax issue with that old Weaver, too. Does the rifle group o.k., or are you just taking a shot, and then making an adjustment? Do the X-hairs hold exactly center on the target if you move your head and eye a bit left/right and up and down?
If you haven't yet, try this the next time you shoot; it's very easy to do and costs you nothing but a few seconds of time:
Dead-rest your rifle with the X-hairs centered on the bull @ 100 yards. Then, without touching the rifle, look through your scope and move your head and eye around and see if the X-hairs stay centered on the bull. Sometimes the center of those X-hairs chase all around the bull except in the center. If that's the case, you've got a parallax problem. When I mount any scope on any of my rifles, that's the first little test I do to make sure I don't have a parallax issue. If your gun is grouping o.k., then your probably all right, and that's one less thing. From time to time when I'm shooting, and if I think of it, I'll just quickly do that little test just to check for any parallax gremlins. Leupold scopes, at least the ones I have, are gremlin-free.
If you haven't yet, try this the next time you shoot; it's very easy to do and costs you nothing but a few seconds of time:
Dead-rest your rifle with the X-hairs centered on the bull @ 100 yards. Then, without touching the rifle, look through your scope and move your head and eye around and see if the X-hairs stay centered on the bull. Sometimes the center of those X-hairs chase all around the bull except in the center. If that's the case, you've got a parallax problem. When I mount any scope on any of my rifles, that's the first little test I do to make sure I don't have a parallax issue. If your gun is grouping o.k., then your probably all right, and that's one less thing. From time to time when I'm shooting, and if I think of it, I'll just quickly do that little test just to check for any parallax gremlins. Leupold scopes, at least the ones I have, are gremlin-free.
crankyoldlady
New member
I have a vintage 40s Weaver that doesn't "settle" well. So rather than making single click adjustments I move the turret three clicks, then back two. Seems to respond better using this method.
When I've found myself chasing zero, it was a loose sight base or ring. I didn't think they'd come loose but some do. Parallax with basic scopes like the old weavers, that can be resolved with a more consistent hold. Some aren't aware of parallax, so once your aware of it it can be managed. Proper fit to the shooter will help( eye relief, scope height etc. )
I've got a pile of old weavers, just because I like them. Kinda retro. I have put a few on rifles and they worked pretty well. The main thing I notice is smoky glass on the older ones. Considering it's age it could be a bad scope I suppose, just look into other causes before you chunk it.
I've got a pile of old weavers, just because I like them. Kinda retro. I have put a few on rifles and they worked pretty well. The main thing I notice is smoky glass on the older ones. Considering it's age it could be a bad scope I suppose, just look into other causes before you chunk it.
copter_dad
Inactive
Thanks all! Will investigate suggestions.
zeroing your scope
One maneuver you might try that has worked for me in the past follows.
Take a friend to the range with you....set up the rifle and scope on a good sand bag both on the forestock and the shoulder stock with the crosshairs centered on the bullseye....fire one careful round...recenter the crosshairs on the bullseye if the sight picture has been lost.
Ask your friend to adjust the scope while you watch and give directions so that the crosshairs move to center on the bullet hole from your shot...do not move the rifle after the friend starts adjusting the scope.
This works best if done at a range of about 28 yards. This will put you on the paper at 100 yards if you are using a hunting type rifle. Keeping track of the clicks needed to move the crosshairs to the bullet hole will help you in making fine adjustments at the 100 yard range. I like to have my rifles sighted in 2" high at 100 yards to put the impact somewhere between 175 and 200 yards.
One maneuver you might try that has worked for me in the past follows.
Take a friend to the range with you....set up the rifle and scope on a good sand bag both on the forestock and the shoulder stock with the crosshairs centered on the bullseye....fire one careful round...recenter the crosshairs on the bullseye if the sight picture has been lost.
Ask your friend to adjust the scope while you watch and give directions so that the crosshairs move to center on the bullet hole from your shot...do not move the rifle after the friend starts adjusting the scope.
This works best if done at a range of about 28 yards. This will put you on the paper at 100 yards if you are using a hunting type rifle. Keeping track of the clicks needed to move the crosshairs to the bullet hole will help you in making fine adjustments at the 100 yard range. I like to have my rifles sighted in 2" high at 100 yards to put the impact somewhere between 175 and 200 yards.