You can buy a cheap Chinese made unit from Harbor Freight to decide if you like it. If/when it burns out you can either buy another of buy a better brand.
The better brands are expensive, but you get what you pay for.
Amazon sell a lot of US cleaners including the top of the line types.
If you like US cleaning, buy as good a model as you can afford.
Here's some info from an old post, updated.....
The good points:
They really clean. US gets into even the tiniest hole or crevice and makes the parts surgically clean.
They usually clean FAST. Drop a dirty part in, and the dirt actually BOILS off in a cloud. Some fouling may take longer.
They DEEP clean, getting crud you normally don't even see and gets into areas that normally you can't get to with other methods.
They're especially good on harder fouling. (Ultrasonics work better on hard dirt).
You don't have to disassembly things. Ultrasonics are used by watchmakers to avoid having to disassembly some small components.
Firearms parts are huge by comparison.
They work with a variety of solutions. Water with detergent works on many types of dirt, so you often don't HAVE to use a volatile solvent.
You can buy various cleaning solutions based on what you're cleaning these days now that reloading companies are selling US cleaners and various solutions.
The solution is heated up by the ultrasonic action. Warm solution cleans even better. Many tanks have a built-in heater also.
Let the unit run a few minutes to drive out air and allow the solution to start heating. You can also pre-heat the solution by putting the container in hot water.
You can put an inch of water in the bottom and use small glass or plastic cups to hold solvent and small parts.
The ultrasonic waves are transmitted by the water in the bottom through the beakers or jars.
This allows using even highly flammable solvents in small amounts.
You can use the tank for MANY cleaning jobs, Paint brushes, dirty watch bands, electric razor heads, eyeglasses, you're wife's jewelry, car parts, ANYTHING that you can fit into the tanks and won't be harmed by the solution or US waves will clean up surgically clean.
The bad:
KEEP YOUR FINGERS OUT OF THE TANK.
Ultrasonics and bone marrow don't play well together.
This isn't something that happens instantly, it's over time.
Ultrasonics don't work on copper fouling and not well on leading, so you still need to use standard brushes, patches, and bore solvent to clean bores and chambers.
Expense. The larger tanks are COSTLY. However, if you want to clean a stripped pistol or small parts, one of the smaller $150.00 range tanks will work fine.
You CAN put a portion of a frame or slide in the tank at a time.
After cleaning it, turn it over and clean the other half.
Any solvent that will attack plastic or gun finishes, will attack it FASTER in ultrasonics.
As example the strong soap cleaners like the original Simply Green will literally EAT aluminum and the anodized coating and will do so faster in a US cleaner.
You've got to be careful to apply a THOROUGH coat of anti-rust lube after cleaning. Ultrasonics remove ALL grease and lube, leaving the part absolutely bare, including in tiny holes and crevices that ordinarily cleaning never touches.
They don't work quite as well on soft gummy grease as harder dirt. You can speed things up by pulling parts out and scrubbing with a brush.
They're electronic and heat the solvent. You have to be careful with flammables.
Advice:
If possible buy a basket that holds parts off the bottom or make up wire hangers. Ultrasonics work better when the parts are suspended in the solution instead of laying on the bottom of the tank.
A tank cover is nice to hold down fumes.
Some larger tanks have a built in drain. BE CAREFUL. Some solvents may attack these and you can wind up with a floor covered in hot solvent.
This is one reason never to walk away and leave a US cleaner unattended.
NEVER run the unit when the tank is dry even for a few seconds, it'll burn out.
Be careful what cleaning solution you use. You can pull the item out and find finish or plastic parts GONE.
Be careful with Tritium sights, and sights with any kind of inserts or dots. Many can be damaged or removed in the tank.
Painted sight or safety marking will eventually be removed by even water, and a many solvents will remove the paint almost instantly.
The small tanks sold in discount stores for cleaning false teeth and jewelry really don't work too well, and most of them aren't even real ultrasonic units.
One gun cleaner solution that works well is Cylinder & Slide Shop's "Dunk-It".
This is a cleaning solvent mixed with a lubricant.
The intent is to soak the gun in the bucket, but it can be used in a US cleaner. This cleans the gun and leaves a lubricant in all areas to prevent rust and lubricate. However, I'd still use a dedicated lubricant in key areas.
The down side is the cost.
Ordinary cheap paint thinner works well as does kerosene, but NEVER walk away from it because these are flammable.
Running a gun in a rinse is pretty much a waste of time.
If you use a water based cleaner you can rinse the gun by holding it under a faucet running hot water, or swishing it in a sink of hot water.
The heat will allow the metal to dry fast.
With solvents, rinsing is usually not needed unless the solvent is really dirty.
Then dipping it in clean solvent is enough.
To dry parts use a hair dryer....NOTE: Hair dryer, NOT oven, torch, or heat gun. Shake the parts off or blow off with compressed air to remove the excess and prevent a fire with solvents before using the hair dryer.
You MUST get a rust preventing coat of lube into all areas to prevent rusting.
Most liquid lubes like CLP Breakfree will creep and spread into most areas.
You can also use a fine spray like Rem-Oil.
I've used CLP with a cheap air brush to get lube into tight areas, BUT... don't breath the fumes, you won't like it.