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Walther PPK feed problems
- Thread starter On Target
- Start date
Before you touch the barrel or the ramp, have you checked your magazine?
Are the lips parallel and straight?
Upon disassembly, is the spring straight or does it have a kink in it?
Is the follower in good shape?
No dents on the magazine tube?
Next, look at the type of ammo you're trying to shoot.
Factory or handloads? Regardless, did you try dropping each round into the chamber of the disassembled gun?
Flying ashtrays (hollow points) may not have an ogive conducive to semiautomatic feeding. Have you tried other types of ammo and found that they work?
Inspect your breechface for burrs which may cause hangups. It should be smooth and your finger shouldn't catch on any displaced metal. Be sure to check around the firing pin hole too for burrs.
Sorry if I'm being evasive, but I'd like to rule out the lesser causes of misfeeds before tackling the mroe expensive jobs.
Cleaning up a ramp isn't hard, but try those other suggestions first. If you have to touch your ramp, it's not a matter of how shiny but how smooth it is. Whether you use files, a dremel tool (ugh) or emery cloth, go very very slow and test occasionally with dummy ammo. I don't recommend opening any part of the barrel which supports the case. While a .380 is low pressure compared to its larger brethen, it's still not good to risk a blowout (in case the brass is weak).
For greater details, Gun Doc George Stringer or our own gunsmiths here may have more courage than I to share greater details. Mebbe you should take it to a 'smith for $20-30?
Are the lips parallel and straight?
Upon disassembly, is the spring straight or does it have a kink in it?
Is the follower in good shape?
No dents on the magazine tube?
Next, look at the type of ammo you're trying to shoot.
Factory or handloads? Regardless, did you try dropping each round into the chamber of the disassembled gun?
Flying ashtrays (hollow points) may not have an ogive conducive to semiautomatic feeding. Have you tried other types of ammo and found that they work?
Inspect your breechface for burrs which may cause hangups. It should be smooth and your finger shouldn't catch on any displaced metal. Be sure to check around the firing pin hole too for burrs.
Sorry if I'm being evasive, but I'd like to rule out the lesser causes of misfeeds before tackling the mroe expensive jobs.
Cleaning up a ramp isn't hard, but try those other suggestions first. If you have to touch your ramp, it's not a matter of how shiny but how smooth it is. Whether you use files, a dremel tool (ugh) or emery cloth, go very very slow and test occasionally with dummy ammo. I don't recommend opening any part of the barrel which supports the case. While a .380 is low pressure compared to its larger brethen, it's still not good to risk a blowout (in case the brass is weak).
For greater details, Gun Doc George Stringer or our own gunsmiths here may have more courage than I to share greater details. Mebbe you should take it to a 'smith for $20-30?
Thanks for the tips! I'll try each. I've been using factory ball ammo (UMC) and only have the initial feed problem when chambering the first round. I don't ride the slide forward but released it 'smartly' as the owner's manual says... but the first round always gets hung up. The gun has only around 50 rds thru it and the mags have never been dropped. Thanks for the help.
On Target,
Don't work on your gun until you've got about 500 rounds through it whether its ball ammo or HP. Sometime new guns need a break-in period and yours is relatively new. Please give it a chance to settle in before you start working on it. Also, if it's under warranty, you should return it to the warranty station if you're still experiencing failures. It's their responsiblity and you working on it voids the factory warranty.
Don't work on your gun until you've got about 500 rounds through it whether its ball ammo or HP. Sometime new guns need a break-in period and yours is relatively new. Please give it a chance to settle in before you start working on it. Also, if it's under warranty, you should return it to the warranty station if you're still experiencing failures. It's their responsiblity and you working on it voids the factory warranty.