Used Python

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cnemeth

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The range I belong to has a used stainless steel Colt Python with a 6" barrel and wood grips for $650. The only defect that I can see is a small scratch (about 1/2") along the side of the barrel. Would this be a good deal? What else should I look at in checking out used guns?

Also, they have a used (but with very few rounds through it) S&W 586 blued with a 4" barrel and wood grips for $350. Is this a good deal? They have a new 586 for $450.

Right know I can only buy from the range that I'm a member of while my NYC permit is being processed.

Thanks
Christopher Nemeth
 
I think the $650 is high for a python. More like $500.

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Remember: When you attempt to rationalize two inconsistent positions, you risk drowning as your own sewage backs up... Yankee Doodle
 
I agree, You do see used Python quite often and since a new one sells for about $650, $500 is more likely the going rate. I sold mime in bright stainless for $500.
 
Greetings; If it were me; I think I would
buy the used Smith & Wesson 586 for $350.00.
Seems like a better deal; unless of course
you opted for say a 6" tube; if one wasn't
available, then you probably would have to
purchase a new one.

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Ala Dan
 
Thanks for the info so far, I'm seriously thinking about the 586 for $350. The Python is a beautiful gun, but for that extra $300 I could almost get another good gun.

What should I look for when examining used guns to determine how good they are?
 
When buying a user revolver, which I must say I have never done myself (but I have been around family members/friends who have), and from the anecdotal stories I was told, the first thing to check is the gap between forcing cone and cylinder.

A playing card inserted in the gap should be held, or better yet, the cylinder won't close with it "in the way".

Next, cock the back the hammer and without squeezing the trigger, try to force the hammer down, back into position. It shouldn't go unless you break something with your fantastic strength....but by then you're in trouble (I've always thought if you break it, you've bought it).

Then, well, try and get a look at the internals and if you know what you are doing (which I am not too certain about myself), look for wear.

Lastly, check out the obvious: cosmetic look, barrel rifling, muzzle markings, etc.

Good luck,

Duncan

PS

$650 for a used Python? It seems high to me.
 
Here is another tip, due to Colt's recent low quality, I actually bought a new Python that had a defective cylinder latch that would bind the cartidges when the bbl is tilted upward 45 degrees. So check it out as well. The gun went back to the warranty center but I was very disappointed with Colt's lack of QA. Especially on the Python.
 
Both are pretty high on price, but that may be normal for the area. I personally prefer S&Ws and would go for the 586, even though it is a "run of mill" gun while the Python is supposed to be a special product (hand fitted and all that).

Jim
 
I was at a local gunshow last weekend, and came across a used Python for $450. I also saw one recently NEW for $600. Cosmetically the used one looked OK, I didn't inspect it for wear, etc.., Wouldn't have known what to look fer anyway, but now I do: Thanks Dennis! ;)

I feel sorry for you, cnemeth, livin' in The Sheeple's Republic of New York. Come out West, it's pertier out here. ;)
 
At our local gun show today.. Several Pythons on sale.. most of them in the 450-550 range. Made me feel REAL good about the 6" stainless I picked up at a pawn shop for $375 in Jan of this year. ;)

(edited for the date)


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Bubba
IDPA# A04739
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It is long been a principal of ours that one is no more armed because he has possession of a firearm than he is a musician because he owns a piano. There is no point in having a gun if you are not capable of using it skillfully. - Jeff Cooper



[This message has been edited by Bubba (edited September 20, 1999).]
 
Hey Christopher, I have a box of Remington 125 GR. JHP, the top of the line load. I sold my S&W 686 last year and have this box laying around. Let me know if you want to buy it real cheap.
I live in CT. but work in the City.
 
Bubba did great at buying his Python for $375 (when is the key). I bought my Python used ($325 in 1986) and have been very happy with them. It needed a new hammer (the previous owner bobbed it) which I fitted myself.

The best prices for used I've seen was about $450 in 1996 at the Kittery Trading Post in Kittery, Maine. They had quite a few of them at that price.

By the way, there's a world of difference between the Python and the S&W. A S&W can be tuned, but the trigger of the Python is still hard to beat (thanks to the old fashion sear). The interior metals of the Python are more durable (4140 steel) compared to the MIM (metal injection molded) of S&W. Not to knock S&W (I like them too) and the 586 is a great value for the money, but the Python remains in a class by itself. If anyone hasn't read the Trooper Timing tread in our Smithy Forum, do so. You'll learn about the mysterious lockwork of the Python and the early Troopers. Enough rambling...

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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt
 
Here it is, the saga of the Python "Elite" (HA HA HA!) I bought nearly a year ago as a B-day present for myself.



2 days after purchase, the gun is on its way back to Hartford, because a) the ejector rod has frozen in place, b) the cylinder has a deep nick in the breech side edge. Trigger sucks in DA.



Many months later, I get it back, only to discover that the cylinder is still nicked, the grip is cracked, there are burrs aound the firng pin hole such that it is sticking forward after firing. Off it goes, again.



I get it back in around the same long time, this time with a new cylinder and a rear sight that sits crooked on the gun.



This time I take it to the Morons at Simmons Gun Specialties in Olathe, KS, where I get a good trigger job and stupidity at the same time. I met the gunsmith before I brought in my gun, Geoff Gardiski (sp?) and mention that I just got my gun at my mail drop in KC and need to pick it up. I also mention that the cylinder was nicked and Colt did nothing the last time I sent it, could he radius the back edge? Sure. I bring the gun in a few days later, with written instructions about what I want, including the fact that the cylinder is new and needs no work. Guess what? The dumb SOB radiuses the edge anyway, but makes it uneven. I ask for a new cylinder, in lieu of a full refund, because I figure the work he did was worth something and he just needs to make it right. For this, I get a spiel on how good he is and how no one has ever held his work to such a standard and that he will never work for me again.



After six months, I get a new cylinder from Colt, via these jerks. It has a small nick just outside one chamber, barrel side, I take it to Mike Allee, who is good at finishing guns, but not much else, even according to his old employer, the 2nd Amendment, in Overland Park (massive jerks in their own right). He assures me it is fine and won't affect accuracy, so I have him fit it. I shot the gun after he gave it back and index the chambers. The nicked cylinder produces noticable (6" from other chambers point of impact, bench rested).



Back to Colt for a new cylinder. This time, I also ask that the .008 gap be closed, which I think should be a factor of fitting the cylinder and ratchet, both fore and aft. I get the gun back after a month (pretty good for Colt) with a new almost perfect cylinder that locks up bank vault solid.



However, I scratch the topstrap a little when I try to adjust the rear sight elevation because it is jammed from not being installed properly. So I take it off and put it on right (all this from someone who doesn't make a living working on guns). Also, the barrel is on crooked, enough so that I notice the rear sight leaf has been drifted right. Seems some S--- for brains figures that the best way to close the BC gap is to torque the barrel.



So, once again, for the fourth time in less than a year, my gun is at Colt, where more than half the reasons I return it originate and fixing one problem leads to several others.



I have mentioned the names of KC area gunsmiths for those around here, so that they can get an idea of what to expect when they need a gun fixed. I can give a sometimes recommendation to Clayco Gun becuase of their ability as machinists and that they have access to the TWA overhaul base and all the welding and maching expertise that entails. I have met with but not used a guy named Arnold Roberts (AJ Gunsmithing) who gave me some good advice on this Python, but turned down the opportunity to perform work for a problem the factory created and should have to deal with. So, he appears to know his business and be honest.



Anyone from KC care to share good gunsmiths, or bad ones?
 
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