washing pistol ?

R

Riccardo

Inactive
Hi all,

I also have an Uberti navy 1851 that I consider one of the beutiful pistol ever made ( as design ) i like to shoot with it but after shooting I need to dismount the pistol in all the parts and put everithyng in a hot water , quite long process.
is this absolutly necessary ? any other trik to clean the pistol without dismounting it every time ?

tks BR Riccardo
 
You will get all kinds of recipes on cleaners and ways to do it so here is just one.....No need for hot water to clean your revolver and no need to take it all the way down unless you have been shooting at the range for a while. I take mine down after about 100 shots or so or when it looks like it needs it.
Just go to the dollar store and buy a large bottle of Window cleaner for $1.00-$1.50. Take the barrel off and the cylinder. Lay out some old news papers on your bench. Spray the cylinder holes and then turn the cylinder over and spray the nipples real well. Just soak it all down and let it sit for a few minutes. Now soak a patch and run it down the barrel from the breach end and then scrub the barrel with your brass brush and scrub it hard. Then run a couple more saturated patches down the bore untel it comes clean. Now spray the whole barrel and wipe down with a rag and set it aside.
Now take a pipe cleaner and run the end of it in each nipple hole a few times untel it comes out clean. Use a patch and your brisal brush to clean the cylinders just like you did the barrel . I like to use a doll rod with a rag wraped around it so I can get to the bottom of the chamber. Use a tooth brush to clean the outside of the nipple real well.
Now spray just a little on the arbor or cylinder pin on the frame and wipe it off. Use a q-tip or pipe cleaner to clean around the inside of the back of the frame where the cylinder rides.Cock back the hammer and clean the inside and sides of the hammer with a tooth brush with a little window cleaner sprayed on it.
Now spray everything with WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes then blow it all out with a compressor and wipe it down . use dry patches to clean out the barrel, cylinder holes and so on. Use q-tips to get to the hard to reach areas. Clean out the nipples one more time with your pipe cleaners untel they are dry. I use q-tips to get down in all the little tight spots .Use them as a finnal clean up on the bottom of the cylinder holes too. They will soak up any excess oil nicely.
Now I place a little lube on the cylinder arbor and in the cylinder hole and run a patch with lube down the barrel. Put your Colt back together and your all set for the next time.
This looks like it would take forever but it can be done in less than 10 minutes and I have never had a gun rust on me doing it this way.
 
With mine, I remove the grip frames and the nipples and, in additon to cleaning the chambers and barrel, spray the lock parts with a mixture of oil soap, hydrogen peroxide and alcohol. Then use pipe cleaners to reach the hard parts. Then rinse with hot water and follow by putting the parts in boiling water. Take them out hot , run oily patches into the bore and chambers and then through-out the action.

This is simpler than taking out every part every time as used to be recommended. it is not as simple as Remington Kid's drill which seems to work as well for him.
 
cleaning

Why don't you guys like to take your parts out? After I clean the barrel and the cylinder(the hardest part to clean) I figure the few parts in the frame(trigger,hand,hammer,springs,bolt) are simple and not time consuming to take out and clean and re-assemble. Once I started using Butches Bore Shine for Blackpowder the cleaning goes a lot faster and easier. I soak the nipples in a little cup with the cleaner in there and put the cylinder in there and turn it in the cleaner to saturate all of it. When I take it out of the cleaner and swish it around in a sink of soapy(dish soap) water tyhen rince it to check it the powder fouling almost just rinses off. I end up out side with the parts in a pie pan and flush them down with the WD-40 since that removes water. I dry the parts some before I put them in the pie pan. Anywhoiooo, not taking the gun completely down is a time saver for you guys? I do end up using a good amount of time once I get to cleaning. I hate rust and blackpowder can cause it "right now". Hate rust. just hate it. :mad: I thinlk I may always disassemble the gun and clean everything because I usually fire about at least 200 balls from the gun and the frame gets so much powder fouling inside I feel it should be at cleaned out. When I have left the frame dirty then when shooting the next day the "innards" get sticky workin. I should try some of that window cleaner. Some people spray the gun with carberator cleaner to flush off or out the crud. Carberator cleaner? I bet that would work kinda good. The carb cleaner is cheap. I've thought of just dunking the whole gun in gravy and throwin it out to the dogs and let them lick it sparkling clean.:D
 
I strip mine down completely after each shooting session, clean in hot soapy water and lube. I recently bought two older 1851s that were not cleaned properly and I'll tell ya, the black powder is very destructive.
 
Wayner, I do strip mine all the way down after 100 shots or so but not for a couple of cylders fired through it.
The window cleaner works great and it's really cheap. The first bottle is really large spray bottle for about $1.50 and then you can buy just the window cleaner filler for $1.00 and it will fill your spray bottle one and a half times.
The break cleaner is really fast and cuts all the crud and grease like it was nothing but smoke and it does it really fast. The down side is it's not good to breath the vapors or to get it in your skin and it's really not cheap.
Believe me when I say I'm a nut about keeping my gun's clean and ready to go and I have tried it all or at least most of it over the past 45 years or so and there are some really good methds and products on the market. I just don't believe you have to spend a bunch of money on the so called miracle black powder cleaning products to reach the same results with, a clean and rust free gun. You can do that very cheaply. In fact dish soap and water works good too :) It's just a matter of choice and what you feel does the best job for you. Mike
 
The effective purpose for hot water and dish washing soap is to move the dirt out of the object...

