Turkish mauser rebarrel

B

bamafan4life

New member
Hi im confused about rebarreling my turkish mauser m38. its the large ring action with the small ring threads. im planning on using a adams and bennet short chamberd barrel in 6.5 swedish. but ive heard something about the turk has a wierd torque shoulder? what does this mean? will i have to do modification to the barrel?
 
Weird torque shoulder? I don't see anything in photos, but I never have had a Turk to play with, so I can't be sure?

A web search found this table of Turk and Swede measurements. They look to me like the Swedes are very consistent and the Turks have a lot of scatter. It would take a random sample of at least 30 to know if they are really different on average? Averaging the small number of used Turk barrel samples given just doesn't offer enough confidence that the result is representative of their overall average. Better just to buy a depth micrometer, if you don't have one, and figure on measuring your particular copy to set the barrel shoulder and barrel end.

The same guy made this torque shoulder lap. He then used it in part of his building process. In your shoes I would do about that same thing, but if I were building a match rifle, like the fellow who put those pages together, I would first turn a bolt tunnel mandrel and true the receiver threads and square the front of the receiver. If you are not planning a high precision product, you can skip that, but the lapping of the recoil shoulder still looks like something to ensure even spacing. I had a m.98 that had distorted almost three thousandths either side of the slot in the recoil shoulder, and had to resort to a grinding setup to clean it. Bloody nuisance.
 
Yea steve wagner is where i found that. so what hes saying is that you can not just screw on a short chamberd small ring barrel (of course ull have to do headspace and lap locking lugs and everything.) wow the turk sounds like a bad choice to rebarrel for the gun smith without a lathe. maybe i should just keep it in 8mm.
 
Bamafanforlife, The Turk 38 is similar in design to the 98, the barrel seats on the face of the barrel first then on the shoulder at the end of the threads, When measuring the receiver measure from the bolt face to to the barrel seating ring first then measure the distance from the front receiver ring down to the seating ring to verify the shoulder at the end of the threads will not contact first, the shoulder should not hit the front receiver ring before the barrels bottoms out.

Case head protrusion must be measured and compared with the distance from the barrel seating ring to the face of the bolt, this measurement does not vary more than .110 +or - a very few thousands.

I have two Turk 38s that are chambered in 8/06, I have two that will be 6.5X55 in time.

Torque ring? The barrel will bottom out when screwed in to the receiver, when the face of the barrels hits something that something is what some could call a torque ring, others call it the 'C' ring, it is a 'C' because it has a cut through the ring for the extractor, all other receivers are pope collars and or joints, the other barrels seat on the shoulder at the end of the threads, The Mauser has both the shoulder and 'C' ring, in the perfect world, the barrel face hits the 'C' ring first by as little as .003 thousands. I bottom out the barrel first then check the gap between the barrel shoulder front receiver ring with a feeler gage to make sure the shoulder does not hit first.

F. Guffey
 
about 'that'

lap the lugs, lathe, bad choice? there are a lot of cute sayings like using barrels for tomato stakes, a barrel can be used to make a good chamber gage and a tool for lapping lugs. I went over to assist a friend that was behind, he was building 20 rifles using Turk complete actions, he barreled them in 6.5X55 and 7X57, he does outstanding work.



F. Guffey
 
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