Tumblers

Bucksnort1

New member
Yesterday, I was tumbling some brass in crushed walnut shells impregnated with jeweler's rouge. While watching the media do its thing, I added a little powdered rouge. Immediately, the media began moving much faster in the tumbler. I guess rouge acts as a lubricant. With the medial moving faster, the cases also move faster cleaning them quicker.
 
Jeweler's rouge is very fine, so yes it acts like a lubricant, graphite would do the same thing.

Jim
 
I have some walnut shells that are maybe 25yrs. old. I cleaned my walnut shells in a bucket of hot water and dawn soap. I rinsed it two or three times and dried it out completely in front of a fan. It seamed to restore the shells that were pretty dirty when I started cleaning them. The dry lube sounds like a good idea also.
 
Machinist,

A few weeks ago, I added some commercially made liquid for tumblers but it caused the media to clump and stick to the cases (probably used too much). Do you have this problem with the soap?

I can't tell you how much rouge to add because the rouge I bought was from a seller on eBay, a few years ago. There were no instructions in the package. I probably added a bit more than necessary but I do like the way it makes the media move around and the result on cases. I also use a sonic cleaner but now that I've resurrected my tumbler, I like the outcome.

May I assume you are a machinist, one who works with lathes and such? I was in Bristol, England in 2002 for the Air Force Reserve. One night, I was in a pub talking to a big burly dude who said he is a machinist. It took me a while to realize a machinist in the UK is a heavy equipment operator.
 
I read on a post, that by putting a piece of paper towel and letting it run in the media, the fouling will stick to the paper. sounds like it would work, I'm going to give it a try this week comming up after shooting.
 
CW, The paper towel will probably work. I paid a couple of bucks from an eBay seller, a number of years ago, who advised placing used dryer sheets in your media. I'm not sure why used and not new but it works.
 
How much more work, if any, if the liquid tumbler, compared to the walnut tumblers? I subscribe to the 'least effort' method of reloading.
 
How much more work, if any, if the liquid tumbler, compared to the walnut tumblers? I subscribe to the 'least effort' method of reloading.

I wouldn't say it's more work, just a different process, MUCH cleaner and even quicker imo. I use both but since I got my rotary tumbler my vibratory is delegated to just pre-cleaning very dirty brass that I don't want to run through the die, then off to deprime and then into the rotary for a good cleaning for an hour or two.

Not saying it is better but I just like the way the brass looks after being wet-tumbled and I can do it in the house and not have to take it outside since there is no dust. What impressed me the most is that the brass looks like new again inside and out. I can achieve better results in 3 hrs (cleaned, dried, stored) than what used to take me overnight in the vibratory.

Actually I consider the rotary method less work because my grandaughter likes doing it so much that I let her do it and I don't have to do a thing.:)
 
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Keybear, good question. I have a Frankford Arsenal vibratory brass cleaner. I guess a tumbler would be one that looks like something used for polishing rocks.
 
They are both called tumblers in the hobby. There are dry vibrating tumblers and wet rotating tumblers.

Tumbling wet it's common to add dawn liquid and Lemishine to the stainless steel pin media. It is fast cleaning, makes bling that makes your eyes hurt looking at it, inside and out....even the primer pockets. But it requires rinsing in clean water, and a drying stage. I usually roll in old bath towels then lay them on cookie sheets in the sun for a few hours. Others get more elaborate with ovens or dryers. Winter time means an oven at 150 degrees for an hour. Warning! Stainless steeled bling is addictive!

Tumbling dry, takes a few more hours and doesn't clean as brite as wet, nor much at all inside and in primer pockets, but plenty good for most. I start a batch in the morning before work, and retrieve it at 5 when I get home. I don't care for the nut shells as it's too scratchy course for me. It gets it very clean, but don't expect new-like gloss. I prefer to use 20-40 corn cob, which consists of particles too small to get stuck in flash holes. I add a cap full of Dillon polish to give me the near-new brass look, and 1" squares of used dryer sheets to keep the media clean. I replace the sheets with every batch. Others use car polish the same way....don't use polish with Ammonia.

You are going to need a separator with both wet & dry methods to separate the brass from the media. Stainless steel media (for wet) can be bought non magnetic or magnetic.....get the magnetic.....and a good magnet to transfer media easily.

BTW, I found that corncob makes brass a little easier to size. It seems to have a slick nature to it. Tumbling wet is just the opposite. It is so squeaky clean that it is harder to size. (the best lube and careful lubing is advised).

A favorite use for dry tumbling is to remove case lube from sized brass. That takes about a 15 or 20 minute run in clean straight corn cob. A wall switch to plug timer is a good investment if you tumble.
 
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GWS I dry Tumble with a very fine walnut and mix corn cob in about 50/50 .
it works great . I started a batch last night at 10 PM went out this morning and unplug it . The brass (327 federal Mag) looks very nice even the primer pockets are clean . My Walnut is fine like course sand and I use a Thumler,s Tumbler . I have my loading stuff in an out building and no water . I would need to carry the brass to my house a good 75 yards That and my wife would have a cow . I loaded the brass I did last night no drying or mess .

It really looks like a lot of added work to wet tumble maybe not ?
 
Not a lot of work.... some .... But that's compared to NO work to leave the tumbler running for 8 hours. It takes way more time to dry tumble to get even near the shine, but you just watch....or not!:)

If you don't want to spend 30 minutes extra and are willing to settle for clean but no eye candy gleam....then dry will do it for you just fine. But when you finish your first successful wet batch....you just can't take the grin of your face.:D

It's really very little work to dump the water.....stick the hose in and rinse once, then dump the whole thing in the same separator you use for dry. the Pins are heavy so they separate with about the same # of turns as for dry. Once separated I don't worry about the pins....they dry on their own.

I just lay a big beach towel on the carpet, pour the separated brass on it, fold the ends over and knead for maybe a minute or 2. No, the carpet doesn't get wet. Then the brass is poured on the cookie sheets (my wife got them for me from garage sales) and the sheets are carried to the back patio and layed out in the sun. that's it. This is the result:

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You might try using just corncob sometime.....or use walnut first to clean then do it a second time in corncob for gleam. I think you will find it more buffed. Like comparing 100 grit sandpaper to 400 grit sandpaper. If they made sandpaper with both 100 and 400 grit in the same sheet, you will still get 100 grit scratches in the work you are sanding......so they don't. so 100 then 220....then 400.....then 600. You get the picture. Brass is already smooth like 400, so walnut roughs it up and you get a clean semi-gloss gleam.
 
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But when you finish your first successful wet batch....you just can't take the grin of your face.

I agree 100%

When I dumped my first batch of wet tumbled brass, I must have looked like a kid on Christmas morning, including running up to show the wife. I think I even turned to my old trusty vibratory tumbler and said "SEE YA!".;)
 
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