The more hot water, the more effective the flushing process...

The hotter the water rinse, the more effective the drying process...

If you only move the dirt over and don't flush it from the gun...
The effort is moot...

is this absolutely necessary ?
Click to expand...

Yes...

How often? Depends on you... :)
 
That's what I use scalding hot water with dishsoap take off grips as and soak um & scrub um it that bucket , then rinse and soak in another bucket of scalding hot clean water. Take out wipe and patch dry. Heat from hot metal helps dry um. Totally disassemble all all internal parts in frame and remove an brush clean all cone and cylinder with patches an Qtips. Ligthly oil internal parts, screws, arbor.
 
I always strip mine down to the last screw and wash everything but the internal parts in a sinkfull of soapy hot water, scrubbing everything down with a toothbrush and pipe cleaners and q tips. Then I dry everything off and re-lube with my bore butter mixture. From the time I start stripping the gun down to the time I put the last screw back in place is usually about 30 minutes. I may try the window cleaner method and see how that works for me.
But does WD-40 undo the seasoning effect of the natural lubricants? Would brake cleaner or carb cleaner do the same thing? :confused:
 
WD-40 Doesnt seem to bother the seasoned gun or barrel because your not letting it get hot or soaking for a long time. The break fluid will remove the seasoning for sure. I've never been convinced that seasons last anyway in a gun barrel but I still do it.I will usally re-season about three times a years. I love to really scrub and work that bore with a new bore brush . A few hundred strokes is good , then clean patches . Heat the barrel with a light bulb untel I have to wear welders gloves to handle it and then use my special super duper curing lube:) . Slowly let it cool and then a dry patch.
 
RK,
If your super duper curing lube is the same as the lube you sent me. I like it!
I was able to shoot 5 stages with 3 cylinders in one gun. Used the conversion too. so we're talking 25 shots. The '58 rocked! It never even slowed down, however Operator error did produce a sticky bolt because of too much lube on the end of the cylinder pin, hammer forced it down into the internals and the bolt would not release all the way down on halfcock. Shoved the hammer all the way down and full cocked it and it was all better so I could take the cylinder out... Conversion did the same thing at the unloading station...both on the last stage.. so now I'll not jam so much lube on the end of the cylinder pin.

I like your lube and when you make up some more let me know the recipe.
 
Since WD-40 doesn't seem to bother the seasoning I'll try the whole window cleaner and WD-40 routine. After I get the new 5 1/2 inch barrell Remington and get it looked over good I'll have to season the barrell anyway so I may just do the antique 58 at the same time.
 
I looked everywhere for that recipe and can't find it. I was going to send it to you when i sent the lube .
I just made some more and it seems to be better yet and it's just a simple mix but not as thick as the stuff I sent you it is "slicker" Is that a word??? :o
Anyway, I'll play with it a while and if it's any good I'll let you know. Got some other stuff for you to try in the grooves of your bullets too.
 
Smokin_gun

Blow it out with an air hose and then blow dry it with your wife's hair dryer...

Eases the drying effort.

WD40 will "displace" any remaining moisture and then the lube will take care of the rest.

I've done this on my "smokeless" guns for many years and I have never had a problem with it... :)
 
Yep a touch softer would be great, that is the onliest thing I would change. it works really well...if the operator doesn't go overboard with the lube on the end of the cylinder pin....LOL stuff was still soft, but LOTS of it in the internals.
 
Thanks Pointer... I have used the hairdryer on occasion and in a hurry, I bought my own just for that purpose...LoL! My hair is too damn long to mess with a hairdryer...quicker to towel dry jump on my Bike and go down the road ... when I get wherever it's dry. I use a compressor sometimes also. I only use the WD40 on the Cylinder and Cones when I do a Field Cleaning where ever I am. I don't use it in bores or scews though...seasoned barrels I like to keep seasoned..that come from shootin them and using the preferred lube when shootin them. Kinda like a seasoned pipe... Normally I'll come home get 2 buckets of scaldin hot water 1 soapy 1 clear with lids and go to work..Sun's mostly always out and winds usually blowin...guess I'm just lucky to live where I do...HeHe!
Thanks for all the ideas and methods I have been know to listen and take direction... but never under fire, instinct always rules...LoL!
SG
 
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I clean mine in the garage, weather permitting. If it is cool, the water is too cool for the parts to dry by evaporation.

I have a couple industrial heat guns, put the small parts in a little handled strainer, blow hot, 1000 degree F heat through the basket, less than a minute the parts are too hot to handle. Glob of bore butter in the palm, drop the parts, a few at a time into the hand, the butter melts, the parts are well coated, pick 'em out and drop the rest in.
Rest of the butter, wipe the pistol down, heat it, watch the stuff flow into all the crevices. Never a speck of rust. Just wipe 'er down to keep from losing your grip when you go to shoot..

Cheers,

George

SMOKE,

Has VOY and THR been offline the past couple days? Can't get on.
 
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