Two Revolver Questions!

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defjon

New member
Hi everyone, I need two questions about some wheel guns answered and I figured here would be the best place to go.

My first question is about a SW model 66 with 4' barrel. It doesn't have the whole lug barrel thing, but it is a .357 magnum. I've read that unless the barrel is full lug like the 686, then the gun is prone to breaking down or damage. But, this frame IS a .357, so why would its designated caliber put unnecessary wear on the frame or barrel? Can a Smith mod 66 handle a steady diet of .357? Also, can they shoot +p 38s?

My other question is about a Colt Trooper MIII .357. I know its out of production, so does that mean its value will raise over the years? Can it handle +p .38's?

Oh, and I was also wondering if the .357 loses any of its potency when coming out of a 2'' barrel...( was also thinking about a stainless rossi 462..)


Thanks!

Jon
 
Well, there are other places where you can get better advice, but we look better!

66: It's not prone to damage. You have to shoot ALOT of hot 125gr 357 mags to crack your forcing cone or burn your top strap thin. A box of 50 a month won't tear up your 66. Mine has gone through that for two years now and is perfectly sound.

As far as S&W vs Ruger, Smiths feel better in the hand esp the K frames. If you are a handloader who likes to push things a tad, then step up to a 686 or a GP-100.

I have no opinion on single action Rugers outside of they are a pain to load and unload.

All 357s will handle 38+Ps fine. 38+Ps are between 38s and 357s in power.

Colt Trooper: A Colt revolver is always a good thing.

A short bbl 357 will kick more, see if you can a 3". It's a good trade off between handiness and controllability.
 
"so why would its designated caliber put unnecessary wear on the frame or barrel? Can a Smith mod 66 handle a steady diet of .357?"

Any gun, with our without underlug and regardless of frame size, will wear more shooting heavy mags compared to lighter loads. However, a 66 will last a lot longer than most shooters will put thru them. I've got one of the early 66s (66-nothing with stainless rear sight and no front insert). I've run several thousand rds of factory 158 gr W-W and Rem .357 and I couldn't begin to guess how many rds of some pretty hot handloads and bunches of .38. It's still tight and will shoot better than I can shoot it.


"Also, can they shoot +p 38s?"

Absolutely.


'"My other question is about a Colt Trooper MIII .357. I know its out of production, so does that mean its value will raise over the years? "

One never really knows which guns will go up substantially in price. Depends on if enough people get a wild hair for a certain make/model. However, I don't see the MIII prices going thru the roof. There were quite a few made, they haven't been out of production all that long, and they aren't really a unique gun. They're a pretty decent gun, great shooter but they're not something exceptional that would draw a lot of collector interest at this time.


"Can it handle +p .38's?"

Absolutely.


"Oh, and I was also wondering if the .357 loses any of its potency when coming out of a 2'' barrel"

Sure, when compared to longer handgun barrel lengths. That's pretty common with any caliber. Longer barrels burn more of the powder which increases the velocity. You'll hear supposed experts claim if you're going to shoot .357 out of a short barrel then you might as well shoot .38s. They will proclaim that the .357 loses velocity to equal a .38. They compare the velocity of the .357 out of a 2" barrel compared to published velocities for a .38 which may be out of a 4", 6" or non-vented barrel. What they don't understand is the .38 also loses velocity in a short barrel. So while the .357 isn't clocking what it would out of a 6" barrel, neither does the .38.
 
Given a choice, I buy Colts. You don't find many cheap. I like Colt revolvers. S&W M66 will hold up for many years. They both handle 158 and 180 gr 357 Magnum loads well. The 38 Special +P is fine in both as they are 357 Magnum revolvers. It is easy to buff and polish a stainless steel revolver and make it look great. The use of Flitz every once in awhile will keep things shining bright. Flitz will work on nickel finishes also. If the Trooper is blued, you are limited in options. A 4" S&W M66 is a fairly common and boringly reliable revolver.
 
I think you're confused & missing part of the equation.
The presence or absence of a full underlug in itself has no bearing on a revolver's longevity. I think what you're talking about is the full underlug that was introduced on the larger L-framed guns. Those guns were built to take a longer run with hotter magnum loads than the 66s.
So, yes, a Smith .357 with a full underlug should outlast a 66 without one, but it's because the full underlugs are on the L frames which are beefier, not because of the barrel lug. The 19s & 66s were not intended to be shot a whole bunch with full power .357 loads.

The Mark IIIs will rise in value, like just about every gun that still shoots, eventually, but I don't think it'll ever have the collectibility of other Colt models. It can easily handle .38 +Ps.

The .357 loses quite a bit of its potency in a two-inch barrel, but is still soupier than a .38 in the same barrel length.
Denis
 
So, would you guys say to go with the SW 66 Stainless, or the Colt Trooper M3 blue? The price difference is $50...(which is a lot to me)
 
The Colt is a beefier gun, the Smith would probably have a better support network in parts & service.
Leather is more common for the Smith.
Up to you.
Denis
 
If you want to shoot it a lot, get the S&W.
If you hope to get appreciation on your investment, get the Colt.
If you want to get more appreciation on your investment, but the right commodity and know when to sell it.
 
So, would you guys say to go with the SW 66 Stainless, or the Colt Trooper M3 blue?
Click to expand...
Which feels the best in your hand? The Colt is stronger, but the S&W has a bigger support base (accessories). Most people would go with brand loyalty as they are equal service revolvers.
 
If $50 means a lot, go with the less expensive one, period. They'll both work fine. Don't worry about the Colt being an "investment." Shoot it! I shoot mine (King Cobra actually). Actually, both Colts and Smiths (pre-ILS, pre-MIM) seem to be appreciating slightly.
 
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