I have the same gun, only made approximately a year earlier AC 42.
The letter code suffix on the serial number has nothing to do with the month of manufacture, other than higher letters are later in the year.
The serial numbers for P.08s and P.38s run in 4 digit blocks, then start over with an added letter. SO the first gun made in the year is 0001 and this goes to 9999 then starts over with 0001 a-9999a..
then b, c, and so on.
The number 359 is the WaA pruf number for the inspectorate at the plant.
WaffenAmt (Weapons Office) inspectorate were assigned to all manufacturing plants, sometimes under a single number, sometimes more than one.
The symbol above the number is a Nazi Eagle. There are several versions (including with swastika) but the eagle is often poorly struck and only looks like some lines (the wings) The other markings are various proof marks, some are stylized eagles, some aren't. Every weapon accepted for service by the Nazis will have both a WaA stamp and various proof marks. I can ID some of them, with clear pics, (and if I dig up the right book,
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The safety drops the hammer, BUT NEVER TRUST IT!!!!! Always, Always ALWAYS point the gun in a safe direction when applying the safety with a round in the chamber!!!! (if it breaks, the gun CAN fire when you put the safety ON!!!)
The P.38 should NOT be fired with +p ammo!!! The gun was made to run on standard 115gr/124gr FMJ ammo, and may not be reliable with anything else.
Shooting +p will likely lead to some kind of breakage if done routinely, and might result in something breaking at any time its fired. Save the hot defensive ammo for more modern guns.
Interestingly, and uncommonly, the P.38 ejects to the LEFT!
Consider getting a reproduction holster. Good condition originals can run several hundred $$, a repro works just as well, looks as good, (or better) and is LOTS cheaper. Also holds a spare magazine.
Hope this helps!
yours seems to be is what would be called 'non-force matched', in other words, the parts are original to each other.
this is the first time I've ever seen anyone use the term "non-force match". Usually we just say "original" or "matching numbers".
A "force match" gun is where a missing part is replaced with a part from another gun that has the same last two serial number digits. Only the last two digits of the serial number were stamped on many of the small parts, which has led to people installing a non-original (to the gun) part but having the same last two numbers, "forcing" a match with the serial number. Dishonest people will claim its all original, because the numbers match, and claim the value of an all original gun.
