Wads

1

1860Army

New member
Hello,

Which wads are best to use in a Euroarms .44 caliber New Model Army revolver and should they be lubed or dry? I've seen Ox Yoke, Grey Smoke and an unbranded version sold through Midway USA. Thank you.

Joe
 
I've used the Ox Yoke wonder wads for decades. You can make your own too with felt pad, a hole punch, & lube-several videos on Youtube.
 
For several years I would buy 1/8" thick sheets of wool felt and with a 7/16" hole punch I would chuck the punch into a drill press and on slow speed punch out wads. Then I would lube them with 50/50 olive oil and beeswax. Now I just buy a couple of 500 count bags of 45 cal 1/2" fiber wads from track of the Wolf, lube them and split them into half or thirds and have well over 1000 wads for a fraction of the cost of the Ox-yolk or wonder Wads.
 
I've never used wads unless I want to load a soft load. Most of my revolvers shoot their best with loads that would leave little room for a wad. OK there's room for a thin wad, I don't stuff 'em slam full, but I don't have much bullet jump either. When I load powder puff loads, I see value in an inert filler or a thick wad to decrease bullet jump. I always apply 50/50 beeswax/crisco lube on top of the bullet.
 
Go read the colt instructions from the 1860s that came with the guns. Wads grease and such is all 1920-2024 BS.
 
True, but they weren't firing more than one or two cylinders at a time back in the day unlike today when one fires six or more loaded cylinders at the range.
 
I was taught ...
Powder - Ball - Lube on top of ball .
Grandfather said that lube over the ball prevented a chain-fire in revolvers and lubed the ball as it went down the barrel ... but mainly prevented the pesky chain-fire !
Gary
 
radom said:
Go read the colt instructions from the 1860s that came with the guns. Wads grease and such is all 1920-2024 BS.
Click to expand...

It's not BS for modern shooters that shoot a lot more.

4V50 Gary said:
Both radom and Bishop Creek raise valid points. I use cornmeal filler in lieu of wads. Critters get to eat too!
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Cornmeal takes up too much room that could be utilized by more powder. I use thin wads that don't take up a lot of room.
 
Well I am or maybe was a guy who used lubed felt wads. But after watching " Old Ranger" and his extensive test video's on YouTube I may not use them any more. His Pietta revolvers shoot much better without a wad under the ball. As far as powder contamination it is very much a thing if you are gonna leave them "charged" for a long time. Mine will stay charged all season unless I take a shot at game or just want to shoot it. In this case with a patched ball, I put a half inch non lubed felt wad between the powder and patched ball. My Kentucky still shoots very well with that load column. My 1860 snubby carry piece, gets no wad with beeswax tallow on top. In the end do what YOU want I don't think there is any wrong way in this. The only thing that IS a fact is with no kind of lube when shooting a cap and ball revolver makes cleaning them difficult.
 
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Me I take them apart and cylinders and barrels go in warm soapy water and they clean right up. The main issue I have is the dragoon guns as after like 6 cylinder loads they tend to try to drag and have to be pull down and lube the arbors. The 1860s and 51s will run till the cows come home or my hands crap out. Huge help is lube with petro jelly or mobile 1 grease or even red and tacky grease vs the cussed yellow goop crap.
 
My brother and I bought our first 1851 Navy from Navy Arms in 1968. I’ve been shooting them ever since. Have always put lube over the ball. Started with Crisco, now use a Crisco/ Bees wax mix. I experimented with Wonder Wads and homemade wads but always went back to lubing over the ball. The fouling stays soft and the cylinder never drags, even shooting all day at cowboy matches.
 
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