Water Removal Black Powder Revolvers

G

Gator Weiss

New member
Many use ovens to dry black powder revolvers. Rust forms rapidly after. Question: If the object is to remove water then coat with non-petroleum oil while metal is warm and dry from oven; then would it not work well to simply wipe water off parts coming out of soap water, then place them immediately in a warm to hot oil bath, the residual water on the part would then immediately rise to surface of oil. The part is then instantly dried and oiled. Wipe off excess oil and immediately install. They make a little bucket fryer called the fry-baby and the fry-daddy. See these used in junk shops for 2 or 3 bucks. Non-petroleum oil could be heated to warm and parts immersed in a basket. No oven and no air exposure would ever take place. Water is skimmed off the surface of the oil with a paper towel. Maybe not allow oil to get over heated, but just enough heat to work the job.

Just wondering / just thinking.
 
It may well work.

I really like using Ballistol as it will mix with the water but allowing it to evaporate leaving just the oil behind. It’s simple and it works well.
 
I used to use WD-40 also. But I read how it’s just not a good rust preventative and that after some amount of use it becomes gummy or something. Ballistol was designed specifically for firearms and is good for wood and leather as well.
 
WD 40 does not become gummy, and it's a pretty good rust preventative. Don't believe the crap that you hear. I have used it daily for 45 years.
WD 40 is a wonderful water displacer. Just flood the gun with it, then wipe it dry. You can then use another oil if you feel it's necessary.
 
If you wipe it off, WD-40 does not become gummy (as Bill notes).
What it DOES do -- is totally displace any/all water and suck up against the metal.

As with any firearm thereafter, wipe down w/ Ballistol/BreakFree/WeaponShield or the like for storage.
 
Maybe the difference for them was not removing afterwards but firing it with it still there, which is what I had been doing. I didn’t notice it myself but then I only shot it a few times before I switched.

As Ballistol will deal with any water I’m happy skipping that.
 
And of course...the W stands for Water and the D stands for Displacement ...just the ticket for wet firearms...the 40 stands for forty !
 
The fortieth attempt from what I understand.

To me it makes more sense to reduce the steps and chemicals I’ll need. Why need to wipe it all off to oil it when the oil itself can do the job?
 
Sounds like a royal PITA to me. I also use WD-40 and it doesn't get gummy even if you don't wipe it off. Not even if you spray the insides of a repeater and let it sit for 20 years. It isn't a good long term lube tho.
 
I’d certainly like to hear from those who say otherwise. I only changed over because several people said the same thing. Granted I like Ballistol and won’t switch back, but I do like to know the truth of the matter. I didn’t notice any issues myself but didn’t use it long to say for sure.
 
Warm soapy bath, dry it, denature alcohol to remove all traces of moisture, follow up with your favorite gun oil.

wd40 sucks. I will never trust that garbage again for keeping rust off.
 
I have used WD 40 as a professional gunsmith, jeweler, knifemaker/restorer, engineer, and musician for a very long time.
I have attempted to make it "gum up," and it won't do it. I use it for rust protection on my extensive gun and knife collections. It works very well. It's also a good light lubricant. I use it on my bass guitar strings!
WD 40 DISPLACES water. Ballistol MIXES with water. There's a big difference!
I said use another oil IF you feel it's necessary-it usually isn't.
If your gun rusts or "gums up" when using WD 40, you're doing something very wrong.
 
“WD 40 DISPLACES water. Ballistol MIXES with water. There's a big difference!”

I’ll bite. How?
Click to expand...

It forms an emulsion with water that looks like milk, in fact milk itself is an emulsion.

Water displacing oils want to wet metals more than water does, so it actually crawls under the water to wet the metal and so lifts the water off the metal.

I have found that when washing engine cylinders with water and detergent, there is always a small amount of flash rusting as the water dries. If you spray those cylinders with WD-40 while they are still wet, that flash rusting won't occur.
I do the same with my guns, I clean out the black powder fouling with water and then spray the WD-40 on while the bore is still wet and then wipe the bore dry.
Then I'll run a patch oiled with R.I.G. rust preventative down the bore. I can put the gun away for years and the bore will be totally rust free.

If you dry the gun before applying the WD-40 following a soap and water scrubbing, you can get a thin layer of flash rusting in the bore before you have a chance to oil it.
 
“Water displacing oils want to wet metals more than water does, so it actually crawls under the water to wet the metal and so lifts the water off the metal.”

This sounds like the result is the same.

And from what little I believe I understand it is the same except that one is an oil that’s ok for wood and leather, things we often have with our BP arms, and is a fair protectorant designed as such.

I hope I’m not misunderstood in that I don’t think anyone should WD-40 if it’s working for you. If it can be used for decades and work well then I believe it’s worthy. I’ve only used Ballistol for about 6 years so my experience pales in comparison.

Again I’d like to hear from those who claim they’ve had issues as I do like to understand the truth of the matter. Several people have claimed such. Maybe they mixed chemicals or had climate issues or something.

And I’ve read of a few issues from people who tried Ballistol, one getting rust.
 
I heat water on the stove and when through cleaning the gun lay the parts in the sink and pour the hot water over them wait a little bit put the parts on a towel the heat evaporates the water and the parts still hot but dry spray on the WD-40.
Other times when still hunting and end up going back to the truck for camp supply's I run a wet patch through the barrel and spray every thing with WD-40 and wipe it down .
 
After cleaning I spray the wet cylinder down with 99% isopropyl alcohol (denatured ethanol should work as well) then roll the cylinder in a paper towel and give it a shake. The alcohol evaporates and dries the cylinder which can be oiled. I get a tiny bit of flash rust but it disappears with oiling. I believe that immersing the gun to clean it is a bit of overkill and makes for too much work. I go through a lot of Ballistol/water solvent, Q-Tips, paper towels and patches. I oil the outside of the gun, oil patch the chambers & bore & drip oil into the works after it is cleaned.
 
I really like using Ballistol as it will mix with the water but allowing it to evaporate leaving just the oil behind. It’s simple and it works well.
Click to expand...





I also use Ballistol with good results. I mix 4 parts water to 1 part Ballistol.

I think WD40 gets a bad rap from people using it in very cold climates.
 
I get my WD-40 in gallons cans. The first one I bought was something like $4.80.

It has been working for me for almost 52 years and I have not been disappointed.
 
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