ultimate IDPA revolver

mr. pitiful

New member
I shoot a 1911 now, but am considering shooting in revolver class as well. I want to shoot 38 special loads, so lets keep it to 38-357 calibers. I want a four inch barrel. and it must be quick to reload. I would appreciate some suggestions for the gun and maybe some for modifications and smiths. What would be the ULTIMATE IDPA revolver? and what should I expect to pay.
Thank You.

Mr. Pitiful
 
Well, leaving out such exotica as Korth or a Moran Python, I would start with a blue pre deal, pre MIM, pre floating firing pin S&W M19 or 586, depending on whether you prefer light or heavy guns. I think blue guns smooth up better than stainless.

There is not as much to do to a revolver as there is a deluxe 1911, all you really need is what Charles Askins called a "go to hell trigger job." Acually an overall action job. The DA should be as smooth as mechanically possible and as light as will pop the primer and return the trigger as fast as your finger moves. Yes, I know Jerry Miculek and Ed McGivern set records with stock springs, but us commoners need all the help we can get. All mechanical fits and alignments should be right on. The chamber mouths should be chamfered for easier loading, the chambers should be polished for easy extraction. A good revolver smith will have all this as a package deal, no rocket science to him. I do not have a man to recommend, unfortunately.

Trigger style is up to you. I am with Jerry and prefer a narrow serrated trigger, but smooth triggers are more popular with most DA shooters. Do NOT have the hammer spur bobbed, even if you get a DAO action job. It helps as part of "Make Ready" to draw the hammer back just far enough to drop the cylinder stop and roll the cylinder to be sure it turns freely.

Sights are another personal choice. Weigand makes a ramp with interchangeable blades of different heights and styles, if you want something unusual.

Grips are a big item for revolvers, there are many more styles than for autos. You will probably end up with a grip box full of rejects next to your holster box. I like the Clark-Miculek style (made for them by Hogue) or the regular Hogue (wooden) with no or one finger groove.

I have used Safariland Comp II, Comp III, and SL Variant speedloaders. The Comp III is quick but bulky, the SL is quick but expensive. I see the original Jet Loader is back on the market but have not tried one. Pick one and get several alike. I have seen some confused shooters with mixed speedloaders. Speed in reloading comes from skill and practice, I can't see one .38 as faster than another.

As good a holster as for your 1911 and 3 speedloader carriers and you are ready to shoot the first stage.

For the second stage, get a chamber brush and a toothbrush (to clean out from under the extractor star.) I try to dry-brush clean at least every other stage. Powder flakes or other dirt under the extractor will tie a revolver up badly.

Ammo has to make 125 power factor. This is not easy for a jacketed bullet in .38 Special. I think you would be right up to +P+ to do it. A good cast bullet or moly coated (Precision in Texas is one maker) will get out the barrel faster. I usually load a 158 grain cast and the top standard P load of W231. I shift to coated lead for indoors and/or low light. A cleaner powder would help. A friend of mine loads Titegroup with good shooting. Avoid anything that leaves unburnt powder behind, you can get enough under the extractor to stop you in one reload.

Price? I don't know. Good clean police tradein .38/.357s are available very reasonably. Get some revolversmith literature.

Me? I shoot a Jungkind Python, but I know I was being extravagant, guns and gunsmithing are less expensive for S&W. I have read of fine Rugers but have not seen one. I haven't shot a Korth, but my Manhurin (Vienna PD surplus from AIM) is no better than a good American revolver.
 
I'm with Jim Watson. 4" 19 or 586.

No problem makin power with cast 125gr SWCs in .38 special.

Easy to get into it well with a 300 buck gun and some TLC on it.

Sam
 
I know that you said .38, but you shouldn't overlook the S&W 625 with the 4" barrel for IDPA competition. You'll have an obvious advantage with moonclip reloading and parity with ammunition sharing with your 1911.
 
