Using .177 BBs rather than SS pins - has it been tried yet?

J

Jeffm004

New member
I have found a case or two with a pin stuck and broke a depriming pin on a SS pin (.308). As I move toward .223 I think finding them will get sporty-er. I found about 3 lbs. of BB gun BBs on the shelf and I'm thinking about trying them unless there is something I don't know that would make this a bad idea.

I do like the magnet for lost pins. I'll miss that.

An example of a bad idea I want to avoid is putting a nickle plated gun in an ultrasonic cleaner (it separates the nickle from the under coat of copper) - Bad idea.


tx
 
The 223 cases are so small I'm tempted to not use my media when cleaning. For my 9, 38, and 357 cleaning pins are great and easy to see / wash out of a case... 223's will be difficult to clean out.

Not sure if the bb's will add any cleaning value. If you already have them available I'd give 'em a whirl.
 
The bb's are usually just copper coated steel, so a magnet should still pick them up. Not sure about cleaning ability.

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Due to the diameter of the BB, you won't get the cleaning action of smaller diameter "pins" plus you stand the chance of completely choking cases with bb's that you can't remove.
 
This has been tried. I think it was reported on this forum, so try the search engine. IIRC, primer pockets were no longer cleaned because the round shot can't get down into the inside corners. I don't recall what happened to the rest of the case.
 
Couple things. First, make sure you aren't using the .041" diameter ss pins, as those will get stuck side by side in flash holes once in a while. The .047" pins work perfectly. Then, to remove the pins, a Dillon separator works great. I also tried some new really small ss media recently, supposedly much faster cleaning, etc., but found it to be so light that it was a bit tedious to get out of all the cases. A company called Sleeping Giant Brass is pushing the small media.
 
Dillon separator

Zplinker is correct concerning the Dillon separator. Since I began using it only one stainless steel pin has been stuck in a .223 case among several hundred.

Steps: decap with a virtually indestructible Lee decapping die; 1-hour tumble with ss pins, water, a bit of dish detergent, a dash of Lemi Shine; dump the dirty liquid; pins and cases go into the separator cage for a few slow spins until no pins fall from the cage; rinse cases and pins separately; dump components into plastic trays and dry in the Louisiana sunshine; place cases base down and shine a cheap non-tactical led light into each case to ensure no pins remain.

Decapping prior to tumbling clears the primer pocket for cleaning. It is a worthwhile extra step. Joyfully clean cases is the result.
 
"Steps: decap with a virtually indestructible Lee decapping die; 1-hour tumble with ss pins, water, a bit of dish detergent, a dash of Lemi Shine;; dump the dirty liquid; pins and cases go into the separator cage for a few slow spins until no pins fall from the cage; rinse cases and pins separately; dump components into plastic trays and dry in the Louisiana sunshine; place cases base down and shine a cheap non-tactical led light into each case to ensure no pins remain."

Geez, I thought using SS pins was supposed to be quicker and easier. With all that hoopdie-doo, I'll just keep using walnut shells.
 
Well said Mobuck, and all you get out of that effort, is an obsessively cleaned case that contributes nothing to better accuracy nor function. Rod but YMMV
 
The BBs worked fine but I didn't check internal to the case. A magnet did pick them up. Idried them with the brass as I'd expect them to rust. Prior to this the oxidation had made the BBs not work well in a BB gun. Post tumble I think they can be returned to the original purpose. Coper coated, the copper coating remained.
 
What happened to your primer pockets and flash holes? Did you confirm the past report that primer residue was left in the pockets? Give us a photo if you can.

I would not have expected a corrosion problem, as citric acid is used to remove rust, though it does etch the steel over time, depending on the concentration. It's pretty easy on copper.
 
Go crazy with the Lemi-shine and you will get green water and rose colored cases.
Go crazy with detergent and you will do a lot of flushing.

I do between 2,500 & 5,000 (5.56mm) in a poly tub cement mixer,
(mixer is about the same price as a better quality 'Wet Tumbler')

I actually tumble mine twice, once for cursory cleaning for processing,
This allows me to process brass in volume without wear & tear from dirty brass on the equipment.
During processing the primer is removed, that leaves residue in the primer pocket, and there is case lube to deal with...

The second run is cleaning of processes brass, and I use chips & pins mixed, and I throw some fine 'Scotch Bright' sheets in with the brass for this,
MUCH less detergent and I let them run until polished bright & shiny.
They look new when they come out.

Surprisingly the 'Scotch Bright' sheets are reusable, along with the pins & chips.
Used 'Scotch Brite' pads make for higher polish on the brass.

This is entirely dependent on the amount of cleaning/polish you want on the brass, basic cleaning on the OUTSIDE of the case happens in 30-40 minutes,
No surface scratches removed, inside of the case doesn't get bright & shiny,
Cases get plenty clean for reloading if you are loading common ammo.

*IF* You want cases that look brand new, or as close to brand new as possible, then process the cases, clean and polish off lube, which takes about an extra hour or so.
Simply use a timer on the tumbler once you figure out how long it takes to produce a polish.
 
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