Uberti 1858 Army Pawl?

R

rep1954

New member
I just purchased a Uberti 1858 Army That seems well finished and seemed to opperate okay although the bolt was hitting a little hard in the cylinder lead just before it enters it's notch. When cleaning the shipping oil from the gun I went to remove the cylinder and it was not comming out very easy. I started checking things out and the pawl or hand whatever you choose to call it protrudes beyond it's window when at half cock. I've worked on Colts and Rugers but never any 1858's. Any hints or instructions would be appreciated.
You can push the pawl back and the reinserting the Cylinder becomes simple. Also the cylinder rotates fine when the gun is all together and on half cock.

1858remington.jpg
 
At 1/2 cock, pull the cylinder pin and ROLL the cylinder clockwise while pushing it out the right side of the frame.
 
It's ok.
The hand is supposed to do that in order to turn the cylinder as the hammer is cocked.
Just roll the cylinder when taking it out or putting it back.
 
I've been getting it in and out by doing the rolling action it's just kind of tough. It has been getting easier and I have done a little stoning on the hard bearing areas. I was suprised at how close the tolerances are on this gun. I hope to get out and shoot it soon.
 
You can pull the hammer back just enough for it to clear. The bolt and hand will both be retracted and the cylinder will fall in or out from either side.
 
Sometimes the cylinder is easier to move in or out when the hammer is about midway between being fulling down and the 1/2 cock position.
I'll begin with the hammer fully down and then begin to move it as it's being slightly cocked.
 
Others will disagree, but I recommend going to half cock to insert or remove the cylinder. It will drop out and roll in with practice, and will be easier when you break it in with shooting. At half cock you don't have to figure on whether the bolt is fully retracted or not. If it isn't, you can scratch the cylinder on the bolt unless you hit that sweet spot. It's never happened to hawg and others but I know it has happened to me and few others that I know. So YMMV.
 
Well thanks to everyone for thier help and now that I am educated and have done many practice runs things flow like water. It also appears that some hard edges also needed broken in. I have to say this is one nice gun. I have everythng to shoot it now and plan on taking it out this coming weekend. This week I will be ordering a R&D 45 Colt cylinder which was my intent to do from the begining when I ordered the gun. Just a question to those who shoot the Remingtons do you use three fingers or two fingers on the front strap? I've always shot Colt sytle grips with a pinky under hold and feel like this type of grip will work well with the same hold.
 
Getting a cylinder in and out of a Remington is like an art. Someone mentioned the sweet spot. That's true. About half way between 1/2 and full cock, the cylinder will just drop out into your hands. I've had my gun for 13 years, so I know exactly were that spot is. BUT, I screwed up a cylinder with bolt scratches before I got there. The key is, don't force anything, just feel the cylinder start to give as you pull back the hammer.
 
It will do it a lot sooner than that. Once you pull the hammer back far enough for the nose to clear the cylinder it will fall in or out.
 
It's easier to put the cylinder in, because you can thumb the hammer back and watch the hand and bolt retract. Then you know you got the ' sweet spot' . Then hold the hammer still and roll in the cylinder, making sure there's a bolt stop above the bolt. The hard part is remembering exactly how far back the hammer was when you put the cylinder in, so you hit the same spot taking it out. for my Remington, it's just before half-cock. And depending which variation you have, it could be different.
 
Man that sucks. I'd be bent too if I'd done that to mine. I've done all mine that way and never scratched one but I'll shutup about it.
 
Wow! noelf2 that dose suck. It takes a little getting use to I been doing it a good while now and every once an a while I still get hung up. don't beat yourself up about it though. :)
 
Oh I don't beat myself up about it. I use that cylinder a lot. Those scratches happened when I was a novice many years ago. Trying the quick cylinder swap and such. I have 3 other 1858 remmies and none of the other cylinders are scratched at all, or their spare cylinders or the couple of R&D cylinders that I use. I can remove cylinders like hawg without scratching them up. I just don't do it generally, or recommend it to a novice. I plan to age that scratched up cylinder to match a faux aged remmi.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top