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Using CLR
- Thread starter cw308
- Start date
Dfariswheel
New member
That's a new one to me.
I'm always reluctant to experiment on expensive guns with non-firearms products.
Many will work and sometimes very well, but sometimes they do serious damage.
I just prefer using products developed expressly for use in firearms.
For years I struggled to get the carbon out of my AK-74 gas block and the muzzle brake with limited success, even though the block and inside the brake are hard chrome lined.
First I bought Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
Even with soaking several times for an hour or more the insides were still black.
Then I tried packing the insides with paper towel and soaked the towel with Hoppe's #9.
The towel would turn bright blue from the copper left by the copper plated steel bullets, but no matter how many times I packed and soaked the inside was still black.
Even trying to help it along with a Lead-Away cloth still left the insides black.
Then I bought a new rifle and thought I'd try something faster for copper then Hoppe's #9.
I bought a bottle of Shooter's Choice Extra Strength Copper Remover.
It worked great in the new rifle barrel so just as a test I packed the gas block and muzzle brake with paper towel and soaked it.
I was very surprised that after a short soak the insides were down to the hard chrome with most all of the carbon fouling removed.
The smell is a very strong ammonia smell so keep your nose away.
My buddy recently told me that he'd tried a new copper remover that has almost no smell and works even better then the Sweet's 7.62 and Shooter's Choice he's been using for years.
I "think" it was Bore Tech brand.
I'm always reluctant to experiment on expensive guns with non-firearms products.
Many will work and sometimes very well, but sometimes they do serious damage.
I just prefer using products developed expressly for use in firearms.
For years I struggled to get the carbon out of my AK-74 gas block and the muzzle brake with limited success, even though the block and inside the brake are hard chrome lined.
First I bought Slip 2000 Carbon Killer.
Even with soaking several times for an hour or more the insides were still black.
Then I tried packing the insides with paper towel and soaked the towel with Hoppe's #9.
The towel would turn bright blue from the copper left by the copper plated steel bullets, but no matter how many times I packed and soaked the inside was still black.
Even trying to help it along with a Lead-Away cloth still left the insides black.
Then I bought a new rifle and thought I'd try something faster for copper then Hoppe's #9.
I bought a bottle of Shooter's Choice Extra Strength Copper Remover.
It worked great in the new rifle barrel so just as a test I packed the gas block and muzzle brake with paper towel and soaked it.
I was very surprised that after a short soak the insides were down to the hard chrome with most all of the carbon fouling removed.
The smell is a very strong ammonia smell so keep your nose away.
My buddy recently told me that he'd tried a new copper remover that has almost no smell and works even better then the Sweet's 7.62 and Shooter's Choice he's been using for years.
I "think" it was Bore Tech brand.
It’s an acid. It’s incompatible with some metals...read the msds.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61Dkhh0JXRL.pdf
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61Dkhh0JXRL.pdf
krimmie
Tanks for the spec sheet , I'm sure most of the cleaning products are in the same ball park . It's good to know what your cleaning with , thanks again . CLR was first used on muzzle brakes, From snipershide forum. , You can find articles on line back to 2013 cleaning hard carbon in brakes ,works like magic . I bought a container today to try . My rifle is clean , I'll run a patch through the barrel to see if any left over carbon comes out , I give my rifle a good cleaning every time , I will be surprised if I see carbon I wouldn't let CLR soak until I test how well it works , follow up with dry patcking it out then a soak with old faithful #9 and dry patch everything out again . Will let you know how it goes .
Chris
Tanks for the spec sheet , I'm sure most of the cleaning products are in the same ball park . It's good to know what your cleaning with , thanks again . CLR was first used on muzzle brakes, From snipershide forum. , You can find articles on line back to 2013 cleaning hard carbon in brakes ,works like magic . I bought a container today to try . My rifle is clean , I'll run a patch through the barrel to see if any left over carbon comes out , I give my rifle a good cleaning every time , I will be surprised if I see carbon I wouldn't let CLR soak until I test how well it works , follow up with dry patcking it out then a soak with old faithful #9 and dry patch everything out again . Will let you know how it goes .
Chris
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Cleaned my clean barrel with CLR . First I must tell you I have a Stainless Steel Rock Creek M24 5R match barrel that I clean very well after every range trip . It shoots tight groups for me 10 shot averaging 1/2" groups at 200 yards . I find a clean barrel works better for me .
Ran a patch with CLR up an down a few times in the barrel , the patch came out saturated with carbon , dry patch then another with CLR patch came out clean . Dry patched to remove any CLR , then old faithful #9 then patched that out . The real test now is how will it shoot . Will let you know , Sunday is my range day .
Chris
Ran a patch with CLR up an down a few times in the barrel , the patch came out saturated with carbon , dry patch then another with CLR patch came out clean . Dry patched to remove any CLR , then old faithful #9 then patched that out . The real test now is how will it shoot . Will let you know , Sunday is my range day .
Chris
Ran a patch with CLR up an down a few times in the barrel , the patch came out saturated with carbon , dry patch then another with CLR patch came out clean .
