vibratory cleaner ?

there are lots of liquids you can use, I like brass brite just mix it in good, every one has a favorite !!!
 
What type ???

Does anyone use liquid in a vibratory cleaner ?

That is how it works as you need the liquid action to do it's job. When I worked for a living, we had a larger industrial cleaner, in the instrument shop. It really did the trick. Currently I have a smaller one and it just takes a little longer..:)

I just realized that we need to identify what type of vibrator you are talking about. I'm referring to the type that has a tub that you fill with a special liquid cleaner. Perhaps this is not what you are referring to. ….. :confused:

Be Safe !!!
 
"Does anyone use liquid in a vibratory cleaner ?"

Just as a channel check when I see or think vibratory cleaner I see one of these type devices. When using one I normally use a dry media like crushed walnut shells or crushed corn cob media. Crushed walnut media more as a cleaner and crushed corn cob media more for polishing. When polishing I normally add a little polish such as the mentioned Nu Finish.

I also have used a rotary case cleaner or case tumbler. When I see or think rotary or tumbler case cleaner I see something like this which I use a liquid cleaner in. A few drops of dawn dish washing liquid in clean fresh water.

Finally there are ultra sonic case cleaners which are a different animal. :)

Ron
 
rebs:
I have the cabelas vibratory cleaner, it is a big tub that you would put crunched walnut in

Then I would just stick with the dry media mentioned but then too, I never tried using a liquid cleaner in a vibratory type bowl. If it didn't leak it may work but if it did leak down onto and into the motor things could get ugly. :)

Ron
 
My Dillon Vibratory tumbler strictly warns against using any liquids in it. They are designed to run dry with corn or walnut dry media. If you want a wet tumbler, get a FART.

Best price I've seen is on Amazon and is where I got mine a few years ago.
 
If using range pick up; make sure all the dried dirt and mud are cleaned out of the case insides.

Then use walnut or corn cob, and a Tbsp or 2 of NuFinish and a Tbsp of paint thinner. Run the machine for 15 min, add brass and cut a used dryer sheet into 3-4 pieces. Dryer sheet catches a lot of the dust. Add second sheet to catch even more dust. Mine come out clean and shiney in 1-1 1/2 hr.
 
rebs asked:
Does anyone use liquid in a vibratory cleaner ?

No.

Some people use some sort of automotive polish in it, with varying results, but I do not use any additives to my vibratory tumbler.

If I want to wet tumble, I have a Harbor Freight cement mixer that I use with bronze pins (better than the low-allow stainless steel most use) to get a "jewelry grade" shine. But since that level of shine has to do with showing-up fellow reloaders at gun shows and ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with case life or case function, I rarely use it. Generally, my Frankfort Arsenal vibratory tumbler gets my brass clean enough for my next use.

As far as I am concerned, the decision between a rotary tumbler using pins and a vibratory tumbler using media has entirely to do with whether you want to "show up" other reloaders at the range with how shiny your brass is.

For my part, I take pride in showing my fellow reloaders how little I can process my brass and still have it perform flawlessly.
 
I prefer clean and shiny brass & nickel. I don't want to show anybody up, but I don't want to the worst looking brass/nickel either.
 
I have one tumbler from harbor freight and a old rock tumbler (vibe not can)that you can use wet. tried them once with dish soap and water, nothing interesting happened. washed out some crud... media separator and soapy water is good for giving muddy cases a quick wash and rinse before tumbling in dry media, let cases dry first.
 
As far as I am concerned, the decision between a rotary tumbler using pins and a vibratory tumbler using media has entirely to do with whether you want to "show up" other reloaders at the range with how shiny your brass is.

I like my brass in as new condition for myself. I am thoroughly unconcerned with what another re-loader thinks about the cosmetic condition of my brass.

I also like the wet tumbler because it eliminates airborne lead particles.

That has nothing to do with how it looks.

Good Shooting!
 
I use straight walnut in my vibe bowl cleaner. Come out as clean as they need to be after an hour or two. I don't clean every time either. Just when I feel the brass is starting to need it. My brass doesn't hit the ground, so I don't worry about dirt.
 
Brian Pfleuger
I tried your method only I used some NuFinish scratch doctor, must be similar to a polishing compound and it worked great, even removed the tarnish off them and they are clean and shiny
Thank you
 
I've pretty much tried every trick in the book with my vibrater. My final formula for most convenient, most effective, and fastest cleaning is crushed walnut with a couple shakes of Barkeepers Friend and a used dryer sheet cut into strips. One to one and a half hours is all it takes, maybe not as shiny as some other methods but just as clean and done in half the time, plus the media lasts much longer.
 
I have used a standard Lyman Vibratory cleaner for about 30 years before the motor failed, now I use a Cabela's Vibratory cleaner, same idea.

I have 2 small buckets with lids, one contains corn cob with 1-2 TBS of Lyman "Turbo Brite"or Cabela's Case polish. The second contains corn cob media with 1-2 TBS of Nu-Finish Auto polish.

Bucket #1 is used to clean fired, soot and powder-burned cases before resizing to protect my dies to whatever extent may be helpful.

Bucket #2 is used to clean the resizing lube off the sized cases before priming and loading.

Handgun cases resized in carbide dies don't need bucket #2 but I do it anyway as a matter of habit and an attractive product signals some degree of perfectionism that reflects confidence in manufacturing technique which, if nothing else, impresses me.
 
Brian Pfleuger said:

I throw a blob of polishing compound in mine.
How long did a 'blob' of polishing/rubbing compound take to break down in the media mix? I ask because of issues I've had with liquids.

I drip a few drops of the Frankford Arsenal liquid polish (or other) in and let it run while I decap the cases with my Lee Universal Decapper (recommended).

After that's done I shut it down and add the cases, start again and let it run 2 hours, normally. I get acceptable results although shine could be improved.

Even after letting that sucker run for almost 1/2 hour, I still can get small clumps of polish and media. You'd think it would spread out and mix so this is kinda weird, IMO. How long does a 'blob' take?

I added another hour for total of 3 and that helped with the shine, as did the polish after running for 3 hours (!!!)
 
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