walker questions

bushmaster65

New member
Why does the walker models have this cutout in the trigger guard? At first I thought it was a defect but noticed all internet pics showed same thing.
IMG_20120820_201845.jpg


* Anyone know a good supplier of conical bullets for these old .44's?

* Took the walker out today and had to pinch the caps to get them to stay on the nipples. The nipples are garbage from the factory. I also have a nipple on my dragoon that was too big from the factory.
So I need to know who sells on the internet, the best #11 nips for the walker and dragoons, price be dammed.

* While trying to insert the wedge pin in my walker when I first got it, I pushed too hard and now the spring "sits up" a lot higher than it did. This makes it impossible to insert without using a VERY Small flat head screwdriver to depress the spring while it enters the arbor. Once started however, the pin travels the rest of the way unhindered.
So the spring is held by a pin instead of a screw such as the dragoon. I have punches to remove the pin but my question is: Can the spring be repaired? Can the pin be reinserted or does it have to be riveted on that one side? Would it be easier to just buy a whole new spring and pin from Taylor's?

There gents, chew on that and tell me what you come up with.

BTW- One more thing. While running 40gr of pyro 'P' in the walker today,
The loading lever dropped almost every time. I saw a pic on Black
Powder Times of a metal clip that slid under the barrel of there
walker and onto the loading lever. Anybody know where to find
something like that??
 
Coupla thoughts...

The cut out is the base of the retaining clip for the hammer spring.

You might get better results if you just cast you own bullets. I get far better consistency in the cast bullets I make than the bullets I purchase. I have not yet proven that they are better downrange but I sure do feel better putting them in my revolvers.

Only revolvers I own which need 11 caps are the Rugers. My Dragoons and Walker take 10s. I swapped out the nipples on the Walker with Tresos. They still take tens. Do a search for them on the internet and then just price compare.

I'd buy a new spring and pin or just buy the whole wedge.

You can also get a replacement loading lever spring clip. That may be what you need. You can start by trying to bending the spring forward so that it applies more force to hold the loading lever in place. But you risk breaking it in which case you'll need a new one.

My guess is that you and I are not the only ones who will report the dropping lever problem. SLTM1 had a Walker for sale (See his May 28th post in the for sale forum) that had a lever retainer of ingenious design. I am going to make one when I gets around to it.
 
Last edited:
robhof

The loading lever problem goes all the way back to the originals. I saw one in a museum and it had a discoloration around the barrel about half way down the loading lever, the attendant explained that it had a leather thong to keep the lever up during firing. I also cast my own and use the ROA conical mold from Lee, I also have a REAL mold from Lee that works with the Walker and my ROA's. Mine is an ASM and was unfired but sold as used on an auction site. I got a great deal because the seller listed it as a USMR pistol, because that's what the cylinder said.
 
See photo of how I reshaped the rammer retainer spring so the lever won't fall. If you put too steep of a step in the spring tip you won't be able to lower the lever.
 

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