Interesting... let us know how it goes.
For those who don't want to click on the link, here is the applicable section:
Restrictions on Use: Incompatible with strong oxidizing agents, metals (except stainless steel, chrome), acids, bases, and bleach.
Looks like it might not be a problem in a stainless steel barrel, but probably a bad choice for anything else. In addition, since it is a rust remover, it is likely that it will damage blued/oxide finishes.Even though you may get away with using cleaners/solvents not designed for the task, I feel that I am not taking the risk of damaging the bore of a firearm.
If you want to take the time to read this article, you will be much more informed for it.
As stated in the article, I will reiterate that you don't know if your bore is really clean without the use of a bore scope.
http://www.slip2000.com/blog/precision-shooting-magazine/
If you want to take the time to read this article, you will be much more informed for it.
As stated in the article, I will reiterate that you don't know if your bore is really clean without the use of a bore scope.
http://www.slip2000.com/blog/precision-shooting-magazine/
Dufus
Great read , Thank You . Would love to have a Hawkeye bore scope . Only way to see what's going on inside the barrel . Im pretty careful when trying new chemicals . Without a scope it's the patch and what I've seen an read its the scope is the way to go . For casual shooters clean patches are fine , I'ma a guy that loves every aspect of shooting . A Hawkeye Bore Scope is next on my wish list . What's the saying , do it the right way or don't do it at all . Thanks Again .
Chris
Great read , Thank You . Would love to have a Hawkeye bore scope . Only way to see what's going on inside the barrel . Im pretty careful when trying new chemicals . Without a scope it's the patch and what I've seen an read its the scope is the way to go . For casual shooters clean patches are fine , I'ma a guy that loves every aspect of shooting . A Hawkeye Bore Scope is next on my wish list . What's the saying , do it the right way or don't do it at all . Thanks Again .
Chris
You don't need a Hawkeye unless you just have to have it.
I have used the Lyman bore scope and it takes really good shots inside the bore.
The Hawkeye is the cadillac. I don't have a volkswagen budget, but I ain't paying $100 for something that a $50 doohickey will do almost as well.
Too bad someone close to you doesn't have one you could look at before you made the plunge. Ask around at your gun club, you might be surprised.
I bought a M1893 Marlin maybe 15 years ago. I wouldn't shoot it because there was too much crap in the barrel. That 110 year old rifle got the scrubbing of it life as it looked like it may have been cleaned once in those 100 or so years.
Once I got a bore scope slid in the barrel, I could tell exactly what I was looking at. The bore was clean top to bottom except one tiny spot. It looked like a rock in the barrel. It was carbon. I was able to measure the spot by using the ruler that is built into the bore scope, concentrate on that small area, and get it cleaned to my satisfaction. Thank the Man up stairs For Bore Tech C4 plus the advice of the tech guys at Bore Tech.
The old gun shoots like a dream now.
I have used the Lyman bore scope and it takes really good shots inside the bore.
The Hawkeye is the cadillac. I don't have a volkswagen budget, but I ain't paying $100 for something that a $50 doohickey will do almost as well.
Too bad someone close to you doesn't have one you could look at before you made the plunge. Ask around at your gun club, you might be surprised.
I bought a M1893 Marlin maybe 15 years ago. I wouldn't shoot it because there was too much crap in the barrel. That 110 year old rifle got the scrubbing of it life as it looked like it may have been cleaned once in those 100 or so years.
Once I got a bore scope slid in the barrel, I could tell exactly what I was looking at. The bore was clean top to bottom except one tiny spot. It looked like a rock in the barrel. It was carbon. I was able to measure the spot by using the ruler that is built into the bore scope, concentrate on that small area, and get it cleaned to my satisfaction. Thank the Man up stairs For Bore Tech C4 plus the advice of the tech guys at Bore Tech.
The old gun shoots like a dream now.
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Dufus
Don't know much on bore scopes , not many people here are into shooting . Except for my Sunday range day friends . Most of the talking and good information is on the forums . I will go with a Lyman Boer scope , will do some reading for sure now on Lyman & Bore Tech C4 . Wonder where they came up with that name C4 as a carbon cleaner . Looks like another cleaner on the shelf . Thanks again .
Chris
Don't know much on bore scopes , not many people here are into shooting . Except for my Sunday range day friends . Most of the talking and good information is on the forums . I will go with a Lyman Boer scope , will do some reading for sure now on Lyman & Bore Tech C4 . Wonder where they came up with that name C4 as a carbon cleaner . Looks like another cleaner on the shelf . Thanks again .
Chris
insman1132
New member
I would bet you will be happier in the long run by using only approved Gun Cleaning products.
Don't get me wrong...I like my guns clean. But I just don't see the need to be too obsessive about it. I doubt that any means of getting your bore more clean is going to improve on 1/2" groups at 200 yards...but I could be wrong.
It's often said that the enemy of "good" is "better." So, in striving for "better", take care not to get too far into the high weeds where you might get bitten.
It's often said that the enemy of "good" is "better." So, in striving for "better", take care not to get too far into the high weeds where you might get bitten.