used gun values

T

tool99

Inactive
Hi everyone. I am not new to shooting but I am looking to make a purchase on my first handgun. I am thinking about purchasing a "like new" cheetah, and am unsure what the re-sale value would be. My question is, how do you go about finding the average "used" value on a gun. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Tool
 
Go to gunbroker.com and use the advanced search for completed listings on the gun you are interested in.
 
My Daddy always said, "The value of anything is what someone who doesn't want to sell charges vs what someone who doesn't want to buy pays."

The "going" price for a certain gun may be $200. If someone REALLY wants that gun, he might pay $400.

Someone may sell a gun for $200. He might stick to that price, not really caring if it sells or not. If he REALLY wants to get rid of it, he might drop the price to $100.

See what I mean? If I'm looking for a gun, I do a little "going price" researching, then decide how much I'm willing to pay. That may be more or less than the GP, depending on how badly I want it.

I know this doesn't really answer your question, but the US is still an open market, so prices and values will vary.

I've only sold, outright, two guns - so resale value really isn't my concern when buying one. I tend to pick my guns very carefully, then keep them for life, unless they break or wear out.

Good luck.
 
It's a VERY difficult game. The easy answer is, "Go get the Blue Book of Gun Values" by S.P. Fjestad.

The real answer is that there's a bunch of different ways you can put a number on a used firearm.

--there's the replacement "value" that you might want to be reimbursed from insurance if you owned it and it were stolen or destroyed, and this would be much different for a current production piece as opposed to a firearm that's no longer made

--there's the trade in value, or what you might get for it if you took it to a gun store, and this number would be LOW

--there's the retail/resale price, which is what most gun stores might sell it for in their display case

--there's the private sale price, which would fall somewhere in between those two previous numbers

And none of these values can be dead set hard & fast because condition and local demand/availability will certainly play a part.

If you are looking to buy, then click up a place like Gunbroker.com and see what's available. But understand with those prices that you need to pay shipping and also pay a fee to the receiving FFL, so those prices you see on Gunbroker (or other online auction sites or used sellers) will most likely be lower than you'll find in a local gun store.

I would think that if you found some recent ended auctions with the piece you seek, add maybe 20% and use that as a price point to find in a local store.

It really is a game.
 
So many factors....

Where you are.. condition of the gun.... Its cult status etc.....

A decent rule of thumb is to use the blue book of guns and look to pay in the 80% condition range for guns that are 95%+. If you use that formula you are doing well IMHO.
 
A rule of thumb for me since the 1970's:

A brand new (but readily in supply) firearm loses ~15% of its out-the-door price when you walk out the door.

After that, an otherwise mechanically perfect, but fired weapon, with a little honest fair wear (maybe a little finish wear on holster contact surfaces such as muzzle, cylinder, or sights) might bring 70-80% of full retail value.

Example: Glock 19 retails out the door for $600 today (base price, taxes, and background check). Tomorrow (unfired) it's worth ~$500-$525 in a face to face sale. After a year of occasional range use and a bit of concealed carry...it's worth ~ $420 in that same private sale or trade scenario.

Naturally, laws of supply and demand apply for harder to find and more desirable specimens. You could ask for (and get) whatever you have invested in a Colt Python .357 or Smith & Wesson M58 .41 magnum (unless you overpaid to begin with).

I look for and buy a lot of nice used handguns in the $300-$500 bandwidth. This price range includes a lot of Colt, Smith, Dan Wesson, and Ruger revolvers. It also includes most pocket, compact, and duty sized semi-autos (BHPs, S&W, Colts, Glocks, CZs, etc.).

Some brands are pretty high priced at retail price point to begin with. HKs come to mind. Not so common and folks are loath to part with them for a lot less than they paid (unless they are in dire financial straits).

Some brands and makes are so plentiful on the used gun market (e.g., shot guns like the Mossberg 500 & Remington 870), that they can invariably be found used for about 40% off retail price with a little searching. A common $300 package shotgun (readily available at WalMart) becomes a $175-$200 shotgun in a private trade or sale.

Just because someone payed $1200 dollars a few years ago for a higher end Kimber 1911 does not mean that the weapon still holds said value. $850 might be more like it.

The presence or absence of all original factory accessories (original grips, box/case, manual, cleaning tools, magazines) or the inclusion of useful owner accessories (quality holster, better grips, extra mags, speed loaders, or ammunition) is important. These accessories will justify a slight increase in the asking price (or can be used to sweeten the pot on a trade). Take off about 35-40% of the aggregate value of all additional accessories or ammunition. Nine times out of ten, the seller has little use for the extra weapon specific grips, holster, or ammo after he/she sells the firearm. Add that value into the amount you are prepared to pay for just the weapon.

For instance: Seller has a nice used Glock 19 (with factory box and accessories) that he wants $450 for (a little high in my mind...I'm thinking more like $350-400). He'll also include two boxes of ammo (1 x 50 rd box of FMJ practice ammo and 1 x box of premium hollowpoints = about $50 retail worth of ammo). He also has a $80 dollar leather holster from a name company (showing very little use). He also has 2 x extra used factory magazines (worth about $40 total). $50 + $80 + $40 = $170 retail value for these items. Subtract 40% of $170 ($68). $170 minus $68 = the extra items are worth about $100 dollars to me.

He wants $450 for everything. I want to pay $350 (if I can). The extras are worth an additional $100. It's a fair deal (unless I can talk him down a bit more). I'll offer $400 and show cash. Don't be afraid to haggle.

If a seller wants $20 less than full new retail for his used weapon plus he adds in the price of all the additional accessories he invested in...walk away.

Or just give him your cash offer. Some folks start off with a high asking price in the hopes that an uninformed someone will pay. They always have a mental price floor that is much lower. Cash talks. Haggle. It's fun and doesn't have to be insulting for either party.

For an otherwise perfect used weapon: Without the factory original grips, magazines, box/case, owners manual, and factory accessories, I'll drop about 20% off the value I'm prepared to offer.

Hope this helps...

EDIT: You didn't specify which model of Beretta you were looking at (either the .380 ACP or .22 Long Rifle flavors of the Cheetah). In any event, $425-$500 is a reasonable price range for a used example in excellent shape.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top