want to trim cases on case prep machine

L

labnoti

New member
I want to trim cases on a case prep machine. This is for a few hundred large handgun cases at a sitting.

So I'm looking for a cutter and case length gauge that will screw into a case prep center, along with the chamfer, deburr, primer pocket, and brush tools.

I want to spin the cutter and pilot gauge on a spindle while I hold the case with my fingers over the cutter, centered by the pilot gauge.

Is there a better way to trim a few hundred cases quickly?

I see Lyman and Lee have the pilot case length gauges. Do I have to modify the cutter to attach it to a prep center spindle?
 
I think I found it, Lee "THREADED CUTTER FOR CASE PREP STATIONS" 90468

That's what I was looking for. Well, since I can't delete my thread, I'll still appreciate any input on my planned method. Thanks
 
Check to see if the assorted pilots and cutters interchange.
However, handgun cases a rarely ever require trimming. Even with hot loads. There's no chamfering involved with 'em either.
 
They may not need trimming for headspacing, but I don't see how revolver cases can crimp consistently without being trimmed.

Correct me if I'm mistaken. I've only loaded a couple dozen thus far and have been doing it all by hand tool.

They may not need a chamfer in the proper sense because they will be flared by the die, but I can see the case edge is not smooth. Trimming and or chamfering and deburring will clean it up. I can see how some people might just depend on the resizing die to clean the edge, but I don't see good results with that alone.

My plan is to trim to length, chamfer (only to clean inside edge), deburr, knock the chips off on a spinning brush and uniform the primer pocket.
 
I have never trimmed a straight wall handgun case. Never.

When I seat the bullet, I have my dies adjusted so that the seat/crimp function does not exist. I seat then crimp.

I crimp by feel. I have taught myself to do this and get very consistent crimping.
 
labnoti said:
Is that better than having cases of consistent length? Why?
Click to expand...
Before the internet, cases had to be all of the same length to get consistent crimps.
After the internet was invented, along with forums, cases were magically able to be crimped consistently without being the same length.:D
 
k4swb said:
Before the internet, cases had to be all of the same length to get consistent crimps.
After the internet was invented, along with forums, cases were magically able to be crimped consistently without being the same length.:D
Click to expand...
Swb, I have been assised in loading by an old head for most of my time reloading and he told me that pistol cases are different than rifle and that they don’t need to be trimmed, ever.... he has been reloading since the 60’s.... now I am no expert and he would say the same about himself..... but if it’s been that way since he has started reloading, how would the internet or magic make that change. If it were rifle I would agree they need to be trimmed, or even sig .357 due to it being like a rifle round with a shoulder and neck (but I don’t even have experience with sig rounds, just going off of what I know about rifle cases and I would think would apply to sig)

Now I understand cases need to be the same length to get even crimps and seating depth and so on.... so in my mind, what has changed since the 60’s that would require pistol rounds to need trimming now? Or is it a standard for revolver ammo that is now being applied to semi auto pistol that shouldn’t be?
 
For the most part, straight wall handgun cases don't need to be trimmed. Have yet to see them "grow" like bottle neck rifle cases do. It was that way 100 years ago and it remains that way today. Any slight change in the amount of crimp applied to a case that is .001" or .002" longer or shorter is insignificant when weighed against the many other variables (bullet, seating depth, powder, etc.) in determining handgun round performance. Just MHO.

Don
 
Labnoti you are on the right track, if you are loading mixed headstamp brass there are absolutely differences in length. And just like you think they should all be trimmed to the same length OR separated by head stamp for best results. I trim all my 44 brass with a lee trimmer and it makes for nice ammo.

That being said you can get away with not trimming but again the results wont be as nice. Its up to you how much time you wish to spend preparing your brass, no matter the others opinions.

I use the lee trimmers for two reasons, one they are cheap which leads to number two, its fine if they aren't terribly fast because you in fact only need to do it once. Not every time you reload said cases.

FYI I chuck hornady 44 cases because the start off way to short (plus their brass is way to soft in my opinion).

What caliber are ya loading?
 
scherf said:
Swb, I have been assised in loading by an old head for most of my time reloading and he told me that pistol cases are different than rifle and that they don’t need to be trimmed, ever.... he has been reloading since the 60’s.... now I am no expert and he would say the same about himself..... but if it’s been that way since he has started reloading, how would the internet or magic make that change. If it were rifle I would agree they need to be trimmed, or even sig .357 due to it being like a rifle round with a shoulder and neck (but I don’t even have experience with sig rounds, just going off of what I know about rifle cases and I would think would apply to sig)

Now I understand cases need to be the same length to get even crimps and seating depth and so on.... so in my mind, what has changed since the 60’s that would require pistol rounds to need trimming now? Or is it a standard for revolver ammo that is now being applied to semi auto pistol that shouldn’t be?
Click to expand...

I think you need to reread my post.
If the cases are not the same length, they will never crimp the same.
Doesn't matter what type. Different length = different crimp.
 
Back in the dark ages, BI,(Before Internet), AND when I was shooting IMSHA (handgun silhouette), I shot a contender in 44 mag for production standing and unlimited.

I most certainly DID trim to all the same length. The load was tuned for THAT gun and it did make a difference. Crimp and neck tension was as much the same as it could be.

It only had to be done the first time a case was loaded. I often used new cases, they were pretty much all the same length, but the case mouths were ragged, not square and the crimps were all over the place. Take a close look at a new or once fired case mouth under about 10X magnification. You'll see what I mean. The first thing to do is run the case through a full length sizer. That takes the dents out and makes it round. Then find the shortest case, trim to that length. They DO need to be chamfered, both inside and out, but just enough to remove the burrs.

Those loads also worked well in my SBH Ruger, I sometimes shot standing with it.

The Lee cutters are a lot faster than the lathe type trimmer I was using, IIRC it was a Wilson. The problem with the Lee's is that are NOT adjustable for length. They're set for Minimum trim-to-length. You CAN make them trim shorter by taking some length off the pilot that rides on the case spinner. But once shortened it will always trim shorter. Solution to that is make one shorter for a special application, then buy another one to be left full length.
 
That is exactly what I did with mine Snuffy. A little touch on the bench sander and my desired length was set on the trimmer.
 
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