Value of a S&W pre-15 nickel - not pristine

Doyle

New member
I've found a Pre - model 15 nickle plated S&W with some chips in the nickel plating. Grips are aftermarket. There is a little bit of end-shake in the cylinder but that can probably be shimmed. What do you think would be a reasonable price for this pistol as a shooter? Obvioiusly, it isn't worth anything as a collector piece with less-than-perfect nickle plating. Dealer is asking $300 but I'm thinking he'll take $250.

I've been toying with the idea of doing a home reblue job on an old S&W revolver and this might be a good candidate. I know you have to deplate the nickle (sulphuric acid and a reverse electrolysis tank).

Would this make a decently priced project - i.e. would the total outlay of approximately $350 for purchase, deplating, rebluing, and internal tuneup be a decent price for a pre-15 shooter?
 
I think you may be underestimating the repair/reblue costs.

Ask the dealer if he has a gun smith who will do the repair work, even if you plan on doing it yourself, then use that as leverage on the price.

250 sure seems more fair than 300
 
Doyle said:
Obvioiusly, it isn't worth anything as a collector piece with less-than-perfect nickle plating.
This assertion is subjective and depends on how less-than-perfect it actually is. :) Keep in mind that there aren't very many pre-15's around, much less nickel ones, and collector values have been climbing. A refinish will wipe out the gun's collector value unless the finish is truly horrid.

Frankly, if I were attempting a home rebluing project and I didn't have any experience (you don't say either way), I would start with a gun that's blued in the first place so I wouldn't have to worry about messing something up during the deplating process.
 
Chris, I'm kind of thinking along those lines (starting with a blued gun first). I've never done a re-bluing job before so this is as much of an experiment as anything. Whatever gun I choose to go with, I'm thinking of doing a rust-blue treatment. While that kind of bluing does involve much more time, it doesn't require special chemicals. Basically, just a home-made steamer chamber, a way to boil distilled water, a rapid oxidizer, and some inexpensive small supplies.
 
Refinishing a good revolver is a bad choice for a first bluing project. Even more so a plated one. Attempting reverse electrolysis to remove plating is ambitious, but commercial plating stripper is much safer for you and the gun.
A revolver's many curves, flats, and hollows are difficult for experienced refinishers to polish properly with commercial equipment. A simpler contoured gun would be better for a home refinish.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
A revolver's many curves, flats, and hollows are difficult for experienced refinishers to polish properly with commercial equipment. A simpler contoured gun would be better for a home refinish.
FWIW I've been tempted to attempt a home rust bluing project myself, but I've resolved to first buy a very cheap, simply shaped, and all-steel pistol to practice on - something like a broken Ortgies, Ruby, or Unique.
 
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