VZ-58 "beaver barf": Have you sanded/brightened color?

I

Ignition Override

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A few people have done so with light sanding, and adding either Minwax Red Oak or Sedona Red stain. I don't see how the stain can begin to soak, even a tiny bit. into what is mostly a hard resin plastic material........

They didn't describe which 'grit' sandpaper (one thought it was 400 or 600), or whether very Fine rubbing then allows one or possibly two layers of stain to adhere to the wood-impregnated resin furniture--then dry.

One gent did this basic procedure, then added one layer of thin Tung Oil each day until about five layers had been used.

We know that others have simply (only) added a layer or two of polyurethane or similar clear sealant, to increase the color's brightness.
-No stains etc, just a poly etc.

Which method seems to work best, even if the result seems overly shiny and much more orange/red than the original Czech 'furniture'?

Unlike my imported AKMs such, a very bright reddish orange on my Czechpoint VZ-58 would provide a strange, extremely unique appeal: Google Images.
 
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Update, despite the apparent lack of any interest:

Light sanding on the furniture with 400 grit, the application of a thin layer of 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and 100% Tung Oil didn't work.

It never dried after 48 hours or so, even with excess wiped off, and the gun being a few hours per day in front of a fan.

* But---Minwax Fast-Drying Poly brings out the color quite well and no fingerprints after 12 hours.
 
Don't have my VZ58 anymore. Never tried to sand it. But I'd assume that the resin is impregnated using a vacuum chamber of some sort so it should be thoroughly bonded to the chip material.

My guess is that your best bet to bring out a shiny gloss finish would be to buff it gently with very fine polish such as is suitable for polymers. When I worked with polymers before (acetone to be specific) we made some medical parts such as for fluidics and they had callouts that they had to be so clear that water could be seen moving through them by the naked eye. They were buffed with a very fine compound and then subjected to some sort of acidic vapor under vacuum that really brought out an immaculate surface finish.

Of course I highly doubt you'll be able to do the latter but hopefully something I've said here inspires something that helps you out.
 
Tung oil is the slow boat from China. It can take a week between coats to polymerize. Fast-drying resins like the wipe-on varnishes are usually heated in a sealed container to get the resing crosslinking mostly done (aka, polymerized oil) so there is little left to complete after application.
 
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