Using Wall Anchors as 22LR Snapcap in a Revolver

J

JJNA

New member
I recently took to using these yellow wall anchors as 22LR snapcaps for my revolvers. They work very, very well!

However, they do eventually dent the rims of the wall anchors. But just dents and so far no rips, tears, or cracks.

So the question now is, how long do I use them? Do I use them until all edges of the rims are dented and then use fresh ones or continue to use them until they start to crack or tear?

I suppose cost is not much of a factor as these anchors are about $5 for 100 pieces, but I don't want to toss perfectly good anchors/snapcaps just because they have firing pin marks. Since the whole point is to prevent the cylinder recessed areas from being peened by repeated firing pin strikes (these being 22 revolvers), it should be okay as long as those areas continue to be protected by having a layer of plastic on top, no?
 
JJNA, I do the same thing. I usually just turn the wall anchor a little in the cylinder after I fire it once, that way you can get 4 or 5 strikes on each anchor.
 
Once they get dented far enough they defeat the purpose as nothing is cushioning that firing pin. For the purpose of protecting the cylinder wall then I guess like you said as long as the plastic is covering it than it should be fine.
 
How can they be useless? The anchors get dented. Surely the anchors are absorbing the impact of the firing pin instead of the cylinder taking the pounding?
 
There's two things at play when you use .22 snap caps. You want to protect the cylinder and the firing pin. On of the main reasons people use snap caps in centerfire guns is to protect the firing pin from beating against the frame.

Bill and Dragline are suggesting that while you may be protecting your cylinder, you aren't cushioning the firing pin enough to protect it.

Personally, I'm not sure if I agree with them, but they may have some data or experience backing up their statement.

The main question here should be: why do feel the need to dry fire your .22 revolvers? If it's just for the occasional function test or something like that, then wall anchors are probably fine and definitely better than nothing. If you're doing it for practice and dry firing hundreds of times during a session, then invest in some real snap caps.

If the second situation describes what you're doing, then my follow up question would be, why are doing dry fire training with a .22? If you need more hand strength to better control the trigger, then buy a hand exerciser. If you're practicing for potential self defense, you probably shouldn't be using a .22. In fact the only reason, I can imagine wanting to do a LOT of dry fire practice with a .22 is if you're competing in accuracy matches.

So, yeah, that's where these guys are coming from and why they're saying it's useless. It's partially because the wall anchors don't work as well real snaps caps and partially because there aren't a lot of reasons to dry fire a .22 hundreds of times. And if you do happen to have a good reason, then why not invest in real snap caps. It's not like they're expensive.

These seem really nice and cost $6 - http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/9-89807

Or these for $6 - http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/9-40901

Or these for $6 - http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/9-60945

Or these for $4 - http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/9-60963
 
For center fire guns, I do use "real" snap caps, namely, the A-zoom branded aluminum ones with soft, impact-absorbing cores. They are far superior to the spring-loaded types that eventually break.

The problem with 22 snap caps is that they are all very fragile. Most break after moderate use. Others have attested to the fact that the yellow anchors are at least equal or superior to the 22 snap caps and cost far less (I can buy 300 for about $15).

And I still don't understand why they are "useless." They prevent the peening of the cylinder common with dry firing 22 naked. I am pretty sure they also absorb some impact between cylinder and the firing pin, enough to make a difference on the damage to the latter.
 
Are you sure the anchors are preventing cylinder peening? I'll bet a quarter the FP wouldn't hit the cylinder even without the anchors. If it did it would cut completely through the anchors pretty quick.
 
A piece of soft plastic is simply pierced by the firing pin. Plastic does not have the resiliency of brass. While it MIGHT help with chamber peening, it doesn't cushion the fall of the firing pin.
 
This brings up a follow-up question. When a 22 revolver (say S&W model 63 or 18) is dry fired extensively without any snap caps or anchors, what's the typical damage? Is it the firing pin breaking or the cylinder peening? I always thought the main problem with dry firing was the cylinder damage, not the firing pin breakage.
 
After you take your .22 to the range and fire how ever many rounds through it, keep all of those rounds and take them home with you.

You paid for the rounds.
The rounds are now free snap caps.
Good for 4 or so hits by rotating them.

Either stuff a bit of toilet paper in them to keep the crap from getting into your barrel and sitting or clean it once you are done dry firing.

Just a quick patch to remove the residue from the cylinder and barrel.

Clarence
 
A piece of soft plastic is simply pierced by the firing pin. Plastic does not have the resiliency of brass. While it MIGHT help with chamber peening, it doesn't cushion the fall of the firing pin.
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I refute your claim.

Actually plastic with enough softeners in it has a higher resilience than brass. The wall anchors are not pierced, they are indented and do cushion the firing pin. They get pierced after multiple hits and that was addressed in previous posts.
 
You simply don't understand the dynamics of what happens when the firing pin strikes a brass case. :rolleyes:
Saving your empties is cheaper and works very well. Why use anything else?
 
Wall anchors work better than the hard plastic ones linked above. They absolutely cushion the firing pin. Anybody who says otherwise has never tried it.
 
Bill DeShivs


Anyone who says they offer adequate cushioning doesn't understand how guns work! But keep on thinking they work.
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No Bill,

I was not there when you invented the gun! But passed physics 101, while you slept.
 
You can dent a wall anchor with your thumbnail. Try that with a brass case!
There's your physics. The plastic is much softer than brass-argue that. It is not adequately hard to protect the firing pin.
 
By that logic, Bill, a couch cushion has less cushioning that a brick. "If I smack a brick with a two by four, it barely leaves a mark, but if I smack a couch cushion it gets all deformed and out of shape." Softer does not always mean LESS protection. Would you rather put a brick on your forehead and let me smack that brick with a two by four, or would you rather have put a thick couch cushion on your forehead and let me smack that. Which do you think will do more damage to your head and the two by four.
 
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