Using Pyrodex Pellets

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dalegribble

New member
Hi, I am new (very new) to black powder revolvers. I have a brand new 1851 Navy and I am thinking of using the pyrodex pellets for shooting rather than loose black powder to start.

Also questions about the proper loading sequence. Here is my understing.
1. powder or pellet
2. wad
3. ball
4. grease - is grease always necessary if using a wad?
5. caps

Any advice? Thanks.
 
dalegribble said:
Hi, I am new (very new) to black powder revolvers. I have a brand new 1851 Navy and I am thinking of using the pyrodex pellets for shooting rather than loose black powder to start.

Also questions about the proper loading sequence. Here is my understing.
1. powder or pellet
2. wad
3. ball
4. grease - is grease always necessary if using a wad?
5. caps

Any advice? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Ok first welcome to the wonderful world of black powder shooting, I hope that you learn & enjoy this fine sport.. :)

You do have the bassic loading sequence right, & no if you are using the wad you do not neccessarily need any grease over the loaded chambers as a matter of fact you could use the grease over the loaded chambers instead of the wad behind the ball "your choice" just be sure that you have solidly seated the ball "& wad" over the powder charge.

As far as using the pellets, I can not recomend them for a cap & ball revolver because of my bad experience in misfires "where the charge did not ignite after several attempts" & made it neccessary for me to manually extract the ball in one of my Revolving rifles, also those pellets although can be obtained in 30 grain sizes, in most cases is not recomended to be shooting a 1851 navy .44 with more than 28gr. "I may be wrong but that is from orriginal military loading specks for a 1860 Army .44 caliber" so I would suggest loading with loose Pyrodex P & powder measure.
 
Raider2000 is right on the mark.

Either lubed wad or grease; using both is unnecessary overkill.

Do not use pellets in a revolver. 30 gr is not unsafe, but it's more than you need and will result in reduced accuracy. And it's hard on the gun. You are much better off to use loose powder.
 
Some folks use a small dab of grease on top of the wad (& under the ball) to keep the fouling soft, even if only in a couple of cylinders. If you're using "greased" prelubricated wads, then it's not necessary, but if using dry wads it can help.
 
I've been using the Pyrodex pistol pellets and have had nothing but success with them, in the 1858 and the Rogers & Spencer. They are reliable, meaning they set off easily. Seems like a perfect load and are accurate. I have found that they clean easily without much extra effort and have found no pitting or rust in my pistols. They cost a mint but no powder measures to fumble with so I guess it's worth it.
 
convenience

I haven't used the pellets yet, been thinking about it though. I read somewhere where someone had superglued his pellet to the ball and was loading everything at one time. Don't know how well this would work, but if you wanted to have some quick reloads then this might work just fine.
Bill
 
pyro pellets

I have used them in my '58 Rem 'buffalo' 12" bbl pistol, they are expensive but I tryed them out for a possible 'fast reload' if on a hunting trip. I use loose 3F BP usually and keep the pellets in 'reserve'. they sure are convenient. uncertain if that would be too much of a charge for your '51. I also use a felt wad (make my own) overpowder with a dab of grease atop then load the slug or ball. I make my conical slugs from Lee mold.
 
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