Well, leaving out such exotica as Korth or a Moran Python, I would start with a blue pre deal, pre MIM, pre floating firing pin S&W M19 or 586, depending on whether you prefer light or heavy guns. I think blue guns smooth up better than stainless.
There is not as much to do to a revolver as there is a deluxe 1911, all you really need is what Charles Askins called a "go to hell trigger job." Acually an overall action job. The DA should be as smooth as mechanically possible and as light as will pop the primer and return the trigger as fast as your finger moves. Yes, I know Jerry Miculek and Ed McGivern set records with stock springs, but us commoners need all the help we can get. All mechanical fits and alignments should be right on. The chamber mouths should be chamfered for easier loading, the chambers should be polished for easy extraction. A good revolver smith will have all this as a package deal, no rocket science to him. I do not have a man to recommend, unfortunately.
Trigger style is up to you. I am with Jerry and prefer a narrow serrated trigger, but smooth triggers are more popular with most DA shooters. Do NOT have the hammer spur bobbed, even if you get a DAO action job. It helps as part of "Make Ready" to draw the hammer back just far enough to drop the cylinder stop and roll the cylinder to be sure it turns freely.
Sights are another personal choice. Weigand makes a ramp with interchangeable blades of different heights and styles, if you want something unusual.
Grips are a big item for revolvers, there are many more styles than for autos. You will probably end up with a grip box full of rejects next to your holster box. I like the Clark-Miculek style (made for them by Hogue) or the regular Hogue (wooden) with no or one finger groove.
I have used Safariland Comp II, Comp III, and SL Variant speedloaders. The Comp III is quick but bulky, the SL is quick but expensive. I see the original Jet Loader is back on the market but have not tried one. Pick one and get several alike. I have seen some confused shooters with mixed speedloaders. Speed in reloading comes from skill and practice, I can't see one .38 as faster than another.
As good a holster as for your 1911 and 3 speedloader carriers and you are ready to shoot the first stage.
For the second stage, get a chamber brush and a toothbrush (to clean out from under the extractor star.) I try to dry-brush clean at least every other stage. Powder flakes or other dirt under the extractor will tie a revolver up badly.
Ammo has to make 125 power factor. This is not easy for a jacketed bullet in .38 Special. I think you would be right up to +P+ to do it. A good cast bullet or moly coated (Precision in Texas is one maker) will get out the barrel faster. I usually load a 158 grain cast and the top standard P load of W231. I shift to coated lead for indoors and/or low light. A cleaner powder would help. A friend of mine loads Titegroup with good shooting. Avoid anything that leaves unburnt powder behind, you can get enough under the extractor to stop you in one reload.
Price? I don't know. Good clean police tradein .38/.357s are available very reasonably. Get some revolversmith literature.
Me? I shoot a Jungkind Python, but I know I was being extravagant, guns and gunsmithing are less expensive for S&W. I have read of fine Rugers but have not seen one. I haven't shot a Korth, but my Manhurin (Vienna PD surplus from AIM) is no better than a good American revolver.
