Using JB Weld to Bed Action .... Hear Me Out!

R

riverwalker76

New member
OK ... so I've done my research and want to bed my Remington 700 SPS Varmint that I just purchased yesterday. I've done my research and have heard of guys using JB Weld to bed an action.

I purchased a Brownell's Acraglas Gel kit at the gun shop yesterday, but it doesn't seam to have enough material to do what I want, so here it goes.

I have 10 packets of JB Weld in the shop that I bought last year on sale, and haven't used them for anything else. I have more than enough material there.

Devcon Steel Putty, which is what a lot of people use and like to securely bed an action in a large caliber rifle isn't as strong as JB Weld.

Decon Steel Putty: Flex Strength- 5600 PSI ; Tensile Strength- 2800 PSI

JB Weld: Flex Strength - 7320 PSI ; Tensile Strength - 3960 PSI

JB Weld is stronger and costs much less.

Am I making sense here?

Should I use it , or am I missing something that some of you more experienced users have found by trial and error?

Please give me your input.
 
I plan on using either Liquid Wrench White Lithium grease, Vaselene, or Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish. That's what everyone who has used Devcon Plastic Steel Putty uses.
 
How are you going to get the JB Weld to stick to the plastic SPS stock?

If the SPS stock had an aluminum bedding block, then I'd say "Yes, go for it!". But the SPS stock is injection molded, fiberglass-filled nylon. As such it is slick and will flex and twist when you shoot, causing the rigid JB Weld (metal-filled epoxy) to break loose.

My recommendation is to get a better stock and bed it.

JB Weld is a good bedding material, but the stock material is wrong.
 
To answer the first question, yes, you can use JB Weld to bed your rifle. The acraglas kit has more than enough resin and hardener to bed several rifles, but if you really feel a need to do it your way, go ahead and use the JB Weld. I have seen rifles successfully bedded using dozens of varieties of epoxy, fiberglass resin, acrylic resin, and even hot melt glue.

To answer a question that was not asked, the JB Weld will probably not stick to the SPS stock. You would be better off with a different stock.
 
Are you going to fill up the voids in the forearm with the jb weld?If so there are other things that you could use.Like that foam stuff that you put in cracks around doors or windows.Me if this is the case I would not fill them up.
Just saying.
 
A new stock isn't an option right now. I just bought a used US Optics from a buddy to put on my SPS Tactical, and I'm tapped out right now.

As for JB Weld sticking ... I'm not too worried about that. JB Weld will stick to just about any porous and non-porous material and adhere properly. If it will stick to PVC, ABS, and Delrin it will stick to my injection molded stock.

At any rate I plan on assuring a mechanical bond to the stock by drilling several 1/4" diameter by 1/8" deep holes at different angles in the material to assure adhesion.

I also plan on degreasing and cleaning the interior of the stock with Denatured Alcohol prior to the application.

Also, I only plan on filling up the recoil lug area and the areas where the receiver meets the stock. The barrel will be free floating.

For the record. The shrink rate on JB Weld is 0.0001%.

Any suggestions?
 
in another discussion on another forum THEY decided the only bolt to use for pulling a stuck case from die is a 1/4" bolt, before I was told that was the politically correct bolt I was using 5/16" and 3/8". I got the feeling they did not hear a word I said.

There is another material you can get from Home Depot and Lowes that is used for setting anchors in concrete, cheaper, stronger and you get more for your money, 3m sells it but the price doubles when it has their name on the tube.

I also use the A&B glass kit from Lowes, the strength is on the package, it Acraglas was proud of the strength they would label the package.

"Decon Steel Putty: Flex Strength- 5600 PSI ; Tensile Strength- 2800 PSI

JB Weld: Flex Strength - 7320 PSI ; Tensile Strength - 3960 PSI

JB Weld is stronger and costs much less".
 
JB weld will work just as well as any other goop for barrel bedding and as for the stock if its scruffed up and chewed up a bit to make the JB stick it will stick like the fat sister in law.
 
JB Weld for me!

I use JB Weld for all my bedding projects. Your idea of drilling holes here and there is a good idea. I personally haven't bedded to a synthethic. Shoe polish works well for a release agent for JB.
 
Bedding can be as easy or as difficult as a person wants to make it. Nothing wrong with using JB Weld to bed your gun, however you'd be a wise man to rethink your choice of release agent(s).

The whole idea behind bedding is to make a tension free register for the barreled action to reside in. It should be inert to ambient weather and have a high tolerance to chemical exposure, like acids and alkalies. The resin system should have a low shrinkage, high shear, high compression, and high shore hardness.

That's it. Very simple in thought, a little more complicated in practice/application.

Use a commercial mold release agent. They are available in aerosol form and are very affordable, usually under ten bucks a can.

Results can vary but here's what mine look like:

DSC_0102.jpg


DSC_0105.jpg


DSC_0033-3.jpg
 
That's really Sweet Longrifles,Inc. :eek: IS that using JB?

I also forgot to mention that I agree with the comment about Acraglas Gel posting their info for everyone to see. From what I can tell it is no different in consistency than the Devcon '5 Minute Epoxy' that comes in a dual syringe. I'll use the Acraglas to bed my 22s and maybe my .223, but I'm not going to use it on my .308s.
 
Plain old paste wax is a great release agent . Don't forget to fill any voids in the receiver with modeling clay before applying your release agent of choice !
 
I done some with JB weld!
back in the early 70s there was a shortage of epoxys, why ? I dont know
JB weld was easy to get hold of, so a guy came into the shop and wanted a 375HH glassed. I told him that I was all out of Devcon and I would need to use another brand he agreed to it. so I used the JB and it worked great.
LongRifles is right you can use a lot of diffrent typoe of epoxie.'
Lately I have been useing marine tex.
It looks like a CNC cut an the beding job LongRifles has posted.

Ed
 
Update ....

Well, I used the JB weld last night, and everything turned out ok. Although, I'm not happy with the looks of it, so I'm going to redo it.

SOme of the areas weren't removed enough for the bedding to make a real difference, so I need to sand it down further to make a better impression and hold. This is my first time doing this, so it's a learning experience.

I used Kiwi Neutral Shoe Polish as a release agent, and it worked wonderfully. I did not mate the metal to the stock, so I'm really happy about that. In calling JB Weld Co. today, I found that the best release agents when using JB for this application is either Vaselene or WD-40. I think I'll try the WD-40 as it will allow the lowest tolerances for the best fit.

Another thing that I am going to do is really scrub my stock down with a degreaser like PB Blaster Degreaser in order the make sure I get all of the residual gun oils off of the stock this time.

Thanks for all of your input and encouragement. You all have been a great help.
 
I looked at Grainger and I couldn't make up my mind on which one to get!

Which mold release would you suggest? THere are different chemicals for different applications.

Also, if I use a commercial mold release do I still need to fill the voids in my receiver with modeling clay?
 
I looked at Grainger and I couldn't make up my mind on which one to get!
Click to expand...

I bought the stuff in the green can. And it works well.

Which mold release would you suggest? THere are different chemicals for different applications.
Click to expand...
Here is something that might provide guidance.

http://www.mann-release.com/prodgude.htm

Also, if I use a commercial mold release do I still need to fill the voids in my receiver with modeling clay?
Click to expand...

If you plan to permanently glue your receiver to the stock, don't use the modeling clay. Otherwise, to keep glue risers from working their way into the nooks and crannies, yes, use modeling clay.

Back in the days when the M1a ruled the firing line, I heard of people who glued their actions into the stocks. When the barrel needed to be replaced, they busted the stock off.

I always thought that was crazy.
 
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