Stainless pins take 6-8 hours to clean/remove soot as well as 20-30 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner. Benefit of SS pins is a bit more "shine."
30 minutes in a rotary/vibratory tumbler is more than sufficient to clean cases--they just aren't soot-free (but that is not a requirement, just a "want").
I fill my Thumler's Tumbler a bit over half full with 20/40 corn (no additional enhancers), and the deprimed cases are more than clean enough.
Case Cleaning
Without a doubt the least important and most talked about part of reloading.
1) All that is needed is to wipe off the outside of the case with a rag, unless shooting black powder. All you need to do is remove any dirt/grit from the case exterior so the sizing die isn't damaged.
2) 30 minutes with 20/40 corn will clean and polish the case exterior and remove some of the interior soot. If you deprime first, you will remove the residual white powder sometimes left in the primer pocket. You can get a nice vibratory cleaner for about $86 and a media separator for about $37.
For very dirty cases with dried mud or whatever, ground nut hulls work well--but they also produce a lot of dust that can pack inside a case and take a lot of elbow grease to remove. Some folks like to add an abrasive to polish the brass (jeweler's rouge or Nu-Finish) and some like to add mineral spirits and paper towel/used softener sheets to the media to remove some of the powder. Corn doesn't produce much powder.
3) 20-30 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner, using hot water/Dawn/citric acid will completely remove the soot and give the brass a slight polish. You will need to rinse the cases and let air dry. Some go as far as to dry the cases and then tumble them for more polish.
4) 6-8 hours with a rotary tumbler, stainless steel pins, dawn, and citric acid will completely clean and polish the cases. The pins have to be separated from the cases and the cases need to be rinsed and air dried. It is best to pour off as much of the dirty solution as possible and add enough water and pour off to get the solution clear. Then you need to have a media separator with a tub/bucket full of water to get the pins to fall out from the cases. From my experience, folks in CA may not want to waste that much water.
Everything beyond step #1 is done for the reloader's pleasure and not for any need.
I prefer #2, as #1 hurts my arthritis and the rest take more time/money--though I have the equipment for all four.
Between #3 and #4, it depends. The cost of a good ultrasonic cleaner (I bought the Lyman Turbo Sonic 6000 Ultrasonic Case Cleaner at $281 as it has a drain to empty the tank and can handle a large number of cases or a gun or two) and a rotary tumbler (I use the Thumler’s Tumbler Model B at $191 and my RCBS Rotary Case and Media Separator at $37).
If you simply have to have really shiny brass, forget the US system and go with the stainless pins--but be ready for a LOT longer time for cleaning and a lot more water usage.
I got the US cleaner to clean guns, but I just can't bring myself to drop my guns into a water tank--keep thinking I'll leave some water in a crevice and then my guns will rust.
The Thumler’s Tumbler I have had for about 35 years.
For all methods, I prefer to decap first. The use of 20/40 grit keeps any media from packing in the flash hole or primer pocket.