Uberti Dragoon clone question

stubbicatt

New member
Was at the LGS yesterday. Actually got to hold a Uberti Dragoon clone. I liked it overall, but passed on this example because the cylinder one could move fore and aft along the axis pin what looked like about 1/10th of an inch. Is this normal? There was some resistance, when pressing back towards the recoil shield, as though maybe the hand or something spring loaded, was offering resistance.

In comparison, the Walker had no such end float.

Thanks in advance.
 
New or used?
Uberti is known for arbor issues, cocked and cylinder pushed back .003 is nice but Colt allows up to .008.
The arbor should bottom in the barrel and the wedge will not change the cylinder gap.
This is one of the things dealt with in a good action job.
 
Hard to say what's going on without seeing it, but a loose wedge could allow the barrel to pull away from the cylinder and if there is any interference between the arbor and barrel the arbor may not easily bottom out. In that case tightening the wedge could close the gap, but that is not how it is supposed to work. Most cap and ball revolvers will benefit from some tuning and fitting that is part of their allure for a lot of folks.
 
Of course I did not disassemble the piece, but the wedge appeared to be fully seated, within ⅛ inch of the screw on the port side of the barrel. I'll keep my eyes peeled for another example and see if it does the same thing. At rest the cylinder appeared to be quite close, maybe .007" from the barrel, but one could readily move it backwards against what felt like spring pressure, towards the recoil shield. I did not cock the piece and test for this end float. Perhaps I'll do that. Perhaps once the bolt is in place in one of the notches of the cylinder, it will not do that anymore.

However, if that does rectify the fore and aft movement, that tells me that the impetus of recoil will be absorbed by the bolt, not the recoil shield, which portents ill for the durability of the piece. Hm...
 
My current '51 Navy is a Uberti - a great one! Fortunately, I've never experienced the "arbor length problem" on any of my Ubertis like some have.

That said . . don't judge all Ubertis by that example you looked at. The reason I say this is because over the years, I've looked at various C & B revolvers in LGS and even Cabelas I have stood back and watched people handling the C & B revolvers, cocking and pulling the trigger on a bare nipple, going to half-cock and then releasing the hammer by pulling the trigger and lowering it with thumb rather than going to full cock before release and lowering and I once even watched a salesman take a regular hammer from under the counter and drive the wedge out. You don't say if the revolver was new or used - but even if new, you don't know what abuse it's had in the shop. The one you talked about, I too would be a little leery of, especially if the barrel wedge wass in tight and it had that large of a cylinder gap - but then, it could be tuned up to take care of that issue.

Years ago, I got a bug to get a 1849 Pocket. I called Cabelas, talked with the guy in the gun department and he said they had one in the display case that was beautiful. I drove the 60 miles to get it - when I got there - yes, it was new . . . but it had been handled so many times, cocked and the trigger pulled that three nipples were peened not to mention the very evident drag line on the cylinder - and the action felt like it had gravel in it. I backed off real quick - never did get one but will some day.

I love my Uberti Navy and recently got a .357 Uberti Bisley - both great pistols and great shooters. I like my Pietta Remington Navy as well. If you have your heart set on the model you're looking at - have you LGS call Uberti to see if they have one in stock - get a price from them and if you can live with it, have them order it. It took me two weeks to get my Bisley. That way, you can inspect a true "new in box" and check it out before accepting it.
 
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