I just got a 4" S&W mod 65 fixed sight and a square butt for possible IDPA use. It has fixed sights that hit point of aim and is fairly rugged. I need to get some nicer grips, it has Pachmeyer decelerators on it and I would like a nice set of wood one but do not know which ones. I also need to get some good leather, speedloaders and holders.
 
Jim has some great advice, given the limitation to 38/357, and he shoots his traditional wheelgun very well indeed. You did, however, also include the word "ultimate" in your request which leads to a moon clip gun.

The problems with the non-moon clip revos are most often the reloads. Too easy to have one case hang up during the ejection process and something to manipulate (push, turn, etc) during the charge process. Don't get me wrong, if they would allow 38's with moon clips in IDPA I might be shooting a modified 686! The other problem (a little one) is the case length which slows one down just a little but with the number of reloads usually required for a major match it adds up.

So, the ultimate IDPA revo is more than likely a moon clip gun. I went with the S&W 610 since I already shot 40 cal in ESP and had lots of ammo. If I had been able to get the 625 with a 4" barrel I would have probably gone with that since I shoot a 45 in CDP as well. The best thing about the 40 cal in the 610 is the length. The gun is built to eject 10mm so stroking the 40's out is a piece of cake. I am also able to use the exact load I use for ESP since the power factor is the same for both divisions. Chamfer the chambers and tweak the trigger (and change the grips) and you're good to go. It will cost a bit more than the 38 but worth the difference in my opinion.

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Mike
 
Roller Actions

I note mention was made of a Jungkind Python. Has anyone tried the Walt Sherman roller action Python and what do they think? Unlike the Cylinder and Slide kits the single action is retained. I see he also makes the same setup for K, L and N frames. There was a writeup some time back in American Handgunner as I recall on his Python action.

Curious where it fits and whether it is reliable.

Jim T.
 
Don't overlook the S&W Model 15. If you want to limit yourself to a .38, buy a .38. Adjustable sights are a plus as the load you favor may not work out very well in a fixed sight revolver.
 
Might have known you would plug that 610, Mike.

Jim T.

I shot a Sherman Roller Bearing Colt - I think it was a Python but may have been an old model Trooper, OM Match or OP on the same action - many years ago. When the roller rolled it was wonderful. Unfortunately, the roller would bind up and skid every once in a while. That would throw the shot off for sure. I handed it back to the owner.
If, as the magazine writers say, it was an unusual case and did not occur in other guns, it would be a great system.

A friend has one of the C&S roller sets in an M25-2. It dropped in and functioned properly. The DA is better than stock, but not as good as a conventional full house action job. I don't know how good it would be if you went in and refit and polished everything as for a regular action job and then let the roller do its work.

Scarborough is right, a M15 would be fine if you like a lightweight gun. Do get something with adjustable sights. I know one guy struggling with an M13. He shoots small groups, they are just not in the middle of the target. Changing bullet weights as is often recommended does not make enough difference to matter.

A PPC shooter I know uses a heavy barrel M14 for his Distinguished match. It has an underlug barrel like the usual L-frame. They don't make many, and they are all 6". If they would use that profile to make a heavy barrel 4" M15 it would be a nice IDPA SSR. Nicer still if it were a cliploading 9mm or .38 Super.

Check out ICORE, they are doing great work with revolvers and you can probably get some good tips and contacts there.
 
Mike, I LOVE your gun. did it come stock with the hi-viz sights? Before the chamfering and the action job, what does that model run approximately? Also, is that a four inch barrel? This coud very well be my next gun.

Thank You all for the advise so far. I appreciate it.
 
I added the SDM Super Sight. I paid $585 at a gun show, a little steep, but I just had to have it as soon as I saw it. It was one of those things I didn't know I wanted until I held it.

The barrel is 4" - the new IDPA limit.

I also like to use a revolver to deer hunt and the 10mm will do that nicely. There's a lot to like about the 610!

Mike
 
Mine is a lot like Mikey's, but it is the 4" 625 in .45 ACP.

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It has the SDM super sight on the front. It really helps me pick up the front sight.
 
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